cjtamu

iTrader: (11)

Are the threads on the nut or tube damaged? Clean them off and look.

warpig

iTrader: (7)

IMO they should make that servo saver nut a hex. Maybe the same size as the shock tool?? In fact I may just dremel mine or have my buddy machine me one. I had an idea of making one so you can put pins in it to retain it. I don't know... it's not that big of a deal to me.

sluggo_sx8

iTrader: (5)

well there is way to much to read, will a 2.0 body fit a 1.0 buggy? I was looking for a spare body and really like the proline shift 2.0 body!

Thanks
Chris

unsp0ken

iTrader: (25)

yup 2.0 body fits 1.0. i think it's actually a better fit since it's slightly bigger. the 1.0 bodies are a bit tight. speaking of bodies, i've broken two bodies already (jconcepts and stock) because the front part of the body tends to tear. this is the area where the body mount is. do you guys know of any solutions to this?

sluggo_sx8

iTrader: (5)

I keep the left over trimmings from new bodies. Use them to make washers for where your body post go through and ca them to the body. Make sure to cut them 1/4 bigger or so then the hole. Not perfect but will help a new body last longer.

Integra

iTrader: (8)

Drywall patch's and silicone is my secret to keeping the hole's from tearing or cracking...the silicone everywhere else is rub spots that eventually wear off the paint.

jkas10

iTrader: (123)

Yes, that setup will work with the right engine. I have some engines that I run silvers on the alum shoes and others that I run all green springs. Depends on the grunt of the engine and the track conditions. Gold-alum/green-carbon would be a good place to start and go from there.

jkas10

iTrader: (123)

I can't see the pic since photobucket is blocked at work... But, Shoe Goo works real well for body repair and I use a fabric woven material for RC planes for strength and repair. (Maybe what you showed in your pic, Nick )

superlapS15

iTrader: (5)

Integra, unsp0ken, cjtamu and Warpig- I've tried turning it with a pair of locking vise grips and still it won't compress the spring completely. I've tried it on the old steering over-ride assembly and a brand new one and neither would allow the nut to be screwed much past the base of the tube.

It seems from what you've said that it should go all the way up then be backed off- I'll probably try to get it a little further up and leave it there. That should be close to 2.5 - 3 turns from what would be fully compressed.

Thanks for the responses.

cjtamu

iTrader: (11)

Unspoken- Make the front and rear mount holes oval. See how Integra's rear hole is on the body? Do the same with the front. Just enough so the body can move when the chassis flexes. I also use Shoe Goo on the underside of all my bodies, protects the paint and the body. Let the paint dry for 24 hours before you apply.

Superlap, I think I'd go ahead and get a new nut and tube. Sounds like something's not right.

roadracer43

iTrader: (1)

Ive had the same problems with the stock body and a new proline shift body breaking at the front body mount. Im gonna try the illusion body because it doesnt have the piece in the front. Hopefully I wont have any more problems with it.

unsp0ken

iTrader: (25)

bad news. the illuzion broke on me at the front body mount after 1 run at revelation raceway. i put on a stock 2.0 body, it cracked after a couple of runs. i did try my friend's protoform harddrive body and that thing is a tank!! it did not crack at all the whole day. he told me it's the strongest body he's used on his 8ight and it has never broken on him regardless of how hard hes driven/crashed. i'm gonna be ordering one soon.

dodgeboy93

dear UNSPOKEN,
what i have found is that in the front of the body where it goes thru the front shock tower i cut that part off so it does not go thru to shock tower cuz if it does it forces the body up and puts stress right where the body mount is and then it breaks off where the hole is then u r SOL. i also slot that hole and put nylon washers on both body mounts, lose so that when your frame flexes your body will too!!! hope this helps!!

spooner

Great info on keeping the body from cracking. I have a Losi 8 1.0 kit with a O.S v-spec .21 and a Go Tech .21 3 port race. I have purchased max life shoes due to I find the stock shoes wear fairly quick so why not try something new. What spring combinations are some of you running? All the same spring or 2 and 2. I think I want to try a softer spring than silver for earlier throttle response but what do you think from experience?. Should I throw a composite shoe in the mix?
Thanks for any positive info.

Ken

sluggo_sx8

iTrader: (5)

ok guys not having any luck with the 8ight stock clutch. Here is what I got

new 8ight roller
Grp tuned
jp3 pipe
tq 30% fuel
same setup as everyone seems to be using

buggies first race on sunday. After 3 races the clutch was pooched. The plastic shoes where 3/4 way gone and the stock alum shoes where at about 1/2 to 3/4 gone. I was using green springs on the plastic shoes and gold on the alum with 13 tooth bell. Also forgot I am using the steel flywheel.

So I got a big race this weekend so I picked up a set of the dynamite shoes and a new set of plastics with another new bell. Should a be ok for the weekend or is there something else I should be looking at?

Thanks