YOKOMO Touring Car BD-7
#3661
Tech Rookie
Hi
How does the 2014 feel compared to the standard bd7.thinking of getting upgrade kit. Also has anyone run the shorter shocks yet?
Marc
How does the 2014 feel compared to the standard bd7.thinking of getting upgrade kit. Also has anyone run the shorter shocks yet?
Marc
#3662
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
This works well for our indoor track in the Philippines:
5.2F/5.2R mm ride height. Low Diff position, Ackerman 1mm, Bump Steer 0.5mm
Front
Spring Ride Red 3rd hole,
Camber link length - short
Inner Camber Link 0 mm spacer,
Camber -1.5,
Outer Camber link, 1 mm,
Droop 6.0
Front suspension blocks,FF 3.5 FR 3.5
Toe = out 0.5,
Sway bar 1.3
Rear
Spring Ride Red 2nd hole,
Camber link length - short
Inner Camber Link 0.5 mm spacer,
Camber -2,
Outer Camber link, 1 mm,
Droop 4.5 ,
Toe = 3 **RF 2.0, RR 6.4 ,
Sway bar 1.2
**plastic arms/graphite knuckles
*shock oil 400-500 using 1.1 (black) pistons
5.2F/5.2R mm ride height. Low Diff position, Ackerman 1mm, Bump Steer 0.5mm
Front
Spring Ride Red 3rd hole,
Camber link length - short
Inner Camber Link 0 mm spacer,
Camber -1.5,
Outer Camber link, 1 mm,
Droop 6.0
Front suspension blocks,FF 3.5 FR 3.5
Toe = out 0.5,
Sway bar 1.3
Rear
Spring Ride Red 2nd hole,
Camber link length - short
Inner Camber Link 0.5 mm spacer,
Camber -2,
Outer Camber link, 1 mm,
Droop 4.5 ,
Toe = 3 **RF 2.0, RR 6.4 ,
Sway bar 1.2
**plastic arms/graphite knuckles
*shock oil 400-500 using 1.1 (black) pistons
looking forward to meet you next week at huge track....
#3663
Tech Rookie
This works well for our indoor track in the Philippines:
5.2F/5.2R mm ride height. Low Diff position, Ackerman 1mm, Bump Steer 0.5mm
Front
Spring Ride Red 3rd hole,
Camber link length - short
Inner Camber Link 0 mm spacer,
Camber -1.5,
Outer Camber link, 1 mm,
Droop 6.0
Front suspension blocks,FF 3.5 FR 3.5
Toe = out 0.5,
Sway bar 1.3
Rear
Spring Ride Red 2nd hole,
Camber link length - short
Inner Camber Link 0.5 mm spacer,
Camber -2,
Outer Camber link, 1 mm,
Droop 4.5 ,
Toe = 3 **RF 2.0, RR 6.4 ,
Sway bar 1.2
**plastic arms/graphite knuckles
*shock oil 400-500 using 1.1 (black) pistons
5.2F/5.2R mm ride height. Low Diff position, Ackerman 1mm, Bump Steer 0.5mm
Front
Spring Ride Red 3rd hole,
Camber link length - short
Inner Camber Link 0 mm spacer,
Camber -1.5,
Outer Camber link, 1 mm,
Droop 6.0
Front suspension blocks,FF 3.5 FR 3.5
Toe = out 0.5,
Sway bar 1.3
Rear
Spring Ride Red 2nd hole,
Camber link length - short
Inner Camber Link 0.5 mm spacer,
Camber -2,
Outer Camber link, 1 mm,
Droop 4.5 ,
Toe = 3 **RF 2.0, RR 6.4 ,
Sway bar 1.2
**plastic arms/graphite knuckles
*shock oil 400-500 using 1.1 (black) pistons
#3664
Hey KS!!! Yes, my favourite same heat opponent! But this time around, I will be running open brushless, not modified - burned too many motors last year hahahaa!
:-) but looking forward to seeing you anyway! I will be in Bangkok on Tuesday!
Hi Mystique,
I use the plastic arms to generate more traction and be more stable. The graphite parts are too nervous on our asphalt and the plastic helps calm the car down a bit. Same level of maximum traction, but graphite suddenly breaks away and very difficult to recover.
And although our track is super smooth, once traction is really high the 5.2 ride height is needed so the chassis doesn't scrub on the track due to more roll generated.
We use Ride RE36 pre mounted tires here, but this setup works well with Sorex 36 also.
Our tire additive is Mighty Grippper. Works with V2 red and v3 blue, there is V3 yellow but I can't seem to get it to work at all.
By the way, I forgot to mention I am using 1 blue o-ring in the shocks.
Hope this works for you as well.
:-) but looking forward to seeing you anyway! I will be in Bangkok on Tuesday!
I use the plastic arms to generate more traction and be more stable. The graphite parts are too nervous on our asphalt and the plastic helps calm the car down a bit. Same level of maximum traction, but graphite suddenly breaks away and very difficult to recover.
And although our track is super smooth, once traction is really high the 5.2 ride height is needed so the chassis doesn't scrub on the track due to more roll generated.
We use Ride RE36 pre mounted tires here, but this setup works well with Sorex 36 also.
Our tire additive is Mighty Grippper. Works with V2 red and v3 blue, there is V3 yellow but I can't seem to get it to work at all.
By the way, I forgot to mention I am using 1 blue o-ring in the shocks.
Hope this works for you as well.
#3665
Tech Rookie
Thanks Mikey for the swift response, I'll definitely give plastic arms a try. Look forward to seeing you in Huge track next week as well =] But I'll be running modified, I burned too many ORCA last year...haha
#3667
If the Huge track's asphalt is treated well and is super flat then it should work, going to play with heavier shock oils this weekend to see if they work since it's a bit hotter in Bangkok now than it is here.
I tried this before and seemed to work with blue/blue Yokomo springs, though didn't test long, was not confidence inspiring...
#3669
I would guess No because the BD5 bulkheads aren't keyed and may not line up with the bulkhead holes on the new chassis. If they did, the diff spacing may not be the same and you would need to find new belts to fit front and rear. Also would mention top deck alignment.
#3671
Tech Initiate
Does any of you guys know where I can get S.L.F. Normal Shock Set for BD7 2014?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#3672
For those whom have not seen the Roche floating servo mount installed:
#3673
Tech Adept
#3674
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
How do you guys get your diffs in the Down position? when i do, the belts are really tight, so i just the cams to adjust the belt's stiffness. I run Blinky 17.5, so i try to make them relatively loose, but not enough that they skip.
- i also make sure my chassis is not tweaked when i tighten the top deck
- i also make sure my chassis is not tweaked when i tighten the top deck