DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Since the 'Birds I have been running the same diffs w/o a rebuild. IRS diffs, the newer blue ones (not gold) cut for the "D" diff drive ring. Stock, mod, 19t, whatever i toss at em they have performed flawlessly on a single build. Still glass smooth. The plastic outdrives are a lighter advantage for stock class, but the durability of the IRS outdrives cant be matched, for a few grams more. When i am at a bigger event i use the Niftech aluminum dogbones with the SWD swivels for zero outdrive wear. When im at the local track i run the stock plastic dogbones with pincushions... but not in mod. I have bent (twisted) the pincushions in mod. One-way, spool, diff, dont matter. I guess i have been a lucky one to not experience all of the front end damage associated with a spool or a one-way. Its ok, i inevitably glitch when i least need too. For most, it seems to be from on-throttle tags to the wall. The stress has to go somewhere. Loosening the front diff may be a way, but seems to me its something else. As far as building the diffs, i match the front and rear diff spring in length (after compressing them with pliers per the manual). I then ground the rear diff spring 2 tenths shorter than the front spring. This gives me a "normal" front slightly tighter than the rear diff adjustment, when both are tightened completely, and equally backed off half a turn. Its a great starting point, and i rarely have to do much adjustment afterwards. Having the front diff slightly tighter gives that off the corner-on throttle steering you need in 19t and mod. A spool (a one-way too for that matter) creates so much wear on the driveline, and to me, the car drives erratic on anything other than a glass smooth surface. I guess it all comes down to driver preference, and how deep your pockets are for spares. I would rather finish a race in third, than be on the sidelines with a melted diff, broken dogbone, ETC. Besides, you never know if the fools in front of ya will blow the (plastic) rear diff with two laps to go... its your race then! SUCKA!

- DaveW

The Black Kat

Try some steel/alluminum outdrives

And where did you get the center one-way?

RcRacerX

I believe it's an IRS brand, Iv'e had that thing for ever. I noticed at my LHS they are stocking a diffrent center bearing that has a screw that runs through the center and into the connecting pin to "center" the one way to the main shaft. I'm thinking about picking that up once I get back into racing now that I can hopefully afford to shortly.

DR RushQuake PH

Hey guys,
I just ordered my TC3 Team kit. I noticed that it comes with a bottle of 40wt shock oil. Now, this is my first onroad, and to me 40wt seems a wee bit thick.

Im going to use it as a basher, since I have no onroad tracks near by, and since my road is pretty coarse, I figured the 40wt would throw the tc3 for a wild ride. Wouldnt 32.5wt be slightly more appropriate? Again I have no idea what Im talking abou when it comes to onroad...

RcRacerX

It's just going to be something that you will have to play around with. I race my tc3 strictly on carpet, and I like 50wt up front, and 35 in the rear. You should be more conserned with ride hight if your going to run it on a knarly road surface.

RC Paperboy

I agree aboyt the IRS diffs, they are as smooth as my 12th scale diff even after 6 weeks of mod racing. No slippage either. I sanded the rings like in my 1/12 as well.

The Black Kat

Using a TC for bashing? Hope you got some friends to bash with, When I tried bashing my TC it got boring after about a week.

Anyway....I'd say about 35 wt for the road. If its tons grippy like mine then it shouldn't really be a problem what you use

losixxx

iTrader: (9)

You should look around where you live and find others and form a small race club or something!!!!!

Rory

I think Durango and possibly GPM make centre one-ways... pretty sure IRS don't though

cpatel529

iTrader: (80)

I will be running my FT TC3 on a smooth concrete outdoor track with traction additivies on the ground. I was wondering if it is better to run the oneway or the spool and what the difference between the two would be on the track. Thank you

Chirag

crACkeD ChaSsiS

iTrader: (4)

hey guyz my tc3 has been sittin up for a mnth now. im wondering if i go to race my car would i have to resetup my car>??!? friends telin me ill have to? so ny answers would really help.

Rory

re-setup??? doubt it very much...

if you really want to, make sure shocks and diffs feel ok, check ride height and camber, and away you go

johnbull

Hi friends. Greetings from Malta.

DAVE W.

We run the IRS diffs at the rear on my son's car too. And of course the spool up front. We have had no problems with wear all season. I think I rebuilt the rear diff once in the whole season.

And remember that's running 8 turn mods.

To be honest though, we never really had any problems with the stock plastic outdrives. They just need rebuilding more often, but that's all.

For drive shafts I use Corally Assassin drive shafts since they are a straight fit and come with blades to protect the outdrives.

Are you at the Nats this weekend?

tornado

Hi John!

What's the part number ? 79180?

johnbull

Corally drive shaft numbers:

Dog bones (pair) 79182

Replacement caps (pair) 79189

The drive shaft packet will not have caps with it so make sure you buy both.