Tub Cyclone `S`
10-31-2006, 08:57 AM
#286
Originally Posted by kwellst
if it only ran 130(i dont know the outside temp when u ran it) and it now being colder i'd try for 9.0FD. and im sorry to hear that this car isnt like your pro4. the pro 4 is shaft drive correct?
10-31-2006, 08:59 AM
#287
Originally Posted by bigair78
BX, how tight is your rear diffs? Mine was pretty tight and seemed to slow the car down. I loosened it up. I put it on the ground with the bumper on my shoe. I then tightened the diff until I found the sweet spot.
Are you running cvds or dogbones?
Josh
Are you running cvds or dogbones?
Josh
11-03-2006, 07:33 PM
#288
I think I am seeing the same thing BX is. I have a FT TC4. I have a P2K pro mounted in it. My gearing is 6.43 in it. In my cyclone s I have a novak brushless 13.5 mounted in it with 6.41 gearing. The TC4 seems a lot quicker. Now I have not ran them at the same time. Just back to back. Also my rear diff loosen up on my cyclone. But the tc4 just appears to be so much faster. My TC4 is a handful compared to the cyclones smooth running. Anyway I know how you feel BX.
11-05-2006, 07:48 PM
#289
I got to do some side by side comparsion today. With both cars. After watching them together I realize they are about the same speed. However, my TC4 seems to just have a little more out of the hole. I am not sure if that is because of the shaft drive or what. But the cyclone s is so much smoother. My TC4 has always wanted to go all over the place. The cyclone is planted. I have had better luck with my TC4, but I hope to run my cyclone more in the carpet season.
11-06-2006, 05:00 AM
#290
Bigair78, one thing you will find with the cyclone is that it wont torque steer like a shaft drive does. However, this will only start to be an issue if you are racing mod motors.
I have also been informed that shaft drive cars can push in corners (dont know if this is true or not) but this is probably also dependent on grip and how well you can set the car up.
Personally i believe that shaft drive cars are more efficient than belt drive cars (i have seen some people say otherwise, which i think is c*&p) and i believe this as i know how far a clean built pro 4 will roll when pushed without a motor. Also as there is no slop or expansion as you would have with a belt drive i also believe that the acceleration is more direct.
Anyway just my thoughts....
I have also been informed that shaft drive cars can push in corners (dont know if this is true or not) but this is probably also dependent on grip and how well you can set the car up.
Personally i believe that shaft drive cars are more efficient than belt drive cars (i have seen some people say otherwise, which i think is c*&p) and i believe this as i know how far a clean built pro 4 will roll when pushed without a motor. Also as there is no slop or expansion as you would have with a belt drive i also believe that the acceleration is more direct.
Anyway just my thoughts....
11-06-2006, 06:35 AM
#291
Latest newsflash....
After reading numerous threads, I finally got the Cyclone dialed in. Pound for pound, I found the Pro4 to be faster BUT the Cyclone felt more like it was on rails. Off the line, the Pro4 blew the Cyclone away. It took my Cyclone a few seconds to get to up to speed but the Pro4, instant launch. I still dont know what that whiiirrr I hear is, but I cant seem to get rid of it (on the Cyclone). Out of the turns, the Cyclone was easier in and out the turns, riding like it was on rails, but the Pro4 punched harder with a little bit more finessing needed to keep it on track. Nonetheless, the Cyclone tracked much straighter than the Pro4 on the straights. Which do I prefer??? I wish there was a car in the middle, but I have to say, I have to lean to the Pro4 (the friggin rear diff on the Cyclone loosened again!). After racing three times against a buddy of mine, we laid it down three times racing one on one using my Cyclone and Pro 4. Swapping cars, the Cyclone one only once. Both cars, set up damn near the same with the only difference being the pitch of the gears and FD. The Cyclone-81/21 48dp FD=9.4 and the Pro4 98/26 64p FD-9.18. Same batteries (6000 Li-Po), same ESC (GTB), same motor(4.5), same rear toe in (HPI 2.5), same radio and receiver (spektrum), same shocks (threaded HPI's). Only difference was the body. The Pro4 had a rather beat up cadillac CTS body and the Cyclone, the Moorespeed. What does this all mean?? I may be looking to trade my Cyclone and all the goodies to get another Pro4!!!!
After reading numerous threads, I finally got the Cyclone dialed in. Pound for pound, I found the Pro4 to be faster BUT the Cyclone felt more like it was on rails. Off the line, the Pro4 blew the Cyclone away. It took my Cyclone a few seconds to get to up to speed but the Pro4, instant launch. I still dont know what that whiiirrr I hear is, but I cant seem to get rid of it (on the Cyclone). Out of the turns, the Cyclone was easier in and out the turns, riding like it was on rails, but the Pro4 punched harder with a little bit more finessing needed to keep it on track. Nonetheless, the Cyclone tracked much straighter than the Pro4 on the straights. Which do I prefer??? I wish there was a car in the middle, but I have to say, I have to lean to the Pro4 (the friggin rear diff on the Cyclone loosened again!). After racing three times against a buddy of mine, we laid it down three times racing one on one using my Cyclone and Pro 4. Swapping cars, the Cyclone one only once. Both cars, set up damn near the same with the only difference being the pitch of the gears and FD. The Cyclone-81/21 48dp FD=9.4 and the Pro4 98/26 64p FD-9.18. Same batteries (6000 Li-Po), same ESC (GTB), same motor(4.5), same rear toe in (HPI 2.5), same radio and receiver (spektrum), same shocks (threaded HPI's). Only difference was the body. The Pro4 had a rather beat up cadillac CTS body and the Cyclone, the Moorespeed. What does this all mean?? I may be looking to trade my Cyclone and all the goodies to get another Pro4!!!!
11-06-2006, 06:00 PM
#292
shaft drives have more efficiancy, because of the shaft. and they do have more of a tendancy to push, yet you can counter that effect by any number of ways, me i always raised the rear of my car 1mm higher than the front so that way more of the wieght was on the front. belt drive cars have a tendancy to "load up" on takeoff, the belt will stretch, even chains to this, loosen the chain on your kids or some kids bike and watch as he pedals it, the chain looks like it loads up, one side will be tight and other will droop, same effect. now for cornering with a belt car, since the momentum on the chassis(not including tires) is forward to rear, it will handle alot better thru corners, whereas a shaft drive momentum is side to side, will not handle as good thru corners, yet this can be overcome with suspension setting and axle lengthening. just like on fwd cars(real ones) when, one axle is longer than the other, it will provide a torque steer problem, now when they take and make an intermediate shaft and put same lenght axles, torque steer is not noticed as much as it was. same thing with shaft rc cars, except you would put longer cvd's on the opposite side of the direction of the main driveshaft. some manufacturer's say that the motor will counter the shaft. some do some dont. it depends on how its layed where the center line of the motor is placed on the chassis vs the driveshaft, yada yada yada. so if you have a driveshaft that is turning clockwise(standing at the rear of the car and looking forward(just like you'd drive a rear car) you would want longer axles on the left side of the car. and vise versa for driveshaft that is turning counterclockwise.
11-07-2006, 03:41 AM
#293
My 3Racing conversion is now 95% complete 
.
Just needs the FF and RR pivot blocks taken from my donor Pro 4, and a couple more 3R upgrades, the carbon body post/bumper support plate and the alloy pulleys.
Photos: http://gazdesigns.fpic.co.uk/c1118301.html
.Just needs the FF and RR pivot blocks taken from my donor Pro 4, and a couple more 3R upgrades, the carbon body post/bumper support plate and the alloy pulleys.
Photos: http://gazdesigns.fpic.co.uk/c1118301.html
11-07-2006, 08:05 AM
#295
Everything went together without any fuss, just spot on. The pictures on the supplied 'manual' are tiny and hard to read, but as you take bits off of the tub, its obvious where everything goes on the chassis.
The screw holes in the bottom deck are countersunk just a fraction more the regular Cyclone and S tub, so the screws shouldn't go silver when scratched. Nice touch.
Mine's built with all 3 stiffeners in place, but its still flexible. More than the black/Hara Cyclone, but a lot less than the tub.
The screw holes in the bottom deck are countersunk just a fraction more the regular Cyclone and S tub, so the screws shouldn't go silver when scratched. Nice touch.
Mine's built with all 3 stiffeners in place, but its still flexible. More than the black/Hara Cyclone, but a lot less than the tub.
11-08-2006, 05:44 AM
#298
Ive just finished installing a bunch of the 3racing hop ups including:
Front/Rear bulkeads
Motor Mount
Heatsink middle chassis
Upper and Lower Deck
Full version - Bulkead Covers
Full Version - Shock Towers front and rear
Universals
Also purchased the Spur Gear adaptor but not installed.
I havent run the car yet but found problems with tolerances in two areas.
When screwing down the bulkhead covers it seems to put so much pressure on the standard plastic diff bearing holders that it causes binding in the drive train. (dont know what to do with this yet....)
The other area where i found was problems was in the aluminium motor mount. The problem here is that the standard spur gear holder fits in way too tight and there is not movement (left/right) and this is also causing binding. I originally had the spur gear shimmed but without the shims it was still too tight. As i already had the Hot Bodies motor mount i put this on along with the plastic/steel brace on the right hand side.
As academygaz mentioned the screw are countersunk a little too far into the chassis. I personally dont like this. The screws which 3racing seem to use have a larger countersunk part.
The main chassis however did come with an antenna holder and also brace parts to help stop the battery moving from side to side. As i found that the screw supplied for the battery braces still stuck out from beneath the chassis i used HPI ones which were slightly longer so that the chassis would sit flat on the table when im setting up and de-tweaking the car.
I also found that the batteries im currently using IB4200WCs seem to be pretty wide compared to last batteries (although the battery bars are also thicker). As a result i wrapped electrical tape around the centre post between the top and main decks, it shouldnt cause a battery to short out but i like to take as many precautions as possible and it was very close to rubbing.
The universals fit the diffs so i guess they are made to the original thickness (not the version 2) and also they didnt come with blades (which i originally thought from an incorrect picture on a site i use).
The decks are 2.5mm thick and the shock towers 3mm.
Overall the aluminium parts are heavier than the plastic however the carbon fibre decks more than make up for any weight gain from these parts.
Dont forget to file down the battery slots on the main chassis and i also found the sides of the carbon fibre parts to be a little splintery so get out the CA and seal off the edges.
Front/Rear bulkeads
Motor Mount
Heatsink middle chassis
Upper and Lower Deck
Full version - Bulkead Covers
Full Version - Shock Towers front and rear
Universals
Also purchased the Spur Gear adaptor but not installed.
I havent run the car yet but found problems with tolerances in two areas.
When screwing down the bulkhead covers it seems to put so much pressure on the standard plastic diff bearing holders that it causes binding in the drive train. (dont know what to do with this yet....)
The other area where i found was problems was in the aluminium motor mount. The problem here is that the standard spur gear holder fits in way too tight and there is not movement (left/right) and this is also causing binding. I originally had the spur gear shimmed but without the shims it was still too tight. As i already had the Hot Bodies motor mount i put this on along with the plastic/steel brace on the right hand side.
As academygaz mentioned the screw are countersunk a little too far into the chassis. I personally dont like this. The screws which 3racing seem to use have a larger countersunk part.
The main chassis however did come with an antenna holder and also brace parts to help stop the battery moving from side to side. As i found that the screw supplied for the battery braces still stuck out from beneath the chassis i used HPI ones which were slightly longer so that the chassis would sit flat on the table when im setting up and de-tweaking the car.
I also found that the batteries im currently using IB4200WCs seem to be pretty wide compared to last batteries (although the battery bars are also thicker). As a result i wrapped electrical tape around the centre post between the top and main decks, it shouldnt cause a battery to short out but i like to take as many precautions as possible and it was very close to rubbing.
The universals fit the diffs so i guess they are made to the original thickness (not the version 2) and also they didnt come with blades (which i originally thought from an incorrect picture on a site i use).
The decks are 2.5mm thick and the shock towers 3mm.
Overall the aluminium parts are heavier than the plastic however the carbon fibre decks more than make up for any weight gain from these parts.
Dont forget to file down the battery slots on the main chassis and i also found the sides of the carbon fibre parts to be a little splintery so get out the CA and seal off the edges.
11-09-2006, 10:36 AM
#299
Originally Posted by Capt.Micro
Academygaz, What happened to your spektrum receiver. It looks like it cought fire. 
11-11-2006, 08:36 AM
#300
well i finally got mine built. i ordered it tuesday got it thursday and its final assembly was today. ive got a few quirks to work out but its nice. i switched from 64p to 48p using AE spurgears. since its raining outside, i had to test drive it inside. how do u guys get your pinion/spur gear mesh set? paper? oh i talked to a hpi rep about the rear belts making noise. mine does it too. he said since its a smaller belt it will stretch into place. i dunno im gonna leave it and see. also what final drive ratio is everyone running?