Serpent S411
#4096
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (5)
So it seems everyone has gone crazy with coming up with mods to secure the steering servo from the top rather than the chassis. I think we have a pretty good system right now, but do a couple of mods to it, that I think add to the car.
First, I still hack stuff pretty well, so I still use a servo saver, but, to get the clearence for the saver I take a drum sander and notch the servo mount so the servo saver sits in a hollowed out part of the mount. I'll take this down so that at its thinnest point it is one layer of laminent, similar to the thickness of the motor depression on the chassis.
The other thing I do, is eliminate the button head screw on the outer portion of the servo mount. This one I actually counter sink so that you can use a cs screw, which moves it up considerably and pretty much eliminates any chance of touching surface on hard roll situations. Just be carefull when doing this as there isn't much material to work with there and you can easily burn thru it and mess up the mount. I use a old well worn dremel grinding stone that is very close to the proper pitch of the screw head.
First, I still hack stuff pretty well, so I still use a servo saver, but, to get the clearence for the saver I take a drum sander and notch the servo mount so the servo saver sits in a hollowed out part of the mount. I'll take this down so that at its thinnest point it is one layer of laminent, similar to the thickness of the motor depression on the chassis.
The other thing I do, is eliminate the button head screw on the outer portion of the servo mount. This one I actually counter sink so that you can use a cs screw, which moves it up considerably and pretty much eliminates any chance of touching surface on hard roll situations. Just be carefull when doing this as there isn't much material to work with there and you can easily burn thru it and mess up the mount. I use a old well worn dremel grinding stone that is very close to the proper pitch of the screw head.
#4097
Tech Apprentice
Diff Leak
I supose you are talking about the Outdrives small o-ring, arent you ?
I don't thing the problem is there.
It's seam like the big o-ring is the problem. For some reason this o-ring is not sealing well enough even when thread the screws.
There are some more guys having the same issue here in our local track.
Its not so simple to fix.
Need more tips...
Thank you
CC
#4098
Johnny,
I supose you are talking about the Outdrives small o-ring, arent you ?
I don't thing the problem is there.
It's seam like the big o-ring is the problem. For some reason this o-ring is not sealing well enough even when thread the screws.
There are some more guys having the same issue here in our local track.
Its not so simple to fix.
Need more tips...
Thank you
CC
I supose you are talking about the Outdrives small o-ring, arent you ?
I don't thing the problem is there.
It's seam like the big o-ring is the problem. For some reason this o-ring is not sealing well enough even when thread the screws.
There are some more guys having the same issue here in our local track.
Its not so simple to fix.
Need more tips...
Thank you
CC
If I remember correctly there was a bad batch of diff housings, but don't remember the exact details about them though as I never ran into that problem.
Which kits did these diffs come in or are you all on the TE cars?
#4099
You have photos send for me - [email protected]
#4100
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
I do the green grease on the big o ring as well.
If I remember correctly there was a bad batch of diff housings, but don't remember the exact details about them though as I never ran into that problem.
Which kits did these diffs come in or are you all on the TE cars?
If I remember correctly there was a bad batch of diff housings, but don't remember the exact details about them though as I never ran into that problem.
Which kits did these diffs come in or are you all on the TE cars?
The most important thing is using a properly-sized screwdriver and FULLY tighten the screws in an alternating pattern.
#4101
I have 3 diffs all from the original kits.... even after numerous rebuilds and using as light as 650cst oil, I have yet to see a leak issue. This includes the fact that I haven't changed the o-rings, either.
The most important thing is using a properly-sized screwdriver and FULLY tighten the screws in an alternating pattern.
The most important thing is using a properly-sized screwdriver and FULLY tighten the screws in an alternating pattern.
#4102
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
when building the diff make sure you sand the flat sides so that they fit flush to each other. I noticed some had mold flashes that causes leaks and wobbly movement.
do not overfill your diff.
#4103
?? please explain, not something shown in the stock diff instructions. I've only seen a extra hole in the Exceede diffs, is that the same hole you're talking about? Thanks
#4105
#4106
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
this causes you to think everything is snug but it is not as you are trying to tighten screw over the compressed oil and you diff stays loose and you leak oil.
properly built diff will only loose oil through the o rings around the outdrives after sometime as the o rings start to wear and the mechanical motion carries some oil out.
#4107
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
ı forgot to mention, there is a tech tip out actually on the subject already. justunder a differnt car
http://serpent.com/product/804005/tech-tips/
http://serpent.com/product/804005/tech-tips/
#4108
Tech Apprentice
Hi.
About leaking diffs. and the big O-ring.
All new batch of diffs. are delivered with a new big O-ring. The new O-ring is made of silicone (same material as the x-ring in the diffs.) and is slightly bigger in the material than the old black one. I have no leaking at all with the new O-ring. Soon you can order the new O-ring as a spare part. Serpent told me, that they should be available this week. I don't know the order no. yet.
With the old black O-ring you can use Asso greenslime to prevent leaking as some other mentioned. It really helps. Also be sure to tighten the screws even not to flex the diff. cups.
When I assemble the diff. i sand all gears on the backside. Especially the two big metal gears, as I want to have slightly less pressure on the x-ring to let the outdrives run smoother. Then I use Tamiya blue damper grease on the x-ring, but you can also use Asso greenslime. As I wrote above, I have no problems with leaking.
About leaking diffs. and the big O-ring.
All new batch of diffs. are delivered with a new big O-ring. The new O-ring is made of silicone (same material as the x-ring in the diffs.) and is slightly bigger in the material than the old black one. I have no leaking at all with the new O-ring. Soon you can order the new O-ring as a spare part. Serpent told me, that they should be available this week. I don't know the order no. yet.
With the old black O-ring you can use Asso greenslime to prevent leaking as some other mentioned. It really helps. Also be sure to tighten the screws even not to flex the diff. cups.
When I assemble the diff. i sand all gears on the backside. Especially the two big metal gears, as I want to have slightly less pressure on the x-ring to let the outdrives run smoother. Then I use Tamiya blue damper grease on the x-ring, but you can also use Asso greenslime. As I wrote above, I have no problems with leaking.
#4109
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
Hi.
About leaking diffs. and the big O-ring.
All new batch of diffs. are delivered with a new big O-ring. The new O-ring is made of silicone (same material as the x-ring in the diffs.) and is slightly bigger in the material than the old black one. I have no leaking at all with the new O-ring. Soon you can order the new O-ring as a spare part. Serpent told me, that they should be available this week. I don't know the order no. yet.
With the old black O-ring you can use Asso greenslime to prevent leaking as some other mentioned. It really helps. Also be sure to tighten the screws even not to flex the diff. cups.
When I assemble the diff. i sand all gears on the backside. Especially the two big metal gears, as I want to have slightly less pressure on the x-ring to let the outdrives run smoother. Then I use Tamiya blue damper grease on the x-ring, but you can also use Asso greenslime. As I wrote above, I have no problems with leaking.
About leaking diffs. and the big O-ring.
All new batch of diffs. are delivered with a new big O-ring. The new O-ring is made of silicone (same material as the x-ring in the diffs.) and is slightly bigger in the material than the old black one. I have no leaking at all with the new O-ring. Soon you can order the new O-ring as a spare part. Serpent told me, that they should be available this week. I don't know the order no. yet.
With the old black O-ring you can use Asso greenslime to prevent leaking as some other mentioned. It really helps. Also be sure to tighten the screws even not to flex the diff. cups.
When I assemble the diff. i sand all gears on the backside. Especially the two big metal gears, as I want to have slightly less pressure on the x-ring to let the outdrives run smoother. Then I use Tamiya blue damper grease on the x-ring, but you can also use Asso greenslime. As I wrote above, I have no problems with leaking.
#4110
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Black (16.0) front and grey rear is a good combo, too, but I typically like the car to be really smooth.
As for swaybars..... 1.2 rear/1.4 front is the default.