Team Associated RC8.2e Thread
#4771
Tech Regular
I think you may just be a victim of overtightening the screws. I know its easy to do and I'm not being critical. Start over with a new housing and spur then all new orings. I've been keeping all the shims where the manual recomends and haven't had a problem. Just use lots of grease on the orings and grease the whole gasket both sides. Take your time tighten the screws evenly and you shouldn't have an issue.
#4772
What gearing for a Tekin T8 2050kv motor
#4773
Tech Regular
I run 16/46 with no issues, things get a little warm when I start adding teeth. The 16/46 gives nice bottom end and a nice top speed. You don't run 1/8 at that indoor track at island do you? If you are and are running 3s mb 15 pinion.
#4774
I would suggest building the diff as David Joor suggests. One blue shim on the outdrive externally, then one blue shim on the inside behind the sun gear.
The plastic spur gears have a tendency to warp if used a lot or over tightened. You may want to try a new spur to see if it helps.
My new stuff has been fine, but if it's an older kit, you may want to sand your diff case down so that it makes equal contact with the spur gear on all areas.
I seal the diff gasket off with Associated clear grease. It seems to work really good from my experience.
The plastic spur gears have a tendency to warp if used a lot or over tightened. You may want to try a new spur to see if it helps.
My new stuff has been fine, but if it's an older kit, you may want to sand your diff case down so that it makes equal contact with the spur gear on all areas.
I seal the diff gasket off with Associated clear grease. It seems to work really good from my experience.
I think you may just be a victim of overtightening the screws. I know its easy to do and I'm not being critical. Start over with a new housing and spur then all new orings. I've been keeping all the shims where the manual recomends and haven't had a problem. Just use lots of grease on the orings and grease the whole gasket both sides. Take your time tighten the screws evenly and you shouldn't have an issue.
I did back off and loosen the screws hoping that it would help. I may just try again and see where I get. Is it best to use the black grease or the green slime? I have both and usually just use the green slime on the shock orings. Thanks for your help!
#4775
Tech Regular
Just use some really find grit sandpaper on a flat surface (countertops table whatever) just put the housing face down on the sandpaper and run it over the sandpaper in a figure 8 motion. Don't go crazy putting lots of pressure only sand lightly till the sealing surface looks uniform.
#4776
Just use some really find grit sandpaper on a flat surface (countertops table whatever) just put the housing face down on the sandpaper and run it over the sandpaper in a figure 8 motion. Don't go crazy putting lots of pressure only sand lightly till the sealing surface looks uniform.
#4778
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (2)
I have recently done the camber link mod as well. Instead of modifying the stock tower. I ordered the carbon towers (front and rear) from PSM Option Parts in Germany. They are already made for the camber link option. Also provide added upper shock mounting holes as well. The rear already comes with the "0" holes drilled.
Shipping was really inexpensive. Right around $8 and I had them in my hand with in a week from Germany to Pittsburgh.
Front tower costs around $36.
Rear tower is about $38.
I am unable to post links. But if you go to www . psm-shop . com you will find them by searching for RC8 and the front is the "SPECIAL" tower.
Shipping was really inexpensive. Right around $8 and I had them in my hand with in a week from Germany to Pittsburgh.
Front tower costs around $36.
Rear tower is about $38.
I am unable to post links. But if you go to www . psm-shop . com you will find them by searching for RC8 and the front is the "SPECIAL" tower.
#4779
Tech Regular
Awesome! I'm gonna get those towers for sure.
These towers , the link mods , lundsford punisher ti turnbuckles and hinge pins , tekno v4 conversion , lrp active8 and ix8 (tekin stuff in ft car) this should all make my rtr a badass. If it handles better than my ft car I will put new ft big bores on it and race that while I upgrade the ft car to the same specs.
These towers , the link mods , lundsford punisher ti turnbuckles and hinge pins , tekno v4 conversion , lrp active8 and ix8 (tekin stuff in ft car) this should all make my rtr a badass. If it handles better than my ft car I will put new ft big bores on it and race that while I upgrade the ft car to the same specs.
#4783
Tech Apprentice
hey guys thinking of getting this buggy but dont know what are the known issues with it i heard that someone broke there chassis in half is that common or just a random thing?
what parts should i keep handy what have u broken on yours? what problems have you had?
thanks for the help
what parts should i keep handy what have u broken on yours? what problems have you had?
thanks for the help
#4784
Suspended
iTrader: (23)
hey guys thinking of getting this buggy but dont know what are the known issues with it i heard that someone broke there chassis in half is that common or just a random thing?
what parts should i keep handy what have u broken on yours? what problems have you had?
thanks for the help
what parts should i keep handy what have u broken on yours? what problems have you had?
thanks for the help
#4785
Tech Regular
I have an rtr with 60 hours on it and have not broken a single thing. As far as spares go you need front hub bolts and bushings, the blue plastic shock bushings, some bearings are good to have, diff orings fluids and gaskets and lots and lots of tires lol. This a totally solid car for sure just don't expect to bash the Crap out of it and not break something. If you have a racer mentality and just want to pound laps and go racing this is the car for you. If you want to go to the skate park and jump ridiculous things mb get a vorza.