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Old 05-13-2019, 06:33 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 09-13-2017, 06:34 PM
  #1096  
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Does anyone know what the total thickness is of the hexes needed to run associated wheels? I know there +1 from the stock but I'm looking for total thickness. I have an extra set of tekno 12mm hexes that measure 4.66mm thick im trying to find out if these will work with associated wheels since I have a bunch or if I need to order +1 mm hexes still.
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Old 09-13-2017, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni
I can confirm that we're not making a slipper anytime soon. We'll leave that to the aftermarket companies.
ok, did you test any slippers from other manufacturers at all?
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Old 09-13-2017, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by rcnut87
Does anyone know what the total thickness is of the hexes needed to run associated wheels? I know there +1 from the stock but I'm looking for total thickness. I have an extra set of tekno 12mm hexes that measure 4.66mm thick im trying to find out if these will work with associated wheels since I have a bunch or if I need to order +1 mm hexes still.
I think they are 6mm
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Old 09-13-2017, 08:26 PM
  #1099  
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Originally Posted by rcnut87
Does anyone know what the total thickness is of the hexes needed to run associated wheels? I know there +1 from the stock but I'm looking for total thickness. I have an extra set of tekno 12mm hexes that measure 4.66mm thick im trying to find out if these will work with associated wheels since I have a bunch or if I need to order +1 mm hexes still.
I'll check tomorrow to see.

Originally Posted by mourinho
ok, did you test any slippers from other manufacturers at all?
I tested a spool in 13.5 and various heavy weights in the center diff. The spool had the potential to lay down the single fastest lap, but wasn't as consistent lap to lap. It also didn't land jumps as well. You had to be very precise while driving it. Same thing with heavy diff oils but to a lesser extent.

I can see a slipper for carpet/turf tracks, but honestly the center diff is so much more forgiving I think it's benefits outweigh the slippers benefits, especially if the slipper isn't that much lighter. If the slipper were lighter and also slipped the front and rear independently then I can see using one, but otherwise I'm always going to run a diff.
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Old 09-13-2017, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni
I'll check tomorrow to see.



I tested a spool in 13.5 and various heavy weights in the center diff. The spool had the potential to lay down the single fastest lap, but wasn't as consistent lap to lap. It also didn't land jumps as well. You had to be very precise while driving it. Same thing with heavy diff oils but to a lesser extent.

I can see a slipper for carpet/turf tracks, but honestly the center diff is so much more forgiving I think it's benefits outweigh the slippers benefits, especially if the slipper isn't that much lighter. If the slipper were lighter and also slipped the front and rear independently then I can see using one, but otherwise I'm always going to run a diff.
Carpet is all I'm racing on these days
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Old 09-13-2017, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni
I'll check tomorrow to see.



I tested a spool in 13.5 and various heavy weights in the center diff. The spool had the potential to lay down the single fastest lap, but wasn't as consistent lap to lap. It also didn't land jumps as well. You had to be very precise while driving it. Same thing with heavy diff oils but to a lesser extent.

I can see a slipper for carpet/turf tracks, but honestly the center diff is so much more forgiving I think it's benefits outweigh the slippers benefits, especially if the slipper isn't that much lighter. If the slipper were lighter and also slipped the front and rear independently then I can see using one, but otherwise I'm always going to run a diff.
thanks. what weights have you (and the team) tried in the centre diff on carpet?

will bornhorst be releasing his carpet setup anytime soon?
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Old 09-13-2017, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni
...I tested a spool in 13.5 ...The spool had the potential to lay down the single fastest lap, but wasn't as consistent lap to lap...
Any chance you measured the difference in reduced weight?
Also curious if a spool will be an available option or if you can share where you got the spool, was it custom made or pulled off a random TC chassis somewhere?

I've grown used to running a spool on my K2 and would like to compare some lap times as well when I get my EB410 put together for our local turf track
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Old 09-14-2017, 04:36 AM
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I demand a one way adjustable clicker with slipper and diff action built in alongside overdrive to one end that is activated on my 3rd channel. Hop to it.

PS. Must be lighter than the stock diff or else.


[/sarcasm]
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Old 09-14-2017, 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Krio
I demand a one way adjustable clicker with slipper and diff action built in alongside overdrive to one end that is activated on my 3rd channel. Hop to it.

PS. Must be lighter than the stock diff or else.


[/sarcasm]
That's about the gist of it
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Old 09-14-2017, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Norse
I agree that adding weight to the ass end combined with the right set up this wheeler will handle low bite conditions great. I see Sworkz EK1 (1st gen wheeler) kill our 2 local low bite bumpy dirt tracks consistently and it has more weight forward than just about any wheeler out.
I had an Sworkz EK1 and it was great on low bite with the proper spring and shock package. I doubt this car will struggle on low bite...
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Old 09-14-2017, 08:29 AM
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I'm kinda torn guys. I'm going to run 13.5 and I'm sure it'd help a bit, but do you guys think it's worth it to put together a full ceramic kit for this before I build it? Or maybe recommendations on which bearings to keep rubber sealed and which to run ceramic? I've only ever done ceramic in transmissions for 2wd's before.
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Old 09-14-2017, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by EbbTide
I'm kinda torn guys. I'm going to run 13.5 and I'm sure it'd help a bit, but do you guys think it's worth it to put together a full ceramic kit for this before I build it? Or maybe recommendations on which bearings to keep rubber sealed and which to run ceramic? I've only ever done ceramic in transmissions for 2wd's before.
I like to run AVID revolution ceramics with a steel race on only 1 side and leave the rubber seal removed on the opposite side, then flush the stock grease and run a dry teflon based lube typically used for bike chains. They have a kit for all the drive line bearings minus the steering linkage bearings here called "The Essentials":
Tekno EB410 | Essentials Bearing Kit

AVID also started carrying a new "Aura" bearing which is the next generation after the Revolution series which offers even better performance with a slick nylon race, but requires less abrasive cleaning chemicals and needs to be serviced more frequently so I opted to stay with Revolution for now, but might consider Aura next time:
10x15 Bearing 10x15x4 Ceramic Single Metal | Aura Bearing 6700ZC/3S
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Old 09-14-2017, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by billdelong
I like to run AVID revolution ceramics with a steel race on only 1 side and leave the rubber seal removed on the opposite side, then flush the stock grease and run a dry teflon based lube typically used for bike chains. They have a kit for all the drive line bearings minus the steering linkage bearings here called "The Essentials":
Tekno EB410 | Essentials Bearing Kit

AVID also started carrying a new "Aura" bearing which is the next generation after the Revolution series which offers even better performance, but requires less abrasive cleaning chemicals and needs to be serviced more frequently so I opted to stay with Revolution for now, but might consider Aura next time:
10x15 Bearing 10x15x4 Ceramic Single Metal | Aura Bearing 6700ZC/3S
Excellent info! Thanks man . Just to clarify, you leave the rubber seal off even while racing? Or is it just to clean out the bearing, then you put it back in?

Kinda nice too that they have the drop down menu to make your own kit. That was some quick work lol. I didn't think anyone but that JT company had made something for the 410 already
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Old 09-14-2017, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by EbbTide
Excellent info! Thanks man . Just to clarify, you leave the rubber seal off even while racing? Or is it just to clean out the bearing, then you put it back in?

Kinda nice too that they have the drop down menu to make your own kit. That was some quick work lol. I didn't think anyone but that JT company had made something for the 410 already
AVID had these kits ready for the EB410 the same day Tekno published their bearing chart

Yes, I leave the rubber shield permanently removed and face that side to inside of each hub/diff leaving the metal shield exposed to the elements. I typically remove/clean/lube the Revolution bearings once every 4-5 race days but I think the Aura series needs to be cleaned every 1-2 race days and I'm not sure if I'm THAT dedicated
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Old 09-14-2017, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by billdelong
AVID had these kits ready for the EB410 the same day Tekno published their bearing chart

Yes, I leave the rubber shield permanently removed and face that side to inside of each hub/diff leaving the metal shield exposed to the elements. I typically remove/clean/lube the Revolution bearings once every 4-5 race days but I think the Aura series needs to be cleaned every 1-2 race days and I'm not sure if I'm THAT dedicated
Thanks for clearing that up

lol yeah I think I'll pass on the Aura's as well. Just the price alone is like getting slapped in the face.
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