8ightScale/CJP

Your droop setup depends on your track conditions. On a smooth track, you can run less droop. If the jumps on your track are not that big, you should still be ok with less droop. If your track has good traction, less droop will allow you to corner faster, because your springs will have more tension, which makes it harder to roll over. If you traction roll more than other racers at your track, you might have too much droop, or you may be trying to hit the turns too fast. I found this out by letting one of the fast guys at my track run a race with my buggy. He noticed right away I had too much droop, because he kept rolling over in a turn where he normally gets through pretty quick. That one little thing helped me drive better because I started taking the turns faster not worrying about rolling over. Your springs and shock oil play a big part too, but I'm sure you already know that.

Your lower arms shouldn't have an excessive amount of play. Take your front and rear assembly off the chassis and check the bolts that screw into your diff housing. (The ones that hold your plates) Release your shocks from the lower arms, and release the upper arm from your hubs/uprights. Tighten the two screws that hold each plate. Raise the arms and let them fall on thier own to make sure the screws are not too tight! You don't want your arms to bind at all moving up and down. You can even release the roll bar from the arms for a better adjustment. If this doesn't stop the excessive movement, forward and backwards, you might need new arms. That shouldn't be the case, unless you cut or shaved material from the arms.

Good luck, and don't forget to let a faster driver at your track, wheel your buggy for a few. They don't even have to have the same buggy you do.

Check out the Jammin' site, Plenty of setup sheets you can download, or just look at.

Crocket

Hiya Jerseyboy,
I find that the hinge pin holes in the rear anti squat plate wear fast on the X1CR allowing the hinge pins to move around. This in turn allows the rear wheels to move forward and back. It does not appear to effect the performance of the buggy but if it gets any worst I might look at replacing the antisquat plate as it is just a bad look
When I do I will probably go for the King Headz type as it has set screws added at the hinge pin holes to keep pins from wearing out the holes.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/9908

Jerseyboy

Eightscale thanks for the info, I havent played much with droop but I will to find optimum setting for me.

Crocket yes I see its the anti sqaut plates front and rear that is worn. The holes are big causing forward backward movement.

Paradoxmaker

i have had the exact oppisite, I have had to slightly file the ends of my lower arms to get them to fit between the anti squat plates.

arghh

i just use shim there and the problem gone.. no need bought new plate

jfc_tech

iTrader: (4)

as always... good tips from u arghh..

Crocket

Hiya Arghh, A shim between the arm and the antisquat plate would remove slop from your arms wearing but would not overcome the issue we are taking about where the hinge pin hole in the antisquat plate wears and becomes an oval hole.
when this happens the inner hinge pins can move side to side which in turn allows the arms to pivot causing the wheels to go back and forth. The only way to shim this would be to drill out the Antisquat plate and press in an insert. Sound like a lot of effort when you can buy the King Headz ones for around $15 - which is cheaper that the original
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/9908
The good thing about these ones is the set screws that lock the hinge pin preventing it from turning. It is the rotating of the Hinge pin that wears out the original.

Jerseyboy

Thats what I thought Crocket , arghh is way off base on this one.

I had my first race meeting with the PBS. I must say that even though I felt I have more steering I dont think the more steering is necessarily a good thing. For me looking at my laptimes , I am definitely off my previous pace.
Maybe I am wrong maybe not but also comments fron Chad was that even though he can turn faster laptimes, he felt that he wasnt as consistent with the PBS.
It may suit some tracks more than others. I felt faster in some areas and slower in others. Overall it does not seem to work for my drive style.
This is only my feeling now. I am putting the C-hub back and next race meeting I will check laptimes and then decide which one is faster overall.
Any other comments from you guys. What do you think.

Crocket

Something I have seen with cars using PBS type suspension is that on dusty tracks the pivot balls tend to bind up changing the suspension settings. This is made worse by the fact that due to the way the PBS system works it also binds up and slows down the steering reaction.

I have never had any trouble with getting steering out of an X1CR so dont see the benefit with spending the money on the PBS.

jfc_tech

iTrader: (4)

arghhh... now Im in deep shit. pull back the compliment


keep us updated on the PBS vs Chub jersey...

I can't wait for my big race.. LRP MASTER RACE
I hope i do not DNF this time.
My truggy is ready. my sts 28 is ready.. Am i ready?

macnkitty2002

iTrader: (7)

you can't race one time with the PBS and expect to get any legitimate results. you have been driving the C Hub since you got your X1, and probably if you had a buggy before that it was a C hub as well. you need to get used to othe PBS for about 2 months of racing before you can make any serious decisions. you can't expect to drive the PBS at its best the first time out, you need time to get used to it like you did with the C Hub.

arghh

yeahh jerseyboy..little missunderstanding here.. i thought i regarding ur posting "Also I noticed on the X1 lower suspension arm I have alot of forward and backward play.."
thats why i suggest putting shim to solve the freeplay..

but when i go through crocket posting "Hiya Jerseyboy,I find that the hinge pin holes in the rear anti squat plate wear fast on the X1CR allowing the hinge pins to move around.."
this mean changing new plate is only the way to solve it..

wondering if jammin make latest design arm holder/anti squat plate using rubber gromet or insert.. so when it wear out, just change the rubber or insert only..

Jerseyboy

The main reason for this wear is the force that the shocks exert against the squat plates.
I've made some inquiries and Ive ordered new ones. For the rear you can use 2 of the same plates as this will take longer to wear.

Crocket

Hmmmmm......A little confused on your comments Jerseyboy.
I have always thought the wear was from the metal to metal contact between the the hinge pin rotating inside the anti-squat plates, using the antisquat plates that lock the hinge pins in place stops the hinge pins grinding against the antisquat plates, wearing them out.


To use 2 standard anti-squat plates you are going to need to grind the lug of the bottom of one of them where it goes through the chassis, you will also need to use longer hinge pins???
Why would you go to all this trouble buying 2 standard ones at $11.00 each and then still needing to modifying one of them when the King Headz one that has the locking set screws is only $15.49??

Jerseyboy

Crocket yes you are correct. The hinge pins locate for rear in the rear sqaut plate 2 deg and rear toe plate 3 deg.
The holes are worn oval, due to the pressure that the shock exerts on the lower control arm. The hinge pins have a gap as it does not tie right up against the sqaut plate. I locate the one sqaute plat in the hole and the second one I grind off, thereby taking out the play in the hinge pins.