mark_stnly

iTrader: (2)

What is a good starting point for a spur gear, I have a 104 64pitch spur now. I run 17.5 rubber.

Scottmisfits

iTrader: (7)

The guys around here are running 100/42 or there about. Depends on driving style, traction levels, size of track, layout of track, etc.

chrisfrom619

What speed control are you using? Regular speedo without advance timing I say from 3.8-4.3 FDR.

M.Abramowicz

iTrader: (1)

Ugh bad crash

Maybe this tip help you to prevent
I just cut it from fiberglass 2.5mm and it helps at my events

http://abram.eu.org/files/tc5_engine_prot.pdf



I don't know why AE don't add this to kit ?

M.

Scooter79rs

iTrader: (9)

Thats one mod I've thought about doing.
I've successfully done the TRF servo mod, re-built the whole car at the same time. It's to be working alright, just gotta go to the track to test it.

rcspeed.usa

Because AE designed the motor mount with 3 screws, if mount it with only 2, you risk bending the mount in a crash

fatbear

iTrader: (10)

It still bends easily with three screws mounted.
About onced every 4-6 months I have to replace mine.

mark_stnly

iTrader: (2)

I am running an LRP SPX profile 8.

M.Abramowicz

iTrader: (1)

Yes, you are right but I use 3 screws and sometimes got small hit
on motor side or I hit some track layout item and ... you know...

With my experience, better is have this one motor guard or nothing

Regards!
m.

Warren Weaver

iTrader: (49)

I drilled the xray motor guard on my chassis and it works awesome.I ran last year without it and had no problems but better to be safe than sorry.I can post pics tonight.

M.Abramowicz

iTrader: (1)

Post it

Regards!
m.

Warren Weaver

iTrader: (49)

i will when i get out of work today sorry i forgot.
thanks
warren

hgbtrout

iTrader: (1)

Pretty new to touring cars just bought a TC5 and have a few questions after a few runs at my local carpet track (A Main Hobbies indoor track)...

1. one of my shocks is leaking oil out the bottom onto shaft. I bought a shock rebuild kit and rebuilt the insides but it still leaks - any ideas what my next step should be

2. Trying to get the right car set up - a guy at my track said a ride height of 5 and a droop of 5 is a good place to start. I backed my springs all the way off and used a integy ride height/droop gauge to set my ride height first. to set the car to a 5 ride height I barely tightened down on the springs - this doesn't seem right as when I pick the car up the springs aren't even ingaged. droop I am pretty clear on but I know I need to get my ride height right before I set my droop - I could be totally back wards on this as car set up is all new to me. Any hints, tips, ideas....real basic stuff as I am a beginner regards to car set up.

Thanks in advance for the help and hope everyone has a great thanksgiving.

pinggoy

iTrader: (24)

try droop first then ride height.. also make sure your shock is in normal lenght,(61-62mm) measure the whole lenght of the shocks from top to bottom..

make sure you lube the oring and check the whole assemble.go over the manual..recheck.and let us know when your done..

Redwood

1.The first time I built my shocks, they leaked. It was because I trimmed slightly the black plastic retainer that seals the oring at the bottom. I bought a rebuild kit, again the retainers seemed too big but with the tool you get with the kit and a lot of force you can get them in, and the shocks have been perfect since.

2. I'm not 100% sure I know what you mean, but there is no reason your springs should need to be engaged when you pick the car up, it only matters that theyre engaged when you're driving. I'm not sure but I don't think my springs would engage when I pick up my car. I would advise winding the collars all the way up and marking a point on the collar with a pen, and always adjust both collars the same amount either side, unless your weight distribution is wildly out.

When setting droop, be wary, there are different ways to measure it, and different gauges will have different readings. Use the Associated gauge that comes with the kit, I find it to be easiest. Take you wheels off and detach your shocks. Sit the bottom of the chassis on the flat part of the gauge, so that the gauge runs from one suspension arm to the other. It help to rest the other end on something so that the chassis is flat, I use a book and choose the right amount of pages to match the gauge, simple but effective.
Then turn the droop screw till the bottom of the C-Hub rests at the height you want (5 droop would be the 5 level on the AE droop gauge). Repeat on the other side, then on the rear.
Generally you want to run higher droop numbers in the front, or the same. I run 6 front 5 back generally, but adjust after a run if needs be.

People often state their droop in millimeters above ride height, dont confuse this for the method I said, or your droop will be miles out.

Hope that is helpful.

Regards

Neal