flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

Hey Cain, not much there will transfer over, you can buy a different slipper shaft kit, that will let you use ae spurs, but the RW or Td ones are fine..If you want..

blingy

iTrader: (6)

well i got my 8-racing chassis on last night and i have to much pack now has anyone hadto do alot of setup changes after switching, like pistons and oil knocking 70 grams is alot. thnx

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Okay thanks for the info. Will package up that stuff to sell then to my buddy who runs AE still.

So, what is the consensus on the stock Alloy chassis for high grip like carpet? is it worth using or not?

jackcarter3

iTrader: (6)

Building up a MM4 car and the gearbox was tight. Too tight. Anyone else have to massage the gearboxes a little to get them to spin freely? I tried 2 different gearboxes and they were both too tight in the 4 gear configuration. Any feedback would be helpful. A buddy took a little material out of both sides and it's much better, just wondering if this is common?

flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

Hmm, I have 2 complete built trans, one RM4, the other RM3. I have yet to try MM4, but I may do some testing with it soon. The newer built (RM3) is tighter than the RM4..maybe an over tightened case screw, or a spacer missed? Where did you remove the material?

jackcarter3

iTrader: (6)

It was too tight with no screw in and the cases held together. No spacers were missed. We removed material in one of the holes the shafts goes into. It gave the gear a bit of room to move and freed it up considerably.

flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

Are you running the ball diff, or gear?

jackcarter3

iTrader: (6)

Ball diff.

Fred Perkins

iTrader: (264)

Check the layshaft bearing too. I installed 2 5x8x2.5 instead of one.

flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

They did have a discrepancy with that bearing in the earlier kits from what I remember..

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

There should be no clearance issues running MM4 over RM3. Start removing each individual part until the case halves fit properly. My guess is that either the bearings in the mid gears aren't fully seated or you have more diff shims than you think...the thin copper ones are super thin.

MikeFriery

iTrader: (19)

Blingy- i have not run this chassis but do have alot of experience with running carbon parts in 1/8th scale, and yes you will need to run less pack/softerspring/softer oil. You may also need to make a few small changes due to the lack of flex on the chassis.. Carbon Chassis will still flex a little.. but then tend to SNAP back into place .. its hard to describe, but they do drive differently than aluminum or plastic chassis.

dubum

iTrader: (85)

I bought my son the RTR for his B-day on Saturday and we took it to the track on Sunday. I don't know why, but the front of the chassis is already broken at the first 4 screws. It really sucks as I thought this was going to be a pretty durable vehicle. He wasn't abusing it that I know of, just typical track time. He is not a newb and knows about throttle control and proper jumping procedure. Just putting that out there
(2 questions)

1. Does anybody think Team Durango will warranty the chassis as some sort of defect? I mean c'mon, it's crazy!

2. What extra parts would I need to convert to the aluminum chassis? As everything on the RTR is molded into the plastic chassis.

Thank you

mdhyams

iTrader: (15)

So I am running the D3 with 28/75 and 55 deg of boost. Does that sound about right or do I need more gear?

underway

iTrader: (56)

Anybody seen this where the thrust washer will not fit onto the screw? This is the second issue with this build that has brought me to a halt...