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Old 12-29-2012, 08:57 AM
  #751  
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Originally Posted by Huskerfan1212
Can someone explain the different in the servo standing vertical vs servo laying horizontal?
It's explained here.
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Old 12-29-2012, 10:40 AM
  #752  
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I believe that there may be an error in the text below the picture that shows angled steering rods. The text says that horizontally mounted servos yield a high degree of rod angle when perhaps it should say vertically-mounted? The horizontal installation in my car yielded acceptably level steering links.
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Old 12-29-2012, 10:59 AM
  #753  
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Oh yes. I agree. The Japanese translator must have horizontal and vertical mixed up.
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Old 12-29-2012, 11:45 AM
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It also doesn't mention that you can adjust Akerman by moving the servo back or forward before fixing it in place.
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX
Juan
Try saving file, and open with latest vers adobe reader
I'll give it a try. Thanks
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Old 12-29-2012, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by AreCee
It also doesn't mention that you can adjust Akerman by moving the servo back or forward before fixing it in place.
The article is just copied directly from TamiyaUSAs site and both just discuss bump steer with no reference at all to ackermann. The front on photo showing the angle of the links has the servo saver mounted much lower than if it was actually on a servo which greatly exaggerates the angle of the links, and to remove bump steer with the servo saver on top you have to add spacers to move the links down to the same height they would be if the servo was mounted vertically. The piece reads more like someone who doesn't actually understand what is happening and taking a wild guess at it.

Vertical servo as in the instructions gives you less ackermann angle, horizontal low profile servo gives you more ackermann. The further forward the links are mounted in the centre the less ackermann you will have.

The vertical servo, so the servo horn is in front, keeps the links as forward as possible at all times, so you get the lowest ackermann angle possible and the outer wheel turns the most when the steering is on full lock. The smaller difference in angle between the two wheels gives you a more aggressive turn in to the corner and more steering at high speed, but can cause understeer exiting corners.

A low profile servo mounted horizontally so the servo output is on top will give you a greater ackermann angle when cornering. This will give less overall steering, but smoother and more consistent steering so easier to drive.
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Old 12-29-2012, 01:25 PM
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Thank you terry. That is what i was looking for. I had it horizontal and now changed to vertical. Getting the car ready for or tcs race.
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Old 12-30-2012, 09:27 AM
  #758  
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Less ackerman = Toe in=More steering=oversteer on exit.
No?



Originally Posted by terry.sc

... you get the lowest ackermann angle possible and the outer wheel turns the most when the steering is on full lock. The smaller difference in angle between the two wheels gives you a more aggressive turn in to the corner and more steering at high speed, but can cause understeer exiting corners.
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Old 12-30-2012, 03:05 PM
  #759  
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Looking for a good base line set up for foam tires on med/high grip carpet. Also roll out for 21.5 blinky. (I am running 190mm wide, if it makes a difference)

Thanks,
Slow
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:50 PM
  #760  
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Went and practiced some more today. As you can tell by the pics the roughness of the track. Im running the pits front and back and its pushes just as bad as the rides f1 tires. I added the aluminum rear diffuser and lower plate and it did gain traction in sections where I would spin out before. Everything is stock according to the manual at the moment, but I did get the front and side springs yesterday so if anyone has a suggestion please do tell.

Pitch damper has 30 oil and 20 the side one. God I love this class!!!
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Old 12-30-2012, 09:38 PM
  #761  
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anyone got a ver 2 pro they would like to sell? Roller or artr, shipping within the US
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Old 12-31-2012, 01:43 AM
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right i have a issue is there anyway to stop my pit shimizus ripping near where they are glued on tamiya foam rims???will the ride rims eliminate this please help thanks
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Old 12-31-2012, 03:36 AM
  #763  
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Originally Posted by tamiya-2012nz
right i have a issue is there anyway to stop my pit shimizus ripping near where they are glued on tamiya foam rims???will the ride rims eliminate this please help thanks
This can be a problem but can be minimised by sanding the edge of the rim before gluing the tyres. For more tyre info see here.
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Old 12-31-2012, 07:15 AM
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Went and practiced some more today. As you can tell by the pics the roughness of the track. Im running the pits front and back and its pushes just as bad as the rides f1 tires. I added the aluminum rear diffuser and lower plate and it did gain traction in sections where I would spin out before. Everything is stock according to the manual at the moment, but I did get the front and side springs yesterday so if anyone has a suggestion please do tell.

Pitch damper has 30 oil and 20 the side one. God I love this class!!!
I can see the dirt on your tires in the pix...you might want to add some weight...is the car both loose and pushing? Pink side springs with some pre load may be in your future
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Old 12-31-2012, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by robk
I can see the dirt on your tires in the pix...you might want to add some weight...is the car both loose and pushing? Pink side springs with some pre load may be in your future
Yup its a tad dusty, oh and that was sunny practice wait until its cloudy with 45 degree asphalt. I dont think its loose has ok rear traction. I have the metal lower pod and difuser as weight down low. This was with shorty pack all the way in back but maybe full size stick pack to put weight at front? Been reading the links posted a few pages back

Ill try your suggestions, thanks
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