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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 09-30-2014, 02:42 AM
  #14656  
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I got my kit about 2 months ago, and I don't have issues with the trailing inserts. In fact, I have a hard time getting them out of the steering knuckle (have to use a pick and force them out). Maybe there was a running change?
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Old 09-30-2014, 06:02 AM
  #14657  
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my next change on my car will be the MM rear arms. My car still not not rotate like i want it to in the 180's. the track does not have the forward bite for MM. However, I am still working to get "that" setup on my rm.
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Old 09-30-2014, 07:31 AM
  #14658  
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Originally Posted by Speed Freak RC
I like running a rear swaybar myself. It will help keep the front tires on the ground when on power. If you haven't tried one, I suggest you do.
Are you using a B4 swaybar kit.
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Old 09-30-2014, 07:37 AM
  #14659  
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No the swaybar kit they make for the B5M #91468

Hard parts do not require the inserts to be glued. I have ran hard parts (stock arms) for months now without a single failure. Have broke 1 front and 1 rear arm so far though.
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Old 09-30-2014, 07:42 AM
  #14660  
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Originally Posted by kuruption
I got my kit about 2 months ago, and I don't have issues with the trailing inserts. In fact, I have a hard time getting them out of the steering knuckle (have to use a pick and force them out). Maybe there was a running change?
HULK SMASH!

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Old 09-30-2014, 08:34 AM
  #14661  
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Originally Posted by WillS
Glue trailing inserts in? I didn't see this in the manual.
There's a lot you won't see in the manual either Will.
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Old 09-30-2014, 11:44 AM
  #14662  
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Default Front Steering Blocks

Originally Posted by TomErickson
I have seen a lot of comments about kit bearings. I just got my B5M kit and was assembling it yesterday and noticed that the small wheel bearings for the front spindles are not very smooth. I think I will be getting better bearings right away. I am using the stock steel spindles and glued in my inserts. So my bearing seem stiff and one side is gritty out of the box. Is THIS what everyone is seeing with their stock kit?
I have noticed the same thing. In my instance, the bearings are very smooth until the axle is inserted. That tells me that the plastic inserts that hold the bearings don't locate the axis of the axle properly. Basically side loading the bearings when you force the axle through. That causes these plain bearings to bind up a bit and feel gritty. I have tried many different bearings and new plastic bit with the same observation. You can feel the bit of resistance as the axle is pushed through the bearings. It seems a bit better with the 3mm (centered) position though.
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Old 09-30-2014, 11:52 AM
  #14663  
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Originally Posted by jehjr68
I have noticed the same thing. In my instance, the bearings are very smooth until the axle is inserted. That tells me that the plastic inserts that hold the bearings don't locate the axis of the axle properly. Basically side loading the bearings when you force the axle through. That causes these plain bearings to bind up a bit and feel gritty. I have tried many different bearings and new plastic bit with the same observation. You can feel the bit of resistance as the axle is pushed through the bearings. It seems a bit better with the 3mm (centered) position though.
OK, I understand this and it is exactly what I experienced. What can be done to align the bearings to reduce side load on the bearings. I would like to have a one piece spindle to eliminate this issue. I am really loving this chassis and this is the only area that I feel needs some attention. The old architecture was very good for bearing alignment.

I am going to look at this tonight to see what I can do.
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Old 09-30-2014, 12:03 PM
  #14664  
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Originally Posted by TomErickson
OK, I understand this and it is exactly what I experienced. What can be done to align the bearings to reduce side load on the bearings. I would like to have a one piece spindle to eliminate this issue. I am really loving this chassis and this is the only area that I feel needs some attention. The old architecture was very good for bearing alignment.

I am going to look at this tonight to see what I can do.
Do you have the updated crush tubes?
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Old 09-30-2014, 12:06 PM
  #14665  
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Originally Posted by TomErickson
OK, I understand this and it is exactly what I experienced. What can be done to align the bearings to reduce side load on the bearings. I would like to have a one piece spindle to eliminate this issue. I am really loving this chassis and this is the only area that I feel needs some attention. The old architecture was very good for bearing alignment.

I am going to look at this tonight to see what I can do.
Could be the crush sleeve issue.... I slipped a .02mm shim between the crush tube and the axle (using the axle with clamping hex) and all side load and bearing issues solved

Last edited by Jmuck69; 09-30-2014 at 12:07 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 09-30-2014, 12:36 PM
  #14666  
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The other night I noticed mine felt gritty. What's the length of the updated crush tube?
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Old 09-30-2014, 12:56 PM
  #14667  
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Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper
The other night I noticed mine felt gritty. What's the length of the updated crush tube?
I think it's .02mm longer.
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Old 09-30-2014, 01:23 PM
  #14668  
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69
I think it's .02mm longer.
Do you remember what the original value was by chance?
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Old 09-30-2014, 01:24 PM
  #14669  
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69
I think it's .02mm longer.
this made me laugh, lol.
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Old 09-30-2014, 01:42 PM
  #14670  
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Default Schelle battery strap

For my in-line setup I was looking for a way to eliminate the front battery spacers and Schelle came through. Know I can move my battery forwards and backwards without having different size front spacers. Quality is top notch and and it does what it advertised.
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