5tone

many thank's theman26 ;
doesn't have the spencer rivkin's skills but i will try it ...
with 5k gear diff , lower ride height and maybe lower rear links.

Jon Carlson

iTrader: (48)

Those are the right numbers. Looking at the pic you linked they seem to be included though. I would call and ask someone to be sure before ordering.

No, using the conversion the car will have the 4 gear tranny. You could buy the 3 gear transmission case and 3 gear motor plate though. That's all you'd need to make it 3 gear.

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

Yeah not many do, but its a good starting setup at least!

man1ac

Now I got it! Thanks!
I asked the shop and he looked into the bag, the top shaft and bearings should be included!

On the other hand, I got offered a new B5M CE for 320$ (incl. shipping and taxes). (In € terms: 300€ instead of 349 (379$)). Got me thinking, although repairing a B5 into a B5M and ending up buying a new B5M CE sounds more than insane

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

In the winter its relatively cold where I am and our track is outdoor. To make matters worse we also water the track in the winter so traction is low. For low traction I run a B5M Lite with a 4 gear trans. The set up is close to stock. I changed the springs to black fronts and green rears with 25/22.5 oil....and 3 hole 1.3x3 pistons. I think the only unusual thin I did was run the 2 hole rear hub insert in the outside hole in the low position. I just started running a square pack and the car feels great but the heavy pack does make the car a little slower (I run a 17.5).

Last winter we ran the b5 and b5m all winter long and we all had better average lap times with the B5M. The B5M is faster on all surfaces but requires more tuning.

man1ac

Nice to hear from someone who has driven both! I am not the expert in tuning, but will get there Thanks!

Leadfinger2012

Whats Up All,
Just finishing up my CE build but ran into something. Has anyone else run into this, I'm screwing on my shock eyelets and have noticed, with the 2 limiters in, there isn't enough hole in the eyelets to get to the stroke length the manual asks for. Just me or known issue??? Any input is appreciated!!!!

Kevin

Eddie_E

The stroke length is fine tuned by un-threading the shock eyelet up to 2 turns. My personal opinion is that the lengths in the manual are a mm or 2 long, unless you are running low grip on an 1/8 scale track. Look at a setup sheet for your surface and track size.

65BAJA

I ran the new car for the first time last night. It's a big difference going from 4x4 mod short course to 17.5 buggy. Anyway one thing I noticed was it had very little off power steering. I'm getting full steering lock to lock but the front end just doesn't seem to stick. What should be the first thing to change? It's set up box stock right now.

dirtdog

iTrader: (21)

Tires. Car has lots of steering. Either wait for tires to break in or change tires.

a1

iTrader: (9)

I would say check your limiter size first. I thought I was using the correct size and when I check each limiter it was 1/2mm off. What I thought was 2mm was actually 1.5mm

a1

iTrader: (9)

not enough info but i agree the steering is there you just got to tune it in.

Jerm13

iTrader: (36)

Agree. Tires are always the first and foremost part to tune with.

We ran today, first "race" on the new layout and they didn't prep it. It was dry and dusty as hell. Had quite a bit of a push what we had earlier this week when we dialed the car in. We were running the kit set-up with 2 small changes. I ended up going to a short wheel base and the 2 hole rear hub insert mounted inside hole. Car rotated a ton better but not uncontrollably. May have even needed to go one more hole in, but we were fighting electronics all day. Found out that the controller was the issue.

Svendc

Less push :
Front 45gr bulkhead will help a lot, also going from ball diff to geardiff, with 5000 oil, makes that the car has almost turn on power and going not to soft in oil and springs in rear, this in combo with the slipper tighter gives also more on power steering, and I leave the front 1mm lower than the back. Less rearward traction on power.

duckhead

iTrader: (1)

Was tearing my car down today and noticed the bottom two holes in the front chassis plate were cracked. Has anyone else had this happen to them?

I suspect I might be to blame here too as maybe I tightened them too much? The damage seems mostly cosmetic but I am going to swap it out anyway. Interestingly enough the top two screws are the exact opposite, instead of tightening them all the way it seems you have to just leave them "firm" because too tight and the front bumper buckles under the screw pressure. At any rate, I attached some pictures to show what I am talking about.

I love this latest generation of Associated cars but one complaint I do have is a lot of the screws don't give good purchase feedback when you are screwing them in. Seems sometimes they let you know when they are bottomed out and tight and other screws just seem to not tighten and lock which isn't very confidence inspiring and leaves you to wonder if it is tight or stripped.