Jpdanger

I tried a setup very similar to your with the exception of using AE oils 35wt front and 25wt rear, 49gr of weight centered behind the motor assembly, rear hole on the steering rack, and a 2mm spacer under the spindle steering link.

For the most part, the car was glued to the track on power, but still broke loose braking.

Next, I moved the the ESC on top of the battery (LCG taped in) and this really settled down the rear end. Car had a slight push, but the rear end wanted to "wander" under medium braking.

Skinny_j

iTrader: (17)

Tony newland has my back. Schumacher couldnt have a better gut to represent and support them. I made a discount order anyways because i needed a few spares.

Skinny_j

iTrader: (17)

One thing i was thinking about is instead of adding 50g to the center rear of the chassis. What about trying to add 25g to each rear corner. With the weight in the center it wouldnt seem to me that there would be much side to side transfer

Tony Newland

iTrader: (53)

Weight in the center effects forward bite more than anything...placing it on the sides will add side bite

No sweat Jake

motorcitymatt

iTrader: (3)

Interesting indeed.....

At first glance I thought there must have been a mistake when I saw he was running the front end that soft (White springs and 1.6mm pistons). The car should be a handful off-power going into the turn. But then I noticed they stood the front shocks all the way up. That's going to firm up the front big time. But given the light-ish oil and larger holes in the pistons I cannot see how this setup wouldn't make the car super twitchy. Going to 5 degree castor blocks and a longer front camber link as seen in the setup may be there to deal with that. But let's face it, Michal is insanely talented and I am betting he can drive a twitchy car without too much difficulty whereas most of us might find it hard to handle.

What I am seeing here is basically a different way to skin the cat (pun intended) compared to what I am doing with the rear roll center to keep the back locked in off-power. Michal's setup will be better on power out of the corner because they maintained the higher roll center. I'll try this out next time I am at the track and see if I can handle the twitch factor.

Skinny_j

iTrader: (17)

Got my roller finished up for the most part last night. Just have to install electronics and put a base setup on it. I thought the stock ball cups were really sloppy so i wound up putting b5 stuff on it. Im pretty happy with how it came out!

MelKF2

Look's sweet my friend! Glad to see a picture without the electronic's installed. Is there room for the ESC on the right rear? P.S. Nice choice of motor! 😈

Skinny_j

iTrader: (17)

Thanks! Im going to be running an lrp flow and as it sits i cant fit it behind the motor but just barely. If it were a tiny bit smaller it would fit though. With a little trimming i might be able to get it to fit. Im going to run it up front for now. Im making some tungsten nuts at work today to add weight to the rear corners if needed. They will just screw into the rear sidepod holes. I might get creative later on and try to get the esc behind the motor.

motorcitymatt

iTrader: (3)

Nothing like a freshly built kitty

I really like your use of the Associated ball cups, especially the offset ones on the front camber link. Clever!

I have not enjoyed the sloppiness of the stock ball cups either and it gets worse after some track time. I ended up going with the Lunsford Super Duty cups that Tony uses and they are almost as good as the AE ones you have. The ones I have run on my B5M still have zero slop or binding after a lot of racing. Impressive.

davetamiya

I ran the MM setup last night on a carpet track with wooden jumps and one polished floor hairpin.

Car setup remained the same as my shorty lg setup and the biggest difference I noticed was the reduction in tire wear due to the improved forward bite. Car was a tad slower than previous, 0.3 sec, but nothing that can't be improved. No issues with handling or spinning out, just need a bit more side bite.

Riverbluff

The viper VTX will fit behind the motor on the right side if you trim the LiPo mount flang off of the plactic side pod.

Tony Newland

iTrader: (53)

Ya the ball cup thing has been evolution over the last few years... original complaints came through that they were too tight and bound up the suspension, so the factory has responded and made them bigger... and here we are lol

There is no real perfect setup... but bigger is always better, more surface area so they dont wear, and can be ran looser for longer without the penalty of being too loose...

Looks good Jake... maybe Ill see you saturday

leongkc

iTrader: (9)

Agreed.
The slop is good.

motorcitymatt

iTrader: (3)

I got a little time on the track this afternoon to try out the setup Schumacher posted of Orlowski's car. Like I said before, I was surprised by the way they had the front shocks all the way out on the tower, especially after seeing some of the photos of his car at the event where they were not set up this way. I can only conclude that this is where they ended up setup-wise by the end of the event.

I tried to replicate the setup exactly as a starting point but had to drift slightly because I do not have the parts on hand. Here are the exceptions:

• Slightly heavier oils (450/350 instead of 350/300)
• Red springs in front instead of white
• Kit 1.5mm front pistons instead of 1.6mm
• Kit front arms instead of the medium flex front arms
• Kit 50.5mm front camber link instead of 42.5mm alloy
• Cougar KR CVD shafts instead of MIP shiny/pucks
• No weight under the battery

You guys, the car was DIALED. I could drive the snot out of it all around the track and it was glued. Even in sections of the track that were still slippery from watering I was still hanging on. There was so much forward bite that I was getting tire slap under hard acceleration. I had so much confidence in the car I found myself driving it way too hard and my best times were right there with the B5M even though it felt like I was going way faster. Funny how that happens....

If I had more time I would have transitioned to this setup from what I had bit by bit instead of wholesale so I could learn how what changes had the most impact. But I am pretty sure that the front shocks standing up like that is keeping the weight from transferring, which was making the car so loose off power before.

But for those of you out there who are looking at this MM conversion with a bit of skepticism I think you can safely lay it aside. As suspected, with the main design issue of the motor position solved the car can be tuned to excel on lower grip surfaces. I have attached the setup I used today for those who may be running on similar tracks/surfaces.

leongkc

iTrader: (9)

I'm thinking, is a LCG battery really necessary?