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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 04-22-2024, 12:09 PM   -   Wikipost
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Old 08-22-2014, 02:38 PM
  #13561  
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Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore
2 types of freaks in this thread...
weight savings freaks
and ball cup freaks.


p.s. Tacompton isnt doing too shabby in florida right now.
who from there is racing? Besides Mike.
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Old 08-22-2014, 04:01 PM
  #13562  
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Question, does running the R rear arms on the mid motor car adds more rear grip ?
Is this because it brings the rear hubs closer to the weight of the car ?
Sorry I know it's been asked before but I am testing at the track and mobile.


Edit --- Never Mind always check page 1. Thanks ! LOl

Last edited by Manatarms25; 08-22-2014 at 04:20 PM.
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Old 08-22-2014, 04:47 PM
  #13563  
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Tacompton




Now

coast to coast across the whole hood. He !



Mama
Yes the rear arm does make more grip because its 2mm more forward then mid arm.

The plastic arm of either car also produces the most traction compared to the Hard arm.
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Old 08-22-2014, 05:04 PM
  #13564  
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any suggestions for 17.5 starting gearing thanks
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Old 08-22-2014, 05:28 PM
  #13565  
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Kinda wish Schelle had this flexibility.

http://www.avidrc.com/flexkit/?kit=800&kitname=B5M

jB
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Old 08-22-2014, 05:34 PM
  #13566  
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Originally Posted by Jason Baliban
Kinda wish Schelle had this flexibility.

http://www.avidrc.com/flexkit/?kit=800&kitname=B5M

jB
Nice.
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Old 08-22-2014, 05:39 PM
  #13567  
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Originally Posted by RCBuddha
Nice.
Yeah man! I emailed schelle about creating a custom kit. Seems kind of silly to buy a full bearing kit and then a ceramic kit for the gearbox.

They havent written me back yet, but hopefully they do as i would like to give them my biz

jB
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Old 08-22-2014, 05:48 PM
  #13568  
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Originally Posted by RussF
Question for you seasoned B5M owners. I just bought a new B5M kit as my first offroad car and I'm done assembling it and installing the electronics.

My question is about the motor wires. The HW Justock ESC has long 14ga wires that will just reach the motor (D4 17.5) if I route it down the right side of the chassis. I see most guys route the motor wires up and over the battery. I would assume to keep the motor wires as short as possible. I was trying to keep the battery strap easy to remove and keep the COG down. Would there be a potential problem with the motor wires routed around the battery?

BTW I have read about 250+ pages of this thread before buying my car. There is alot of good info here.

Just personal preference. I went right through the middle through my saddle packs. I try to keep my wiring clean. I haven't seen anyone go through the middle, but a lot of people are running shorty or square packs
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Old 08-22-2014, 07:06 PM
  #13569  
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While I was at my local track I decided my Reedy Sonic 540 Mach 2 10.5 motor needed a cleaning. I took the motor apart, cleaned it and then went to put it back together only to realize I didn't know how to put it back together....total rookie move on my part. I didnt pay attention to how it came apart. Anyone have an exploded view or a link to a video on how to put it back together?
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Old 08-22-2014, 10:15 PM
  #13570  
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So I have the car all built and I put on clay tires for SRS. I am running the out of the box setup as suggested by Wildcat with what I think is a tight differential since it is a high traction surface. I am finding that when turning at higher speeds the car likes to spin out so I have to take corners slow. Any advice, or is this just how buggies run?
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Old 08-23-2014, 07:35 AM
  #13571  
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just get the avid flex bearing kit. you wont be disappointed. IMO they are better anyway
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Old 08-23-2014, 07:45 AM
  #13572  
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Originally Posted by Buggy Buddy
So I have the car all built and I put on clay tires for SRS. I am running the out of the box setup as suggested by Wildcat with what I think is a tight differential since it is a high traction surface. I am finding that when turning at higher speeds the car likes to spin out so I have to take corners slow. Any advice, or is this just how buggies run?
it could be a few things, but since your racing locally, I will say it is tires. I kn ow, I know you bought the right tires. SRS and W3 need special tires. what does special mean? well broken in tires and foams. Many of the fast guys at srs are running clay slicks. But, if you dont have it sorted out by next weekend, I can have a look. I had a local drive my RM car last night at w3 and said it was very smooth and easy to drive and turned well. If you like, you can try my car next weekend. I will be at SRS all 3 days for the grand opening series event.
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Old 08-23-2014, 07:50 AM
  #13573  
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Hey I'm very interested in the serpent mid motor body. I like the way it's a cross between finnisher and silencer. My question is will it fit on the b5m? No one at the local tracks run serpent. Ae, losi, Kyosho, and a few durangos but no serpents. If anyone out there can help me out I'd much appreciate it.
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Old 08-23-2014, 08:03 AM
  #13574  
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Anyway, after running MM for about a month solid, I gave my RM setup a try again last night. It took some getting use to in the corners with the pendulum returning. But once I got the feel. I turned some very good runs. My best runs on this layout. The RM car is so much easier to drive hard in 17.5. The MM is better in sweepers, has a nicer feel in the flowing sections and jumps flatter. But it likes to do crazy shit when I driver harder. So for now, the MM is shelved and the RM is my go to.
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Old 08-23-2014, 08:03 AM
  #13575  
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[QUOTE=Ostach24;13486438]Hey I'm very interested in the serpent mid motor body. I like the way it's a cross between finnisher and silencer. My question is will it fit on the b5m? No one at the local tracks run serpent. Ae, losi, Kyosho, and a few durangos but no serpents. If anyone out there can help me out I'd much appreciate

the Silencer is prefered for its handling & designed to fit a b5..

Last edited by Wild Cherry; 08-23-2014 at 08:22 AM.
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