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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 09-05-2014, 03:21 PM
  #14131  
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Originally Posted by skrichter
Anyone else have clearance issues with the servo link on your servo case?

I've tried a shorty airtronics and a full size spektrum servo -- they both rub the servo link on the case.
Originally Posted by bilster44
Have you tried the two different thickness spacers that come in the kit, to move the servo forward a bit?
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
remove the washer under the stud and put an oring on the stud on the servo arm. this keeps the arm flatter and less likely to run
Originally Posted by bilster44
Be careful not to get the servo to bell crank drag link in a bind though (because of it's angle)...untamed kitty's idea may get you in the ball park though
Originally Posted by skrichter
I'm already not running the stud on the arm. I think the oring will help, but its still tight.

There has to be something going on here? I saw other folks post they were having issues. Some folks are shaving the horn a bit, others are spacing out the horn to move it away from the servo. But I think we are missing something.
Steve, I just put a Spektrum H6040 in mine. No spacers and had to pull the washer out from under the ball stud on the servo horn. Along with having to position the servo in the mounts so that it sits down into the chassis as far as possible. It's REALLY tight at points, but I have no rubbing.
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Old 09-05-2014, 05:20 PM
  #14132  
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Originally Posted by vr6cj
Thats cause they figured thats how theyll end up anyways after a run or two.
Went through three of them, all not round. One lasted one blip of the throttle, sold it the same day with the last spur gear I had before I set the stupid thing on fire. Have a 44.3 on pre-order, but think the XB4 will be my main racing rig. I don't like center diffs.
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Old 09-05-2014, 05:30 PM
  #14133  
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Originally Posted by Jeepy2013
LoL is right!

Mine was kind of a chuckle when I went to install it. The only issue is I don't have another ball stud to replace it with. I called AE and they told me I needed to fax them a copy of my receipt and a picture of the issue.....geez....

I did that yesterday and haven't heard anything back.
well look at it this way....they are going to send you an entire pack of studs...at least that is what they did to me. lol
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Old 09-05-2014, 06:10 PM
  #14134  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
well look at it this way....they are going to send you an entire pack of studs...at least that is what they did to me. lol
I hope so, it's holding me up now. The LHS didn't have any or I woulda just bought some.
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Old 09-05-2014, 07:24 PM
  #14135  
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Originally Posted by onefast8
Decided to live life on the edge and try the Savox 1251.

Had to do a few things:

1. Remove servo arm ballstud spacer.
2. Remove grommet from servo lead/case. I used a dab of silicone to fill in.
3. Position servo slightly to the left of the car so as to leave a slight gap in the right side mount to clear the servo lead. No case mod/cutting was required. No pinching here, its "just" enough to let the lead come out at 90 Deg.
4. Used one very thin rotor shim to move the arm very slightly off the servo output spline. Under the horn/on top of output spline.
5. Slight shaving on the servo side bottomish side steering link to clear the case. Does not touch at all under full lock.

YMMV.



I like how you cut out the factory battery mount. Not a huge change but gives more options for esc/rec layout. Factory mount is a big waste of space if you run a shorty.
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Old 09-05-2014, 07:36 PM
  #14136  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
this looks interesting...

Looks like light weight slipper plates
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Old 09-05-2014, 07:47 PM
  #14137  
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Originally Posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
Looks like light weight slipper plates
From what I read on the website, it's a self centering so it eliminates the black washers and spring washer. Also is lightened. If you look at the install instructions for the new plates, it previews the unannounced lightweight and vented motorplate.
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Old 09-05-2014, 08:32 PM
  #14138  
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Yes. They are self centered and no more washers. Venting helps with cooling also
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Old 09-05-2014, 09:02 PM
  #14139  
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I picked up some Lunsford tie rods for my B5m that arrives at the end of next week. Should I also get the STRC rear camber link mount and aluminum rear hex's? Any other must have upgrades?
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Old 09-06-2014, 04:32 AM
  #14140  
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Originally Posted by PIIHB!
I picked up some Lunsford tie rods for my B5m that arrives at the end of next week. Should I also get the STRC rear camber link mount and aluminum rear hex's? Any other must have upgrades?
What's wrong with the blue AE aluminum mount? Hexes I like the jconcepts over AE hexes.
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Old 09-06-2014, 07:53 AM
  #14141  
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Nothing's wrong with the AE FT rear brace. I just like the strc stuff. I assumed it came with a plastic one?
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Old 09-06-2014, 07:55 AM
  #14142  
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Originally Posted by PIIHB!
Nothing's wrong with the AE FT rear brace. I just like the strc stuff. I assumed it came with a plastic one?
The kit does come with a plastic rear camber link mount
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Old 09-06-2014, 08:10 AM
  #14143  
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I like STRC stuff to, but for my crawlers / scalers. For My AE vehicles I always run AE FT parts or JConcepts parts.
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Old 09-06-2014, 08:12 AM
  #14144  
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BTW....I decided to upgrade my choice of ESC for the B5m, just ordered a HW XERUN Stock Spec V3.1 black edition.

I'll run the Justock in my RC10 Worlds Car
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Old 09-06-2014, 11:10 AM
  #14145  
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Were there any rear motors at the roar nats or all mm cars in mod?
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