Losi 8ight building and setup
08-03-2008, 11:48 PM
#7546
Ive run into a problem with my flywheel/collet/clutch. Im running a V-spec in my 8ight.
And i set my clutch up in this order: Collet > shim > rear bearing > bell > front bearing > shim > spacer > flat head screw.
Now its been running fine until today when i took it down to the local sports oval to realy open it up to finish break in, it got through about a tank then the fly wheel started to slip on the crank and i thought ok its just a lose clutch nut... no problem, ill go home and tighten it.
Well after getting the flywheel off there was a heap of fine gold shavings all over the front engine bearing and the rear of the flywheel so it looks like the collet has shaved down and is now not big enough to tighten the flywheel down onto, the nut runs out of thread.
Where did i go wrong for this to happen, it must of been they way i built the clutch, was i supposed to use the washer before the collet with the V-spec? because the bell had perfect end play without it with the way i built the clutch as stated above and i though they just included that for some engines that use a different length shaft.
Alot of people run V-spec's in 8ights, what order are people building their clutches in?
I can maybe get around the problem if i now use the washer before the collet(will then give the collet enough length) and play around with the shimming, but where did i go wrong?
Much thanks for any advice.
And i set my clutch up in this order: Collet > shim > rear bearing > bell > front bearing > shim > spacer > flat head screw.
Now its been running fine until today when i took it down to the local sports oval to realy open it up to finish break in, it got through about a tank then the fly wheel started to slip on the crank and i thought ok its just a lose clutch nut... no problem, ill go home and tighten it.
Well after getting the flywheel off there was a heap of fine gold shavings all over the front engine bearing and the rear of the flywheel so it looks like the collet has shaved down and is now not big enough to tighten the flywheel down onto, the nut runs out of thread.
Where did i go wrong for this to happen, it must of been they way i built the clutch, was i supposed to use the washer before the collet with the V-spec? because the bell had perfect end play without it with the way i built the clutch as stated above and i though they just included that for some engines that use a different length shaft.
Alot of people run V-spec's in 8ights, what order are people building their clutches in?
I can maybe get around the problem if i now use the washer before the collet(will then give the collet enough length) and play around with the shimming, but where did i go wrong?
Much thanks for any advice.
You are using the LOSI provided collet right and NOT the OS one right ??
As that is very likely your problem if thats the case and no matter how tight you do it up or how much locite you use, it wont be right without a LOSI collet.
Again sorry if this has been covered , seemed to obvious
Rod
08-04-2008, 02:35 AM
#7548
Tech Apprentice
Ive run into a problem with my flywheel/collet/clutch. Im running a V-spec in my 8ight.
And i set my clutch up in this order: Collet > shim > rear bearing > bell > front bearing > shim > spacer > flat head screw.
Now its been running fine until today when i took it down to the local sports oval to realy open it up to finish break in, it got through about a tank then the fly wheel started to slip on the crank and i thought ok its just a lose clutch nut... no problem, ill go home and tighten it.
Well after getting the flywheel off there was a heap of fine gold shavings all over the front engine bearing and the rear of the flywheel so it looks like the collet has shaved down and is now not big enough to tighten the flywheel down onto, the nut runs out of thread.
Where did i go wrong for this to happen, it must of been they way i built the clutch, was i supposed to use the washer before the collet with the V-spec? because the bell had perfect end play without it with the way i built the clutch as stated above and i though they just included that for some engines that use a different length shaft.
Alot of people run V-spec's in 8ights, what order are people building their clutches in?
I can maybe get around the problem if i now use the washer before the collet(will then give the collet enough length) and play around with the shimming, but where did i go wrong?
Much thanks for any advice.
And i set my clutch up in this order: Collet > shim > rear bearing > bell > front bearing > shim > spacer > flat head screw.
Now its been running fine until today when i took it down to the local sports oval to realy open it up to finish break in, it got through about a tank then the fly wheel started to slip on the crank and i thought ok its just a lose clutch nut... no problem, ill go home and tighten it.
Well after getting the flywheel off there was a heap of fine gold shavings all over the front engine bearing and the rear of the flywheel so it looks like the collet has shaved down and is now not big enough to tighten the flywheel down onto, the nut runs out of thread.
Where did i go wrong for this to happen, it must of been they way i built the clutch, was i supposed to use the washer before the collet with the V-spec? because the bell had perfect end play without it with the way i built the clutch as stated above and i though they just included that for some engines that use a different length shaft.
Alot of people run V-spec's in 8ights, what order are people building their clutches in?
I can maybe get around the problem if i now use the washer before the collet(will then give the collet enough length) and play around with the shimming, but where did i go wrong?
Much thanks for any advice.
08-04-2008, 02:51 AM
#7549
From what I've seen, almost all diff fluids are the same - measured in cSt (centistokes). They may vary a little, but I've yet to see one brand be totally different.
Now, Shock fluid is another tale all together. Some are measured in cTs, while others are "weight". Many times a 35wt will actually be 250cTs. Very strange how that's done.
But it appears there's more of a standard in the diff fluids. Then again, I've only messed with a few brands....
08-04-2008, 05:07 AM
#7550
Tech Adept
I don't think it's been asked, or mentioned previously. If someone has sorry.
You are using the LOSI provided collet right and NOT the OS one right ??
As that is very likely your problem if thats the case and no matter how tight you do it up or how much locite you use, it wont be right without a LOSI collet.
Again sorry if this has been covered , seemed to obvious
Rod
You are using the LOSI provided collet right and NOT the OS one right ??
As that is very likely your problem if thats the case and no matter how tight you do it up or how much locite you use, it wont be right without a LOSI collet.
Again sorry if this has been covered , seemed to obvious
Rod
cheers.
08-04-2008, 11:46 AM
#7551
Tech Initiate
clutch shoe wear rates.
Hi Guys,
Thanks to all your help previously I solved my problem of clutch bearings failing. CHEERS
Anyway I have been getting low run times with my clutch shoes before they are worn out. I have been running 2 ally, 2 carbon, standard losi shoes with green springs on carbon & gold on alloy. Last week I managed to get a max of 2 hrs racing and they are worn out complete. I had a look at inside of clutchbell (14T) and its quite rough,
So my questions what tips and times do you achieve.
I have now got a new LOSI 14T clutchbell, 2 KHZ 7075 hard Alum shoes & 2 Dynamite Max Life Alum Shoes to try to see if this gives any better life.
What spring setups would you recommend.
Do you do any maintenance between races i.e. sand down the inner clutch bell to make nice and smooth again as new.
CheerS
Thanks to all your help previously I solved my problem of clutch bearings failing. CHEERS
Anyway I have been getting low run times with my clutch shoes before they are worn out. I have been running 2 ally, 2 carbon, standard losi shoes with green springs on carbon & gold on alloy. Last week I managed to get a max of 2 hrs racing and they are worn out complete. I had a look at inside of clutchbell (14T) and its quite rough,
So my questions what tips and times do you achieve.
I have now got a new LOSI 14T clutchbell, 2 KHZ 7075 hard Alum shoes & 2 Dynamite Max Life Alum Shoes to try to see if this gives any better life.
What spring setups would you recommend.
Do you do any maintenance between races i.e. sand down the inner clutch bell to make nice and smooth again as new.
CheerS
08-04-2008, 12:36 PM
#7552
first off : start by getting a 13t bell, it will be easier on the clutch
second, make sure to maintenance your clutch regularly. Filing the edges at a 45 and using some scotch brite on the inside of the bell and the top of the shoes goes a long way to longer clutch life. If the inside of your clutchbell is rough, and cant be fixed with scotch-brite, its time for a new one.
i always maintenance my clutch before i go to the races, and again before the main.. some would say its overkill but it only takes 5 minutes.
second, make sure to maintenance your clutch regularly. Filing the edges at a 45 and using some scotch brite on the inside of the bell and the top of the shoes goes a long way to longer clutch life. If the inside of your clutchbell is rough, and cant be fixed with scotch-brite, its time for a new one.
i always maintenance my clutch before i go to the races, and again before the main.. some would say its overkill but it only takes 5 minutes.
08-04-2008, 12:40 PM
#7553
first off : start by getting a 13t bell, it will be easier on the clutch
second, make sure to maintenance your clutch regularly. Filing the edges at a 45 and using some scotch brite on the inside of the bell and the top of the shoes goes a long way to longer clutch life. If the inside of your clutchbell is rough, and cant be fixed with scotch-brite, its time for a new one.
i always maintenance my clutch before i go to the races, and again before the main.. some would say its overkill but it only takes 5 minutes.
second, make sure to maintenance your clutch regularly. Filing the edges at a 45 and using some scotch brite on the inside of the bell and the top of the shoes goes a long way to longer clutch life. If the inside of your clutchbell is rough, and cant be fixed with scotch-brite, its time for a new one.
i always maintenance my clutch before i go to the races, and again before the main.. some would say its overkill but it only takes 5 minutes.
Actually you can clean up the clutch bell pretty dang good with a dremel with a drum sander .
08-04-2008, 02:00 PM
#7554
X2...done it Many of times....and works like a charm...go in steps tho.....and pending on How bad the shoe's slagged out or if the springs were dragging then its time for a new bell.
08-04-2008, 02:30 PM
#7555
Tech Initiate
Thanks for the tips so far.
I will fit the new clutch bell and shoes, any tips on springs to use.
2 KHX ALUM Hard
2 Dynamite Max Life ALUM
I've got a quick change mount so will pull the clutchbell off after qualifiers and Scotchbrite or Sand the inner surface to keep it nice and smooth,
What length of time do you guys get before your shoes are worn down???
Thanks
I will fit the new clutch bell and shoes, any tips on springs to use.
2 KHX ALUM Hard
2 Dynamite Max Life ALUM
I've got a quick change mount so will pull the clutchbell off after qualifiers and Scotchbrite or Sand the inner surface to keep it nice and smooth,
What length of time do you guys get before your shoes are worn down???
Thanks
08-04-2008, 02:31 PM
#7556
Hi Guys,
Thanks to all your help previously I solved my problem of clutch bearings failing. CHEERS
Anyway I have been getting low run times with my clutch shoes before they are worn out. I have been running 2 ally, 2 carbon, standard losi shoes with green springs on carbon & gold on alloy. Last week I managed to get a max of 2 hrs racing and they are worn out complete. I had a look at inside of clutchbell (14T) and its quite rough,
So my questions what tips and times do you achieve.
I have now got a new LOSI 14T clutchbell, 2 KHZ 7075 hard Alum shoes & 2 Dynamite Max Life Alum Shoes to try to see if this gives any better life.
What spring setups would you recommend.
Do you do any maintenance between races i.e. sand down the inner clutch bell to make nice and smooth again as new.
CheerS
Thanks to all your help previously I solved my problem of clutch bearings failing. CHEERS
Anyway I have been getting low run times with my clutch shoes before they are worn out. I have been running 2 ally, 2 carbon, standard losi shoes with green springs on carbon & gold on alloy. Last week I managed to get a max of 2 hrs racing and they are worn out complete. I had a look at inside of clutchbell (14T) and its quite rough,
So my questions what tips and times do you achieve.
I have now got a new LOSI 14T clutchbell, 2 KHZ 7075 hard Alum shoes & 2 Dynamite Max Life Alum Shoes to try to see if this gives any better life.
What spring setups would you recommend.
Do you do any maintenance between races i.e. sand down the inner clutch bell to make nice and smooth again as new.
CheerS
I have been hearing rumors about green and gold springs.. i run gold and silver as Mike T's setup. my clutch shoes lasted me two days (practice day and race day). I run 14tooth bell and a eb mod 0S VZB V-spec..
08-04-2008, 02:41 PM
#7558
A poorly tuned engine will eat up clutch shoes, it slips too much before engaging. I went through a set of losi shoes one evening at the track breaking in my motor. Since I've got a good tune on it the shoes have been lasting 3-4 race weekends.
If your running on a high grip surface its going to eat shoes faster.
If your running on a high grip surface its going to eat shoes faster.
