13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

I'd say if slicks are the best tire at a track then this car would be a good choice. Slicks = high traction.

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

Whether a car is good for a certain track really only has to do with amount of weight on the drive wheels. Based on front and rear tire widths, you'd want somewhere between 40/60 F/R for the highest grip surfaces, and 30/70 F/R for the lowest grip surfaces. The location of the motor and batteries is irrelevant to this. However, if you need to add tons of weight to one end to get the desired weight balance, a vehicle that has a different motor location that can achieve this without undue weight may be a better option.

The motor orientation of the 210F would have no effect on artificial weight transfer front to rear as a 3 or 4 gear would. It should drive very neutral which should be easier to drive. I would argue that the 210F is probably just as capable, if not more so, than a 210 on any track where the 210 is run in MM3. The preference of one over the other may initially be down to a different driving feel and personal preference. It should be well suited to blue groove hard clay, astro, or carpet but might work well in other scenarios with rear weight added.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

I'll throw it up on some scales and see how the weight bias is.

Turtle Speed

iTrader: (11)

Just getting back into RC and I really like the looks of this car. Will be interesting to see what everyone thinks of it but it is definitely something that I am considering for a stock 17.5 buggy. Along with possibly the Schumacher KF2 which I consider a similar animal with a bit more adjustable motor positioning!

In any case, I like running something different than the rest of the pack! Makes things more interesting. Only problem is that sometimes getting parts to fix things can be a problem. I guess you gotta think ahead.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Yeah from what I can tell for stock 17.5 buggy I think I am going to really like this buggy. The gearing range available alone is quite nice.

For the motor mount issue I mentioned, I'll use this image:



As you can see, the outer screw holes have a kind of "lip" around them, so as the pinion gets bigger, they are tapered in respect to it. However the lip from what I have here in my hands doesn't seem as thick, so you could technically mount your pinion in such a way its in front of the lip, and you can go REAL big with pinions if needed.

raceyz

iTrader: (18)

I have built my kit with the 12mm hexes all the way around since thats what I already have. What front wheels are you supposed to use with this setup?

Cain

iTrader: (294)

I built mine with Associated 12mm hex style fronts

raceyz

iTrader: (18)

so you didn't use any of the kit 12mm parts?
Did you use the clamp style or the one piece style?

Cain

iTrader: (294)

I used the B5 Axles for the fronts, and the exotek 12mm hexes on the rear.

The kit pieces from what people said about the dex210v3, the plastic hexes, aren't up to snuff.

raceyz

iTrader: (18)

Did you use this one?

Mustrum

When using 2 gears in the diff which ones should be pull out?

Cain

iTrader: (294)

I used these for the front:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEBYG&P=7

91406 Associated Front Axle B5

There is also an aluminmum one you can use I think:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFFVT&P=Z

or just use the exotek one:

http://www.exotekracing.com/dex210-1...-axles-1-pair/

I looked on ebay and got 2 sets for about the same price as 1 set would have cost new shipped.

For the rear, just the exotek 12mm conversion was all that was needed.

raceyz

iTrader: (18)

Cool thanks, don't know why they went to the trouble of including a 12mm setup for the front when standard wheels wont fit anyhow.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

I am kind of new to the whole 12mm front wheel thing, what do you mean by standard wheels won't fit?

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

The B5 front hex will make width of the DEX narrower than stock.