Jedev

iTrader: (2)

Search for part# HPI Z449

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

those are 2.5x12mm screws. The losi are 2.6x10mm, will that be an issue?

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

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dirty_rooster

iTrader: (7)

This is what i did to prevent any leaks in the diff.

Items used:

APE bushing and shims
Protek 2.5x10mm countersunk screws
Noleen sf-3 (green slime)
HD diff cases
Diff oring from rebuild kit

I bought the truck used and opened them up to find that I had two dry diff's and one half filled. They were built with HD cases.... the stock shims had deformed into oval bowls which was probably why my fluid leaked out.

I started out the rebuild by diping the oring into the green slim and placed it into the insert in the HD cases. Then I moved onto the shim and wiped a little green slim grease on the side of the shim that contacts the oring. I then dip the planetary gear side of the out drives and just slip it in and out of the HD case to lube and seal any gaps up. Do the same for the other out drive then proceed with the pin install. Use the ape shim and the bushings then fill the diff up but not all the way up. Leave room so you can place the other planetary gear without overflowing the diff fluid. I find that if you over fill and you begin to screw on the top the pressure will push out the green slim and you will jonlonger have that seal. I used the protwk screws and they work just fine no stripping. After you seal up the diff check to see if you see and diff fluid pushed out or leaked out. If so you over filled the diff with fluid and have to restart and reseal it with green slime. Doing so should net you with a leak free diff for a very long time.

maddog9

iTrader: (30)

I would sand down the pumpkin side to take off any burrs on the diff case. Make sure you put some grease on the grooves of the out the outdrive cups and make sure your o-rings are fully seated. Easiest way to get a consistent fill and this is how ryan lutz does it....fill the diff up with your oil with the bottom gear in and your 4 spider gears(make note that you DO NOT have shims in the spider gear assembly) fill it to top of the spider gears and place the top gear on and the oil should bleed through the top gear and you simply wipe across the backside of your top gear then place your top on with your gasket in place. For the screws get a MIP wrench and start to screw them down almost in a cross pattern.

Frank L

iTrader: (148)

Looks about the same as the truck above it.

vito

dose the wheel wells look line up the body is a tad back.

Frank L

iTrader: (148)

The 2.5x12 screws work well just remember thay are a tiny screw and don't over tighten them.

tekinACE

Just make sure the front of the body is behind the front bumper if not the body wont last long. The wheels make it look like it should move forward but you need to keep it behind the bumper.

vito

thanks

Grandturk

iTrader: (5)

What body is that? It's pretty cool looking.

Sierrahotel

looks like hpi skorpion body.

mxgregg

iTrader: (32)

Yes it is. It's really wide and no issues rubbing.

XXXDad

iTrader: (198)

Check out my Sale of 17mm hex and Rims upgrade your 1.0-2.0 to 17mm hex
you can also run buggy rims for practice or make the ultimate lightweight 1/8 scale

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...tors-rims.html

tbills66

Proper way to rebuild diffs. I followed this procedure and have had zero issues with the diffs leaking.
http://losiracing.blogspot.com/2013/...uild-tips.html