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U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2

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Old 06-05-2012, 04:30 PM
  #916  
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I found a driver -

U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2-ride-2-copy.jpg

I suppose I could duck tape him to the roof...
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Old 06-05-2012, 05:22 PM
  #917  
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Originally Posted by Rozzt_iwa
any one know were to get VTA tyres cheap that also dose 3racing sakura zero parts ?
Try these guys. They may also have 3racing Sakura zero parts as well.
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Old 06-05-2012, 10:30 PM
  #918  
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hope nobody gets mad for these ?'s

1. should I delete my original subscription to 1st VTA thread?
2. I have a brand new Factory team TC4 double deck carbon fiber car, which is better for VTA? FT TC4 carbon fiber or TC4 Tub chassis?
3. any tips on either of these cars? Yes I know they are old! but wanted to try VTA to learn how to drive!
So, any mods, gearing, setups, etc... would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!
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Old 06-05-2012, 10:59 PM
  #919  
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Originally Posted by beemerfan
Not trying to drum up a new debate here, just adding to the general knowlege base. Since the C rating thing has come up so many times in the past, I bought one of these gizmos from HobbyPartz that measures wattage and current draw. I believe it is fairly accurate and I wanted to measure the actual peak draws of a VTA car. We've figured in the past that the average is about 10 - 12 amps but the peak draw is where the C rating comes in to play. So the results...

About 20 amps!

I started by doing several burnouts to simulate a race start or when you get going after a mishap. The meter actually maxed out at 29.9 amps for that.

Then I did 3 runs with smooth rolling starts to avoid a big draw and ran about 5 to 10 laps per run.

Run 1: 19.5 amps
Run 2: 20.4 amps
Run 3. 19.6 amps

This was on a big track using a Novak GTB speed control, a Ballistic 25.5 motor set to 45 degrees of timing and geared at 3.32 FDR.

This means you need a 6C 5000 mAh battery to cover those peak draws of hard acceleration and a little more than 4C everywhere else. Combine this with Darkside's recent test of his Reedy 25C Wolfpack outperforming a much higher rated pack, and it's a pretty strong argument that C ratings don't matter in VTA. 20 to 25 C packs are more than good enough for this class.
One key thing missing from your assessment is the voltage under load. Based on what you said, yes, a 6C pack would survive being run in a VTA car. However, a pack with a higher C rating (assuming the rating is accurate and not just marketing fluff)will maintain a higher voltage under the peak loads. The motors rpm is based on the voltage input to them. So the pack that can maintain the higher voltage under load will give faster acceleration and higher top speeds. It may be less noticeable if the amp draw is fairly low but there will still be a difference.

A pack with a higher true C rating will always have an advantage over a lesser pack. The gap narrows in the lower current applications like VTA but its still better to have a stronger pack.

It looks like that device you are using can measure peak watts as well as peak amps. Watts are V x A, so at the same amp draw a pack that holds better voltage would output more watts(power). Thus faster acceleration and higher top speeds. It would be interesting to compare and old 20C pack to one of the new 60+C packs. I'm sure you would be able to measure the difference.
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Old 06-06-2012, 04:53 AM
  #920  
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Originally Posted by fpart
I wanna know what Scooby is doing with that car. Is he teching it since Kaybo is not there?
i can't believe you said scooby and tech in the same sentenance...

i'm fairly certain, at from my sources at the event, he was touching up the orange paint on his RS, so that it passed for a GTB2

yeah, well, that's what happens when you have a life outside of racing - its gets in the freakin' way of racing
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Old 06-06-2012, 06:11 AM
  #921  
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Originally Posted by jhautz
One key thing missing from your assessment is the voltage under load. Based on what you said, yes, a 6C pack would survive being run in a VTA car. However, a pack with a higher C rating (assuming the rating is accurate and not just marketing fluff)will maintain a higher voltage under the peak loads. The motors rpm is based on the voltage input to them. So the pack that can maintain the higher voltage under load will give faster acceleration and higher top speeds. It may be less noticeable if the amp draw is fairly low but there will still be a difference.

A pack with a higher true C rating will always have an advantage over a lesser pack. The gap narrows in the lower current applications like VTA but its still better to have a stronger pack.

It looks like that device you are using can measure peak watts as well as peak amps. Watts are V x A, so at the same amp draw a pack that holds better voltage would output more watts(power). Thus faster acceleration and higher top speeds. It would be interesting to compare and old 20C pack to one of the new 60+C packs. I'm sure you would be able to measure the difference.
I mostly agree with you. I was really just after the peak draw of a VTA car and not trying to spark any new debate over this old topic. I would never advocate anyone using a 6C pack in a race, but I think that 25C packs are more than enough for VTA and any advantage of a higher rated pack would be negligible. Plus we have that whole "warming" theory that the lower rated pack warms up faster and delivers more current at the end of a run as Darkside's track test would suggest. I'll tinker with the device some more and next time I'll look at the wattage figures. I'll get hold of a newer 65C pack that I can compare to some older 25C packs I have. I'm curious to see those results as well.

Last edited by beemerfan; 06-06-2012 at 08:35 AM.
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Old 06-06-2012, 08:15 AM
  #922  
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Chassis for VTA, for sale http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...iced-move.html
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Old 06-06-2012, 11:52 AM
  #923  
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Originally Posted by jhautz
One key thing missing from your assessment is the voltage under load. Based on what you said, yes, a 6C pack would survive being run in a VTA car. However, a pack with a higher C rating (assuming the rating is accurate and not just marketing fluff)will maintain a higher voltage under the peak loads. The motors rpm is based on the voltage input to them. So the pack that can maintain the higher voltage under load will give faster acceleration and higher top speeds. It may be less noticeable if the amp draw is fairly low but there will still be a difference.

A pack with a higher true C rating will always have an advantage over a lesser pack. The gap narrows in the lower current applications like VTA but its still better to have a stronger pack.

It looks like that device you are using can measure peak watts as well as peak amps. Watts are V x A, so at the same amp draw a pack that holds better voltage would output more watts(power). Thus faster acceleration and higher top speeds. It would be interesting to compare and old 20C pack to one of the new 60+C packs. I'm sure you would be able to measure the difference.
Any Chinese 25c pack is way more than capable of handling the load from a VTA car. Voltage is about the last consideration. Internal resistance is what will be of greatest importance, considering if you use 1200mAh on a 4000 pack, it's barely more than 1/4 of rated capacity. You're still in a pretty flat part of the curve.

If this really concerns you, the real test would be 2 new packs. Same capacity, one 35c one 60c. As it has been mentioned before, some of the battery gurus/oval racers recommend lower C rated packs since they heat up and produce more voltage.....As usual, i recommend everybody make sure their cars are completely dialed in first so you're not wasting all that massive horsepower...
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Old 06-06-2012, 03:15 PM
  #924  
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Originally Posted by robk
Any Chinese 25c pack is way more than capable of handling the load from a VTA car. Voltage is about the last consideration. Internal resistance is what will be of greatest importance, considering if you use 1200mAh on a 4000 pack, it's barely more than 1/4 of rated capacity. You're still in a pretty flat part of the curve.

If this really concerns you, the real test would be 2 new packs. Same capacity, one 35c one 60c. As it has been mentioned before, some of the battery gurus/oval racers recommend lower C rated packs since they heat up and produce more voltage.....As usual, i recommend everybody make sure their cars are completely dialed in first so you're not wasting all that massive horsepower...
It doesn't really concern me.. But I am always curious about how theories play out in the real world, so understanding if the higher C rated batteries actually do put out more power (watts) in the same real world car/setup is interesting to me at least. I was only pointing out that just because he calculated that you only NEED a 6C pack to deliver the current required to supply a typical VTA setup and prevent the battery from being damaged, a pack rated that low would certainly perform noticeably poorer than a high C rated pack. I agree, all of this voltage holding/internal resistance discussion is splitting nano seconds. I still need to work on the full seconds with setup and skillz... LOL


But since you brought it up...
Internal resistance is what determines a cells capability of holding voltage under load. The lower the internal resistance, the higher the discharge capabilities, and the better the cell will hold higher voltage under load.

The full cycle discharge curve of a 4000mah pack (or the portion of the full discharge curve that actually gets used) has nothing to do with this. All we are talking about is ability of a lipo cell to hold voltage under a peak load. Yes a cells voltage/performance does drop off at the tail end of full pack discharge, but that is not the discussion since as you stated we barely use a quarter of the full discharge capability.

If you believe that the lower C cells "warm up" faster and then discharge better, why not store your higher C rated packs in a bag with one of those chemical hand warmer pouches and warm them up before using them? Then you wont have to wait for them to warm up. To me this whole train of logic doesn't make sense. If the cells are warming up then its because they are being stressed due to higher internal resistance and the system is asking for more power than the pack can deliver comfortably. When the cell warms up, the internal resistance drops a little and allows it to hold voltage under load a little better. The higher C rated packs can already hold that higher voltage so they aren't as stressed and they dont warm up as much..... because they don't need too! But, I honestly cant imagine really warming up any reasonably decent lipo in use for a VTA car. They just don't require that much power.


But hey.... whatever you believe makes you faster probably does, just from a confidence standpoint. So I say do whatever makes you comfortable.

Last edited by jhautz; 06-06-2012 at 04:18 PM.
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Old 06-06-2012, 03:51 PM
  #925  
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Originally Posted by boudin4evr
hope nobody gets mad for these ?'s

1. should I delete my original subscription to 1st VTA thread?
2. I have a brand new Factory team TC4 double deck carbon fiber car, which is better for VTA? FT TC4 carbon fiber or TC4 Tub chassis?
3. any tips on either of these cars? Yes I know they are old! but wanted to try VTA to learn how to drive!
So, any mods, gearing, setups, etc... would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!
Here's my two cents:

1. I would keep the subscription to the 1st VTA thread so that you could always go back to it for reference if needed.
2. If you already have the double carbon fiber deck installed on your TC4, keep it. The original TC4 tub chassis leaves you less room to install electronics. Plus the carbon fiber deck is more resilient to chassis tweak that may result from crashes during a VTA race.
3. The TC4 makes a great VTA car. To start off make sure that the number of teeth on your Spur gear is about 1.6 times the number of teeth on your Pinion gear (for example, a 90-tooth Spur and 56-tooth Pinion). That will give you an FDR of 4.0, which is the perfect starting point for any VTA racer.
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Old 06-06-2012, 06:54 PM
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A cells State of Charge (SOC) will determine its capability to hold voltage under load.

A cells overall State of Health (SOH) will also play a factor typically as well (effects due to number of charge cycles, rate of charge, number of deep discharges, cell temperatures, etc).

Power (Watts) does = V * I, but if the motor draws 20A the 5000mAH 25C and the 65C battery (of same voltage) will produce the same amount of overall power.

For racing (like VTA), the battery capacity is what I'm interested in most. I want to stay in the SOC sweet spot as long as possible. This means my average power throughout the 8 minute race will be greater and maybe help me win that drag race to the finish line (assuming I drove perfectly for 7:59) .
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Old 06-06-2012, 07:30 PM
  #927  
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Smile First VTA Car

Hey all! Im new to VTA, and this is my first body/car for it! I have a TC5R with the '69 Camaro I just painted up. Its got a Novak GTB under the hood, and the ballistic 25.5. Naturally I decided to paint it up like other bodies in my fleet modeled after my family's pride and joy! I have additional pictures in the older thread if anyone is interested! Thanks for looking!
Attached Thumbnails U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2-upload-june-6-2012-008.jpg   U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2-upload-june-6-2012-018.jpg   U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2-upload-june-6-2012-005.jpg   U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2-upload-june-6-2012-013.jpg   U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2-upload-june-6-2012-016.jpg  

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Old 06-06-2012, 09:41 PM
  #928  
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Hey guys, I was looking at the Novak GTB2 w/ x-drive earlier today. Was wondering if anybody uses it in USVTA? I'm using the Edge 2s. Seems to be working great, just curious to see if the GTB2 x-drive is a better performing ESC?

I'd like to hear fellow USVTA racers opinions on this.

Thanks
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Old 06-06-2012, 09:57 PM
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GTB 2 GETS X-DRIVE!
Novak X-Drive™ has arrived in a major way, and is taking the racing world by storm! This new technology has now been added to the tried-and-true GTB 2 platform, and is here to stay. Novak is pleased to introduce two new racing speed controls—the GTB 2 Racing w/X-Drive (#1749) and the GTB 2 Racing w/X-Drive- Low Profile (#1748).


The GTB 2 Racing ESC w/X-Drive is also available with a low-profile heat sink (#1748)
WHAT IS X-DRIVE™?
Novak-developed X-Drive™ is the newest motor-firing technology. This revolutionary firmware and hardware delivers unmatched performance and provides:

Unparalleled throttle response
Smooth and controlled braking
Cooler operating temperatures
Faster lap times
More power for nearly all applications
Customers and team drivers who have used X-Drive in side-by-side comparisons report a noticeable performance advantage. This update not only makes your speed control more efficient, it may very well make you faster and put you on the podium!

THE IDEAL SPEC ESC
Novak’s original GTB, and its successor the GTB 2, have been staples at race tracks all over the world. The GTB 2 platform offers the perfect ESC for almost any class of racing from local Sportsman club racing, to Pro Modified 4X4 Short Course, to any form of on-road racing. The GTB 2 excels in the non-ramping /non-timing Spec Classes and can easily handle the demands of modified 540 and 550-sized motors. It has no built-in timing or motor-ramping features so there is no need to worry about firmware versions, lights or blinks. The GTB 2 is Spec Legal!

LOADED WITH FEATURES
The GTB 2 w/X-Drive has everything you need. If you want to fine-tune the feel and response of the ESC, there are 9 on-board adjustments using the One-Touch button. There is no complicated PC programming or use of external programming devices. The GTB 2X w/X-Drive also features NovaBrakes™. This revolutionary braking system provides instantaneous and unbelievably smooth brake response for every application. In addition to thermal protection, the GTB 2 w/X-Drive has on-board temperature monitoring circuitry. Racers can check their ESC’s temperature during or after each run.

GTB 2 RACING ESC WITH X-DRIVE FEATURES
Designed specifically for all forms of 1/10th scale racing
Sensor-based ESC for excellent torque and low-speed driveability
Nine adjustable parameters to maximum performance on the track: Minimum Brake (10 settings), Drag Brake (10 settings), Minimum Drive (10 settings), Dead Band (5 settings), Throttle Curve (Linear/Expo), Brake Curve (Linear/Expo), Brake Frequency (10 settings), Brake End-Point (10 settings), and Drive Frequency (10 settings). Interface also features Reverse Disable and Motor Rotation
Novak X-Drive™ provides enhanced throttle response, ultra smooth power delivery, higher top speeds, and cooler operating temperatures
NovaBrakes™ provide instantaneous braking under any condition
Novak's One-Touch Set-Up™ for quick and easy transmitter set-up
Robust, 3-amp, true-spec BEC for strong and fast steering response under any condition
Designed to meet ROAR Sportsman Class Racing specifications
Highly water-resistant case with protective silicone gasket seal to help keep out the elements
Built-in Voltage Cut-Off circuitry prevents damage to LiPo/LiFe batteries
On-board diagnostic temperature monitoring that lets you quickly check the ESC's temperature at any time
Thermal overload protection circuitry to protect from overheating
On-board Hall Sensor Test to easily and quickly verify that the motor's sensors are working properly
Cross-cut ESC heat sink (#1749 model) for reduced weight and efficient cooling
Gold-plated direct-solder wiring tabs for flexible soldering options
User-replaceable input and switch harnesses
Carries Team Novak’s commitment to excellent quality, support and warranty (120 days)
Designed and manufactured by Team Novak in Irvine, California using the best components from around the globe. All ESCs are 100% tested to ensure your product works right out of the box and on the track!

GTB 2 RACING ESC WITH X-DRIVE SPECIFICATIONS
Motor Type: Sensored Brushless
Fwd/Brk/Rev: F / B / R
Input Cells: 1*-2S LiPo/LiFe or 4-6 NiMH
Footprint 1.16” x 1.47” (29.5 x 37.3 mm)
Height #1748: 0.70” (17.8mm); #1749: 0.97” (24.6mm)
Weight (w/o wires) #1748: 1.15 oz. (32.6 g); #1749: 1.29 oz (36.6 g)
On-Resistance: 0.00040 ohms @ 25°C trans. temp.
Motor Compatibility (#1748 model): 540-Size: 8.5-turn or higher sensored; 550-Size: 6.5-turn or higher sensored
Motor Compatibility (#1749 model) 540-Size: 3.5-turn or higher sensored; 550-Size: 4.5-turn or higher sensored
BEC: 6.0 volts DC / 3.0 amps
Wire Size: 14G Super-Flex Copper-Strand Silicone Wire
Status LEDs: 5 multi-colored
*For 1S applications, a receiver battery pack or a receiver booster such as Novak's #5477 1S Booster Module must be used.
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Old 06-06-2012, 09:59 PM
  #930  
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The EDGE 2S Brushless ESC (#1850-#1851) is truly a combination of affordability and performance. This ESC is perfect for all types of racing, including 2WD Short Course, Off-Road, On-Road and Sportsman classes. Featuring simple and easy-to-use on-board programming, diagnostic tools, and temperature protection, this ESC has it all. At a price under $100, it is hard to find an ESC with comparable features. So, get the edge on the competition!


The Edge 2S (#1850) installed in a Losi® 22



The EDGE 2S has a 35% smaller footprint
than the GTB 2 and is ideal for vehicles
with limited space for electronics.


IDEAL FOR VEHICLES WITH LIMITED SPACE
With its compact and lightweight design, the EDGE is ideal for all 1/10th, 1/12th-scale applications, as well as 1/16 and 1/18-scale micro applications. With a footprint 35% smaller than the GTB 2, the EDGE is sure to fit in any vehicle--especially one with little room for electronics.

However, don’t let its small size fool you. This is a feature-packed ESC. In addition to utilizing the same software as Novak’s popular Sportsman class GTB 2 ESC, the EDGE also boasts a low profile heat sink and an easy, “Plug-and-Play” set-up (No soldering, just plug it in and start racing!).

Model #1850 is factory-wired with a genuine Traxxas® battery connector and gold-plated bullet-style motor connector
Model #1851 is factory-wired with a Tamiya®-style battery connector and gold-plated bullet-style motor connector
EASY-TO-USE FEATURES
Novak’s new EDGE ESC contains the latest R/C technology on the market, yet remains remarkably easy to use. Novak’s One-Touch Set-Up™ circuitry allows quick and easy set-up to the transmitter. Utilizing the One-Touch button and five LEDs, the EDGE boasts 12 adjustable parameters for complete customization; allowing the ESC to grow with you while your skills improve and your racing demands increase.

As racing can often push the limits of the electronics, the EDGE is equipped with sophisticated Thermal Overload Protection to protect the ESC from overheating. Additionally, like the rest of Novak’s top-of-the-line ESCs, the EDGE features built-in temperature monitoring circuitry to determine the ESCs operating temperature with a quick tap of the One-Touch button. Complete with built-in Voltage Cut-Off circuitry for both LiPo and LiFe batteries, the EDGE has it all.


#3335 Edge 2S / Ballistic 10.5T
Brushless System


#3339 Edge 2S / Ballistic 25.5T
Brushless System
The EDGE ESC also features zero motor timing advance and meets ROAR Sportsman Class guidelines for fair and consistent performance on the track.

AVAILABLE IN 4 COST-SAVING COMBOS

The Edge 2S is available on its own to use with your current sensored brushless motor, or as a system

paired with the Ballistic Spec Brushless Motor. There are four cost-saving systems available:

EDGE 2S / Ballistic 10.5T (Model #3335): Provides the fastest speeds. Ideal for Mild Sportsman Modified Racing, or fast bashers!
EDGE 2S / Ballistic 13.5T (Model #3336): Ideal for 13.5-turn spec class racing; great for those searching for a balance of power and runtime.
EDGE 2S / Ballistic 17.5T (Model #3337): Ideal for 17.5-turn spec class racing and new drivers looking for good power and extended runtimes.
EDGE 2S / Ballistic 25.5T (Model #3339): Both the ESC and Motor are approved for racing events that follow USVTA rules. Motor includes the blue ring. System is also ideal for beginners looking for slower speeds and the longest runtimes.
For specifications and features for Novak's Ballistic Spec Brushless Motors, click here.


EDGE 2S BRUSHLESS ESC FEATURES
Affordable performance, compact and lightweight design

Multiple adjustable parameters via on-board programming: Minimum Brake (0-30%), Drag Brake (0-30%), Minimum Drive (0-15%), Dead Band (2-8%), Throttle Curve (Linear/Expo), Brake Curve (Linear/Expo), Brake Frequency (1.67-13.7 KHz), Brake End Point (10-100%), Drive Frequency (16-7 KHz), Motor Rotation, Reverse, and Voltage Cut-Off
User-friendly One-Touch programming interface with five colored status LEDs to help personalize the speed control’s feel and response
Ideal for all 1/10th, 1/12th-scale applications as well as 1/16 and 1/18-scale micro applications including 2WD Short Course, Off-Road and On-Road
Compatible with all ROAR-legal sensored 540 motors 10.5T and higher and all 380-size sensored motors
Built-in diagnostic temperature monitoring that lets you quickly check the ESC’s operating temperature at any time
On-board Hall Sensor Test to easily and quickly verify that the motor's sensors are working properly
NovaBrakes™ provide smooth, controlled and powerful brakes under any condition
Sensor-based for excellent torque and low-speed driveability
Water-resistant case with a silicone gasket case to help keep the elements out
Thermal Overload Protection circuitry to protect the ESC from overheating
Built-in Voltage Cut-Off circuitry prevents damage to LiPo/LiFe batteries

Meets RoHS compliance and includes 120-Day Warranty
Designed, assembled and tested by Novak in Irvine, Calif., using globally sourced components
EDGE 2S BRUSHLESS ESC SPECS
Design: Sensor based
Fwd/Brk/Rev
ESC Weight (without wires): 0.69 oz. (19.5 g)
Input Voltage: 2S LiPo/LiFe cells or 4-7 NiMH cells (1.2V/cell)
ESC Footprint: 1.15” x 0.95” x 0.66" (29.0 x 24.3 x 16.8 mm)
Motor Limit: 540 (10.5T and higher) sensored brushless motor; all 380 sensored brushless motors
On-Resistance: 0.00057 ohms @ 25°C trans. temp.
BEC: 6.0 volts DC / 2.0 amps
Status LEDs: 5
Voltage Cut-Offs: 6.25V (Li-Po), 4.75V (Li-Fe)
Power Wires (battery/motor): 14G Super-Flex Copper-Strand Silicone Wire
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