aracefan

iTrader: (70)

Need a little advice...

What 64p spurs fit the Tamiya spur adapter, or, what adapter do I need to be able to run 64p on my FF04 Evo?

Thanks,
-Barry

OSherman

iTrader: (3)

no special adapters needed.. I've used. Kimbrough, RW, ARC and other spurs on my EVO3 and EVO4.. 82t-84t are good for most 21.5 applications..

aracefan

iTrader: (70)

I tried a Kimbrough but the holes didn't line up... Hmm, maybe I didn't have my glasses on - will look at it again. Thanks for the info and quick reply OSherman!

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

Just don't mix up touring car spurs with pan car ones...
Then your described problem will show up.

aracefan

iTrader: (70)

That explains it, I bet I had an F1 (pan car type) spur. i'll try one of my TC7 spurs. I think I have an 86T Kimbrough in my TC7 box.

Thanks guys!!!

aracefan

iTrader: (70)

btw, here is my FF04 Evo with 3Racing Civic on it - these decals were crazy!

[sorry for the crappy cell phone pics]





Bonus FF03R shot!

Tom1977

This thread has made me curious again.

I have now a chance to pull the trigger for either a blue or a black NIB Evo4.

Which would be better? Blue or black edition? I heard the black one has additionally big bores and an aluminium front stiffener.

On the other hand there are not many black anodized hopups available so i will have a black/blue mix. But i guess thats the new 'Tamiya-style'.

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

Just going to throw this out there: If you want a car for off-track running, get a XV-01 instead. You can configure it the same as a FF-04 by not installing the rear transmission parts, and optionally putting the TA-06/TB-04/FF-04 suspension parts on the car. With a plastic chassis it will handle street use a lot better.

If you want it for track use, there's not much difference between the black and blue versions. The big-bore dampers are nice if you care about that sort of thing, and the aluminum front stiffener is nice if you crash on a regular basis, other than that they're the same car. I owned both, but I ended up cannibalizing them and using them to upgrade my XV-01s instead.

With the FF-03 and FF-04 both discontinued, I wonder if Tamiya will make a FF-05 eventually, or if they're done making FWD touring cars. That would be sad, because other companies finally got into the game a couple years ago.

Tom1977

I pulled the trigger now on the black one. Maybe the last NIB-Kit in Europe.

I will use it on track, but just for fun cause we have no official FF-class in Germany. It's my first FF-car and i'm very courious how it will handle. The FF04Evo will have a nice place beside my TRF419x and Evo6 MS.

v_squared

iTrader: (53)

Tom you are in for a treat. Every time I take my ff03 on the track I come off with a huge smile on my face. The biggest thing for me was finding way to lock down the diff so I can put power down. I was running a shorty lipo so I had to move it all the way to the rear. These cars are a blast to drive.

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

It definitely handles differently; very stable when accelerating and braking, though it will skid in a straight line if you brake too hard, and you can't accelerate as hard as you could with a 4WD car. Laser-sharp steering with a tendency to oversteer because there's no power at the rear to push the chassis in a straight line when cornering. It's the pleasant sort of different, though, whereas RWD is much more frustrating unless you have tons of downforce and minimal need for braking, as is the case with F1 cars. Due to the limited grip available for accelerating, I recommend a low-power motor with very high gearing; since you'll be running it on a track, you can leave the gear cover uninstalled to allow a wider range of gearing options. If you're not a racing purist, you can install the XV-01 slipper clutch to help reduce wheelspin when accelerating, though that will limit your spur gear options and make gearing-up more difficult.

As v_squared mentioned, a very stiff front diff is helpful, since diffing-out wastes much more power when there's only two drive wheels. (on RWD diffing-out is still necessary to maintain stability, but on FWD it has no significant benefits.) I actually ran a spool in the front for a while, but as the drive cups started to wear, the extra slop caused the car to exhibit one-wheel-drive tendencies, and it would wander when going in a straight line. I replaced the spool with a diff filled with 200K oil, to allow just enough diff action to ensure both drive cups are engaged against the axle dogbones at all times, and that fixed the wandering issue. I still have front spools in several other cars, but they're all 4WD with rear weight biases, so they have different needs to begin with.

Tom1977

My FF04 EVO Black Edition arrived. I'm very happy that i got the last One.

Any recommendations for motor, gearing, setup?

I've a 13.5t and a 17.5t brushless in my spare box. Wich one would you recommend and what gearing? Internal is very high with 2.6.

And which oil in diff? 1 million?

I ordered a TRF418 sway bar set for the front too.

vlad_sa

In Europe we're driving 13.5t with 4.5 gearing. And lately I don't go over 300k in the diff.

Tom1977

I've built the FF04Evo kit so far.

Is there a good setup for asphalt?

Using black TRF418 swaybar front, the white kit one in the back. Should I go harder in front?

Should i widen the front from xd to xb or xa? Front seems to narrow to me.

Rest of the car is kit standard at the moment.

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

The motor on the FF-04 is higher than it was on the FF-03, so there's a bit more body roll. I generally have good luck with the stiffest swaybar in the front and the medium swaybar in the rear. If that gives too much oversteer, drop down to the softest swaybar in the rear; likewise, if there's too much understeer, drop down to the medium swaybar in the front. I've never found a use for the stiffest swaybar in the rear or the softest swaybar in the front.

If the car is too narrow, go ahead and widen it. As I recall, each step on the TRF toe-block scale increases or decreases width by 0.5mm. I run 1A in the front and 1C/1XA in the rear on all my Tamiya touring cars, except for one that I've widened to 200mm.