Reflex Suspension Dynamics (RSD) TC6 Upgrades (vertical ball studs, pistons,etc)
#2463
2nd, I can't wait to get my hands on the newer version. as for the top deck, just curious, have you done (I'm guessing you have) any testing w/ the stock xray top decks, and what were your findings w/ both the 1.6 and 2.0. I figured I would ask before I did any testing w/ them, to save time, possibly.lol. how does the RSD top deck change the feeling of the car?
thanks for your time.
#2464
The new version of the chassis needs a new top deck to work properly and eliminate chassis tweak. It is similar to the spec r deck.
I don't use the 1.6 deck because it simply provides too much flex. Our car, with the lowered layshafts and our top deck is one of the most flexible set ups out there.
However, if you make your car too flexible, it gets hard to drive.
I don't use the 1.6 deck because it simply provides too much flex. Our car, with the lowered layshafts and our top deck is one of the most flexible set ups out there.
However, if you make your car too flexible, it gets hard to drive.
#2465
Cristian
I will be running my RSD6.2 at the Stafford Nationals here in the UK (medium grip carpet, fairly technical circuit on sorex 28 with blue inserts) On the 8th December, I have only ran the car on asphalt so far. The last order from yourself should arrive by then meaning I can rebuild the dampers with your 0 rings, 611 pistons and 800 WT oil. I'm looking for some advice on spring choice (I have a full set of your springs), roll bar choice and damper position?
Any help would be much appreciated. I am running 13.5 boosted.
Thanks
Tom
I will be running my RSD6.2 at the Stafford Nationals here in the UK (medium grip carpet, fairly technical circuit on sorex 28 with blue inserts) On the 8th December, I have only ran the car on asphalt so far. The last order from yourself should arrive by then meaning I can rebuild the dampers with your 0 rings, 611 pistons and 800 WT oil. I'm looking for some advice on spring choice (I have a full set of your springs), roll bar choice and damper position?
Any help would be much appreciated. I am running 13.5 boosted.
Thanks
Tom
#2466
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (27)
Do you have a recommended setup sheet for the RX4 on low-medium carpet? This is for racing at Mikes.
Also, I just ordered your RSD replacement driveshafts for the Xray ECSs. Everything is incredibly tight and it won't move freely. I can't get the little coupling piece on the inside back out once I put it in there.
Also, I just ordered your RSD replacement driveshafts for the Xray ECSs. Everything is incredibly tight and it won't move freely. I can't get the little coupling piece on the inside back out once I put it in there.
Last edited by hyujmn; 11-29-2013 at 09:18 PM.
#2467
I don't have a set-up for Mike's. Sorry, but I would start with the default RX4 set-up from the instructions and adjust from there. Maybe softer springs for Mike's? I have not been there in over a year and have never run my XRAY there.
With the DCJs, sometimes they can be a bit tight when new. We put a special coating on them so that they are a little more snug, which increases life. What you need to do is make sure they are greased up with some black grease or Hudy Graphite Grease. Then work the dcj in your hands once assembled a little in each articulating direction. After this, they should free up a bit.
Once they are a bit freer, install in your car. Place your car on a car stand and at a bout 1/4-1/3 throttle, turn your wheels full lock right for 30-45 seconds to each side to break them in. Once you do this, they should be very free and they will be ready to hit the track.
With the DCJs, sometimes they can be a bit tight when new. We put a special coating on them so that they are a little more snug, which increases life. What you need to do is make sure they are greased up with some black grease or Hudy Graphite Grease. Then work the dcj in your hands once assembled a little in each articulating direction. After this, they should free up a bit.
Once they are a bit freer, install in your car. Place your car on a car stand and at a bout 1/4-1/3 throttle, turn your wheels full lock right for 30-45 seconds to each side to break them in. Once you do this, they should be very free and they will be ready to hit the track.
#2469
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (27)
Hey, Christian.
I tried doing what you said with the DCJs. The barrel inside the dogbone is still incredibly tight and won't move at all. I installed it and did the whole "light throttle for 30-45 sec" thing but it continued to bind and eventually the pin just popped out entirely. Now, it's tight to the point that I can't even center the barrel to install the pin through the coupling.
Is there ANYTHING else I could try? The barrel is still ridiculously tight inside the dogbone and I can't install any of the other ones because they're just as tight.
I tried doing what you said with the DCJs. The barrel inside the dogbone is still incredibly tight and won't move at all. I installed it and did the whole "light throttle for 30-45 sec" thing but it continued to bind and eventually the pin just popped out entirely. Now, it's tight to the point that I can't even center the barrel to install the pin through the coupling.
Is there ANYTHING else I could try? The barrel is still ridiculously tight inside the dogbone and I can't install any of the other ones because they're just as tight.
#2470
Tech Addict
iTrader: (19)
Somehow you'll need to press the barrel back out of the bone for now. If you have a set of digital calipers, check the ID of the bone for roundness, as tight of a tolerance these things are engineered with a 0.02 difference in roundness will cause binding issues
What I do any time i am assembling a new set it find a drill bit that's diameter is LARGER than the hole inside the barrel, but SMALLER than the outside of the barrel. Coat the hole with Hudy Graphite grease. After installing the barrel inside the bone, place the tip ( barrel end ) on a hard surface. With the bit in a drill, press the bit against the barrel and spin it while holding the opposite end of the bone. The bit grabs ahold of the barrel and spins it inside the bone. Usually after a minute or two of this there is no longer any sort of resistance whatsoever. I then remove the barrel, coat it with Hudy Graphite grease and re-install. After completing the assembly I chuck the bearing / wheel end of the DCJ into my drill, loosly hold the opposite end of the bone between 3 fingers and spin it at WOT for 2-3 minutes at as much angle as the DCJ will allow. The end result is a completely broken in assembly, super free and ready to race. There is numerous ways everyone sets their stuff up, this is the way that has worked every time for me.
What I do any time i am assembling a new set it find a drill bit that's diameter is LARGER than the hole inside the barrel, but SMALLER than the outside of the barrel. Coat the hole with Hudy Graphite grease. After installing the barrel inside the bone, place the tip ( barrel end ) on a hard surface. With the bit in a drill, press the bit against the barrel and spin it while holding the opposite end of the bone. The bit grabs ahold of the barrel and spins it inside the bone. Usually after a minute or two of this there is no longer any sort of resistance whatsoever. I then remove the barrel, coat it with Hudy Graphite grease and re-install. After completing the assembly I chuck the bearing / wheel end of the DCJ into my drill, loosly hold the opposite end of the bone between 3 fingers and spin it at WOT for 2-3 minutes at as much angle as the DCJ will allow. The end result is a completely broken in assembly, super free and ready to race. There is numerous ways everyone sets their stuff up, this is the way that has worked every time for me.
Last edited by alloyslash; 12-03-2013 at 02:09 AM.
#2471
Hey, Christian.
I tried doing what you said with the DCJs. The barrel inside the dogbone is still incredibly tight and won't move at all. I installed it and did the whole "light throttle for 30-45 sec" thing but it continued to bind and eventually the pin just popped out entirely. Now, it's tight to the point that I can't even center the barrel to install the pin through the coupling.
Is there ANYTHING else I could try? The barrel is still ridiculously tight inside the dogbone and I can't install any of the other ones because they're just as tight.
I tried doing what you said with the DCJs. The barrel inside the dogbone is still incredibly tight and won't move at all. I installed it and did the whole "light throttle for 30-45 sec" thing but it continued to bind and eventually the pin just popped out entirely. Now, it's tight to the point that I can't even center the barrel to install the pin through the coupling.
Is there ANYTHING else I could try? The barrel is still ridiculously tight inside the dogbone and I can't install any of the other ones because they're just as tight.