NEW HOBBYWING STOCK SUPERCHARGED SOFTWARE
#8881
has anyone got a set for the TP13.5P with the HW extreme or 120a esc, for a 45 meter straight outdoor,
cheers
cheers
#8883
Ok I have a problem, the xtreme stock speedo my mate has won't flash. When you click upgrade it just comes up with an error message saying it can't install the firmware.
I installed the LCD box software (Hobbywing_USB_Link_setup_V1.64_111011.exe), updated the box to the latest version firmware (which was 1.0.1.8 or something) then tried to choose 930 stock from the list but no go. Tried all of the V3 firmwares available and still no go.
When my mate first received the speedo it was flashed to 508 for running at the club, it was then re-flashed to a stock software (don't know which one) and it was re-flashed when he was out racing last week by a local guy to 323 stock as he was having some problems with his new motor (x12) and now it won't reflash. Any ideas?
I installed the LCD box software (Hobbywing_USB_Link_setup_V1.64_111011.exe), updated the box to the latest version firmware (which was 1.0.1.8 or something) then tried to choose 930 stock from the list but no go. Tried all of the V3 firmwares available and still no go.
When my mate first received the speedo it was flashed to 508 for running at the club, it was then re-flashed to a stock software (don't know which one) and it was re-flashed when he was out racing last week by a local guy to 323 stock as he was having some problems with his new motor (x12) and now it won't reflash. Any ideas?
#8884
Tech Apprentice
Ok I have a problem, the xtreme stock speedo my mate has won't flash. When you click upgrade it just comes up with an error message saying it can't install the firmware.
I installed the LCD box software (Hobbywing_USB_Link_setup_V1.64_111011.exe), updated the box to the latest version firmware (which was 1.0.1.8 or something) then tried to choose 930 stock from the list but no go. Tried all of the V3 firmwares available and still no go.
When my mate first received the speedo it was flashed to 508 for running at the club, it was then re-flashed to a stock software (don't know which one) and it was re-flashed when he was out racing last week by a local guy to 323 stock as he was having some problems with his new motor (x12) and now it won't reflash. Any ideas?
I installed the LCD box software (Hobbywing_USB_Link_setup_V1.64_111011.exe), updated the box to the latest version firmware (which was 1.0.1.8 or something) then tried to choose 930 stock from the list but no go. Tried all of the V3 firmwares available and still no go.
When my mate first received the speedo it was flashed to 508 for running at the club, it was then re-flashed to a stock software (don't know which one) and it was re-flashed when he was out racing last week by a local guy to 323 stock as he was having some problems with his new motor (x12) and now it won't reflash. Any ideas?
323 is speedpassion firmware. i had to downgrade to a a lower V1 firmware (via the speed passion software) and then i could use HW software to upgrade back to 930
#8885
Hi Guys
I have notcied that some have been blowing up some esc's especially v3 what we have uncovered when repairing the esc's is very poor solderingcreating shorts like hair thin shorts from one wire to another and some with shorts to the aluminum case from the rear of the solder posts .
I know alot of people are not soldering experts so i have decided that we will do the following and that is have the wires already soldered to the esc from factory and then you can solder to the motor etc yourself .
Im thinking along the lines of the xerun product as all black wiring for the motor with A ,B,C printing on the wiring so you dont make any mistakes when soldering .The battery wires will stay the same but with the printing of plus and minus on the wire .
what do you guys think ?
regards Angelo
I have notcied that some have been blowing up some esc's especially v3 what we have uncovered when repairing the esc's is very poor solderingcreating shorts like hair thin shorts from one wire to another and some with shorts to the aluminum case from the rear of the solder posts .
I know alot of people are not soldering experts so i have decided that we will do the following and that is have the wires already soldered to the esc from factory and then you can solder to the motor etc yourself .
Im thinking along the lines of the xerun product as all black wiring for the motor with A ,B,C printing on the wiring so you dont make any mistakes when soldering .The battery wires will stay the same but with the printing of plus and minus on the wire .
what do you guys think ?
regards Angelo
#8886
Hi Guys
I have notcied that some have been blowing up some esc's especially v3 what we have uncovered when repairing the esc's is very poor solderingcreating shorts like hair thin shorts from one wire to another and some with shorts to the aluminum case from the rear of the solder posts .
I know alot of people are not soldering experts so i have decided that we will do the following and that is have the wires already soldered to the esc from factory and then you can solder to the motor etc yourself .
Im thinking along the lines of the xerun product as all black wiring for the motor with A ,B,C printing on the wiring so you dont make any mistakes when soldering .The battery wires will stay the same but with the printing of plus and minus on the wire .
what do you guys think ?
regards Angelo
I have notcied that some have been blowing up some esc's especially v3 what we have uncovered when repairing the esc's is very poor solderingcreating shorts like hair thin shorts from one wire to another and some with shorts to the aluminum case from the rear of the solder posts .
I know alot of people are not soldering experts so i have decided that we will do the following and that is have the wires already soldered to the esc from factory and then you can solder to the motor etc yourself .
Im thinking along the lines of the xerun product as all black wiring for the motor with A ,B,C printing on the wiring so you dont make any mistakes when soldering .The battery wires will stay the same but with the printing of plus and minus on the wire .
what do you guys think ?
regards Angelo
I don't have one as of yet but since many esc's also have the end user do the soldering and I've never heard of such a problem, perhaps the problem with the V3 is related to the location of the solder posts and metal around it?
#8888
I know that NOVAK went to installed wires for a similar reason. They found that the post being heated too many times was causing bad connections to the board. I think it is reasonable that they include factory soldered wires. No where in his post did he suggest that we can't solder different wire on to the ESC. I know every ESC that I have had that comes with wire soldered to the board has been resoldered at some point. Just need the right equipment. I see lots of guys with a 10$ radio shack special soldering irons and then wonder why they don't get good connections. Lately I have even seen a bunch of motors need the internal connections resoldered to the connector plate because they have been heated for too long and melted the internal connections.
#8889
None of my wires for 1/12th or WGT come straight up from the 120 1S ESC; so, I would just be unsoldering/resoldering them (2 times). And probably changing the wire in the process.
Just a thought!
Just a thought!
#8890
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Hi Guys
I have notcied that some have been blowing up some esc's especially v3 what we have uncovered when repairing the esc's is very poor solderingcreating shorts like hair thin shorts from one wire to another and some with shorts to the aluminum case from the rear of the solder posts .
I know alot of people are not soldering experts so i have decided that we will do the following and that is have the wires already soldered to the esc from factory and then you can solder to the motor etc yourself .
Im thinking along the lines of the xerun product as all black wiring for the motor with A ,B,C printing on the wiring so you dont make any mistakes when soldering .The battery wires will stay the same but with the printing of plus and minus on the wire .
what do you guys think ?
regards Angelo
I have notcied that some have been blowing up some esc's especially v3 what we have uncovered when repairing the esc's is very poor solderingcreating shorts like hair thin shorts from one wire to another and some with shorts to the aluminum case from the rear of the solder posts .
I know alot of people are not soldering experts so i have decided that we will do the following and that is have the wires already soldered to the esc from factory and then you can solder to the motor etc yourself .
Im thinking along the lines of the xerun product as all black wiring for the motor with A ,B,C printing on the wiring so you dont make any mistakes when soldering .The battery wires will stay the same but with the printing of plus and minus on the wire .
what do you guys think ?
regards Angelo
#8892
I haven't used 12 gauge since switching to brushless. There really doesn't seem to be a need. What motor battery combo are you using that needs this kind of wire?
#8894
Tech Apprentice
I already expreienced this one time, and haing the choice between these two, I can confirm you that the lowprice 100W helped to change wires so easily that the ESC almost didn't get a temp change, while with the high-price 30W, you could burn your finger on the ESC before the wires could be moved.
And since you have less chance to create an internal problem if the ESC stay cold, the choice is simple, I would go with any kind of 80-100W before any soldering iron without enough power, even it costs 10 times the price (for that king of use only ! ).
#8895
A good 60w iron is the way to go for virtually all soldering on rc cars these days. With the small flat tip (1/8-3/16"). Would only use a 100w iron when I was building NiMh packs in days long past.