More steering on my RC8
06-11-2010, 03:49 PM
#1
More steering on my RC8
I need more steering under power. My buggy understeers so bad everywhere. I have to come to almost a complete stop to turn at all, then I have to tap the brakes right before I turn to get it to come around. I drove my friends losi 8 2.0 the other day and it was the exact opposite. It turned much tighter on and off power.
I couldn't even stay on the track with his, because I'm so use to having to start my turns very early.
My rc8 is the RS version. The only upgrade I have done is the big bore shocks.
I couldn't even stay on the track with his, because I'm so use to having to start my turns very early.
My rc8 is the RS version. The only upgrade I have done is the big bore shocks.
06-11-2010, 04:17 PM
#2
First off, post your complete setup and I mean everything, diff oil weights, shock oil weights, springs, camber link settings, everything. That way if there is something off we will see it and can help you better.
06-11-2010, 05:23 PM
#3
Diff 5000 on all
shocks 25 front and back
springs whatever comes on the buggy
tires are I beams
toe at 2 out
ride height is at 29 front 30 back
everything else is factory settings
06-12-2010, 08:12 AM
#4
OK, your diff oils are the first thing that I see that can cause your problem, change the rear diff oil to 2k to free up some steering. What it's doing is fighting the front end in an attempt to keep the buggy going straight, 2k will allow more rotation off throttle so you can turn better.
Sway bars, stock up front looks like the 2.5 silver bar with the 2.8 gold rear. Go to the 2.2 black bar up front if the rear diff oil change doesn't give you enough steering.
Your shock oil, up front the standard setup is 50 wt oil, 25 wt could be too soft and would take away steering response as well as possibly being too thin for the springs you have up front, this could lead to a "po-go-ing" effect where the wheels bounce up and down when you corner instead of planting and you end up losing traction because of it. Rear shocks, typically you would run 10k thinner fluid in the rear shocks compared to the front, same thing with the springs, they need to be matched to the weight of oil that your using.
Sway bars, stock up front looks like the 2.5 silver bar with the 2.8 gold rear. Go to the 2.2 black bar up front if the rear diff oil change doesn't give you enough steering.
Your shock oil, up front the standard setup is 50 wt oil, 25 wt could be too soft and would take away steering response as well as possibly being too thin for the springs you have up front, this could lead to a "po-go-ing" effect where the wheels bounce up and down when you corner instead of planting and you end up losing traction because of it. Rear shocks, typically you would run 10k thinner fluid in the rear shocks compared to the front, same thing with the springs, they need to be matched to the weight of oil that your using.
06-12-2010, 10:24 AM
#6
Your shock oil, up front the standard setup is 50 wt oil, 25 wt could be too soft and would take away steering response as well as possibly being too thin for the springs you have up front, this could lead to a "po-go-ing" effect where the wheels bounce up and down when you corner instead of planting and you end up losing traction because of it. Rear shocks, typically you would run 10k thinner fluid in the rear shocks compared to the front, same thing with the springs, they need to be matched to the weight of oil that your using.
06-12-2010, 10:36 AM
#7
The 50 wt reference was from the standard setup sheet. Go ahead and change the rear diff oil to 2k and see how that does and go from there.
06-12-2010, 10:38 AM
#8
I don't think it's your diff oils, I ran 5-5-5 in my RC8 and it turned on a dime. Try something simple first, before taking your diffs apart, play with your ride height and droop settings.
I'd start with less front droop, and then drive some laps see how it feels once you feel that it's at it's best with that setting, adjust the rear droop, start with full rear droop. Try it, and reduce until it feels right. The RC8 react very well to droop and ride height changes, it will surprise you.
I also run zero front toe ( and sometimes negative toe ) this was also a positive change. I'm shocked to hear that you can't turn in hard. My buddy had a Losi 8ight 2.0 and drove my RC8, and said it blew his setup away, and that he could drive the RC8 faster. You have to do what works for your driving style.
Remember, it's easier to start simple, and do one thing at a time.
I'd start with less front droop, and then drive some laps see how it feels once you feel that it's at it's best with that setting, adjust the rear droop, start with full rear droop. Try it, and reduce until it feels right. The RC8 react very well to droop and ride height changes, it will surprise you.
I also run zero front toe ( and sometimes negative toe ) this was also a positive change. I'm shocked to hear that you can't turn in hard. My buddy had a Losi 8ight 2.0 and drove my RC8, and said it blew his setup away, and that he could drive the RC8 faster. You have to do what works for your driving style.
Remember, it's easier to start simple, and do one thing at a time.
06-12-2010, 10:43 AM
#9
I forgot to add, when adjusting droop, make small changes ( 1mm ) . To measure, elevate your chassis, so that the a-arms and wheels hang freely and measure the length of your shocks, from the centre of the shock cap, to the bottom screw in the shock riser, they should be even left-to-right.
06-12-2010, 11:13 AM
#10
Tech Fanatic
25wt for the shocks is right for big bore. Mine turns just fine my setup is close to the stock setup except for heavier springs in the rear.
What we don't know is how you are driving it. You can't go into a sharp turn still be on the gas. I can with the short course SC8 but thats a whole different animal
What we don't know is how you are driving it. You can't go into a sharp turn still be on the gas. I can with the short course SC8 but thats a whole different animal
06-12-2010, 11:21 AM
#11
25wt for the shocks is right for big bore. Mine turns just fine my setup is close to the stock setup except for heavier springs in the rear.
What we don't know is how you are driving it. You can't go into a sharp turn still be on the gas. I can with the short course SC8 but thats a whole different animal
What we don't know is how you are driving it. You can't go into a sharp turn still be on the gas. I can with the short course SC8 but thats a whole different animal
It's almost like I have to pump the brakes to get it to come around at all.
I'm making some changes to my car right now, and going by a setup shane racer said to use after I got the big bores on. Next time I go to the track I'm going to really try and use my buddys setup tools to get mine better. I haven't bought any setup gauges yet at all. I've been busy buying shocks, parts, and engines and have kind of drained myself for awhile. I think me and a friend might go in on one of the setup stations. Are those worth getting?
One thing I don't understand at all is droop and how it effects the car.
06-12-2010, 11:24 AM
#12
I think it is your 5k diff oil. That would be the only thing I'd change for now. If you change everything and it isnt fixed, it might have been something else you changed. I've learned a few things with this hobby, and the most important thing is to change one thing at a time
06-12-2010, 11:39 AM
#13
I forgot to add, when adjusting droop, make small changes ( 1mm ) . To measure, elevate your chassis, so that the a-arms and wheels hang freely and measure the length of your shocks, from the centre of the shock cap, to the bottom screw in the shock riser, they should be even left-to-right.
06-12-2010, 01:06 PM
#14
There is nothing wrong with your diff oil 5/5/5 is the starting point
for all RC8s.
You said you upgraded to big bores so 25wt is in the ballpark depending
on what piston you have.
Springs? If you upgraded to big bores the stock springs would not fit?
What bigbores did you get?
If your springs are even close to a normal RC8 rate then I would say that
your problem might be something mechanical and not your setup.
I Beams are really not known for having alot of steering. What tire is the
Losi running?
Check the DIR rate on your radio. Its in a easy place to hit accidently.
Turn on your radio and push the button either + or - and see what the
display says. Its very easy to thumb out a bunch of steering rate when
your driving and not realize it. Should be 100%.
Servo saver, look at page 9 in your manual and make sure the collar
has not backed off. Should be 8mm from the bottom of the bellcrank
arm. Look in your manual it will show you where to measure from.
Servo, are you still running the RTR ones. What RX pack are you
running? If your buddy has a nice steering servo in his Losi and a
6volt rechargeble RX pack and your still running the stock servo
with AAs it will make a HUGE difference.
for all RC8s.
You said you upgraded to big bores so 25wt is in the ballpark depending
on what piston you have.
Springs? If you upgraded to big bores the stock springs would not fit?
What bigbores did you get?
If your springs are even close to a normal RC8 rate then I would say that
your problem might be something mechanical and not your setup.
I Beams are really not known for having alot of steering. What tire is the
Losi running?
Check the DIR rate on your radio. Its in a easy place to hit accidently.
Turn on your radio and push the button either + or - and see what the
display says. Its very easy to thumb out a bunch of steering rate when
your driving and not realize it. Should be 100%.
Servo saver, look at page 9 in your manual and make sure the collar
has not backed off. Should be 8mm from the bottom of the bellcrank
arm. Look in your manual it will show you where to measure from.
Servo, are you still running the RTR ones. What RX pack are you
running? If your buddy has a nice steering servo in his Losi and a
6volt rechargeble RX pack and your still running the stock servo
with AAs it will make a HUGE difference.
06-12-2010, 01:11 PM
#15
Thats wierd, I have 2 rc8s and they came with 5-7-2