Spharticus

Hi guys, I modified my kit based on some of your posts. My kit came with bearings for the steering rack, so they must include them in the kit now. As far as breaking the chassis, I used a carbon fiber square tube epoxied to the top of the chassis plate to reinforce the battery side of the chassis to prevent breakage. We'll see how it holds up. I also had a problem with bearing binding, and found out that I cracked the pinion bearing like the other guy did. (Make sure the set screw is all the way in, before installing the pinion top plate.) luckily I bought a bearing kit for another car and it had a spare bearing that fit perfectly. I'll be taking it to the track this week to test and tune. What spur gear are you guys running? trying to figure out what the stock Final drive ratio is. I know the internal ratio is 2.35:1, and it has a 31t pinion, but what T is the spur? trying to get into the 5'ish FDR range. Hobby King doesn't show any options for spur gears. Have any of you changed your spurs from stock?

RotorTruck

iTrader: (2)

I use robinson racing 49t and 55t spur, 48pitch. Also fit the TC4. My track has a 120' straight and I use a 49t spur and 40t pinion, 21.5t Trackstar v2 motor. Had to dremel the motor mount slots in order to move the motor inward. Never broke the chassis or a pinion bearing. You may need to count the teeth on the stock spur.

RetroStyle

Almost finished mine. Just waiting on new front body mounts, and to mod the front bumper to get the Mini Cooper shell on board.... at least it is now running!!

RotorTruck

iTrader: (2)

Looks good, I like the battery forward for more steering. 1* camber front, 2* camber rear, 0 toe makes it easier to drive. Good luck.

RetroStyle

Thanks... working the settings as we speak.

Battery is now forward to about 1/2" from the front of the tray and feel much more balanced (i.e. far less pendulum-like understeer). Need to re-do the soldering too - while it works, it looks a little sub-standard. All in time!

toyranosaur

Well, I'm officially sick of these things. A nice chap PMd me 3 days ago that arms are in stock, but I find nothing, as I have for months.....The idea was, get 2 cars & build them identically so I can try to get my Girl into a bit of RC. So, I upgraded mine, machined custom bits so the steering racks track with No possible drag: Also CNC'd up some metal outdrives for the driveshafts. Got metal diffs & cups, metal pinions, Tamiya ball cups lubed w/Graphite, the list goes on. BUT, why go to the track without a few spares that will break eventually, like suspension arms? They're sitting there all purty & perfect, as they have for 4 months, and my Girl (Who I got the car as her Christmas present) is wondering why we have not got what we need to go try these?

So, I'll throw then in the Shelf Queen collection as they're nice little dustcatchers, & get 2 new cars made by a company- Maybe Traxxas?- that understands that when 1 parts breaks and can't be replaced, that's....Not good. I COULD machine some Al. arms, bit I'm just too pissed off. No more Hobby King 'Deals' for me! I just had to thank the chap that tried to help me out, and vent my justifiable rage. I think they used the wrong letter in the name- Calling it the "N Rage' would have been MUCH more appropriate. Chris REC

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

You may as well at least go to the track and try them out. If nothing breaks, great, but if you do break an arm, then, well, you're not really any worse off than never running the car in the first place.

tony gray

iTrader: (7)

I bought two kits too. One to use, one for spares. When they're that cheap it's the obvious route to go.

Spharticus

Not sure why you are having trouble getting arms. I ordered three extra sets of arms, two sets of Front C- holders, and the kit to lock the front diff. I got those parts last week. I also recently ordered the sway bar kit. They recently received a few parts in stock, but they will be going fast. I'd check again and often. I ordered the aluminum steering rack, but it's back ordered. At least I was able to put an order in on one, as my plastic one is wearing out fast. I'm happy that the Diff locking kit came with metal outdrives.

toyranosaur

Well, I have over a hundred Shelf queens, so not running a car is not an issue- Rather have it scratch-free. And buying a whole other car makes no sense to me- break 1 left front arm & then another later that week, and it's Square 1 all over again. Remember, my Girl has never really driven an RC car, and if she's all worried that a hit with take the car out of the running for an extended period, well.....Might as well have bought a New Bright! (Wait, I think they sell parts for those......)

No matter what, Hobby King does not value my long-term business by not having parts support, period. Really, they should have made a note on the product page that it was an older car and was being phased out, or whatever, before accepting my cash. To give them MORE money for another car is just throwing good money after bad, as they say, Once bitten & all. There are chaps who will put up with that, and that's cool if the car does as well as I've read and you're way into it: But I'm older, have plenty of discretionary income but not a lot of time to waste not driving, and will not put up with BS like this when there are so many competitors available. I imagine I could find an A-arm for an Associated or Traxxas buggy 25 years from now, no prob, as opposed to not being able to get one the same month I build the friggin' car!

As stated, making some for myself from Aluminum or Delrin is an option but, like buying another car, something I should not have to do. They'll have nice paint and stay 100% brand new on the shelf, but I'm done dicking around with this henhouse crap. Chris REC

WagwanBumba

iTrader: (1)

Check m-racing uk - they have arms listed as in stock. Hobbyking gets stock of MRage stuff in all the time. It's not out of production at all but I'm sure when they do come in stock, they do sell out fast - I suspect that m-racing uk are buying their stock from Hobbyking.

Also for the large companies and difficulty finding parts - you get the same problem. Try finding diff outdrives for a TA04.

The car is silly cheap for it to be a shelf queen. You'd spend more money on one of those New Bright cars! These are toys, remotely collectible. If you or your girlfriend is worried about totalling the car, dial down the speed until comfortable and then work your way up. It what I did when I passed the radio to my gf - set the throttle EPA to 70%, it's slow enough that you weren't going to break anything and as she got more comfortable up and away you go until 100%.

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

I'm slowly getting all my TC out for runs. Brushed on 2s works pretty good on our 1/18 course layout

https://youtu.be/f8IbpFKLfQ4

jj_RC

Hi, I wondered if you can help. Im interested in the m.rage, but i want to make it propper quick 60mph+ and im worried about the plastic diff gears and plastic diff joint cups.

in the uk it is hard to find the metal diff joint cups. I have been looking and noticed this part from tamiya.
Tamiya 54056 Tb-03 Aluminum Differential Joint Set Tb03 TB Evolution

is it possible these could fit?? i cant find specs on the parts so its hard to know, Im hoping someone with more experience will have an idea of alternative parts I can source in uk, before I invest in the BSR.. I like the bsr mrage because of the small size...

thanks in advance
JJ

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

Wish I could. I haven't really looked into any kind of upgrades for it. I suggest digging back through this thread. I pretty sure I remember reading about something that worked. I'll dig out the book, see if they give any info on the stock stuff. Let me check another forum, I know another owner.

jj_RC

Cheers man really appreciate it. I have read through forum. As the bsr is a rebrand Nanda, NitroRC sell metal diff joint cups for 6 dollars. Trouble is, I'm in UK and shipping works it out to $50 which isn't worth it! Because so many of these 1 10 are 'Homage'to one another, I'm trying to find an alternative brand that ate using the same parts by another name, that I can source in the UK.. so far with no luck. As the Tamiya 'looks' basically identical I wondered if it's specs are the same. Other wise my alternative is to just drive careful! I was going to get a 10 turn, kv3900 brushless motor and initially run stock gearing. I'm worried even this may be a bit much for the plastic parts... I really want something compact but perhaps I should go with a more standard 1 10 car :-( .