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Old 11-13-2011, 06:57 PM
  #698  
TryHard
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So, as promised, some pics of my Rabbit FGX/104 conversion...

First pic up, the bits that come in the kit...
Carbon lower deck
Upper deck
Camber mounts
Optional motor bulkhead

Now, I've got to be honest here, there carbon cutting quality is not exactly stellar. I had to spend a bit of time removing material to smooth off cut edges, and some of the screw holes are not quite where they should be. On the very front, I had to sand the lip down a fair bit to fit the wing in place.
Having said all that, 10mins with a bit of sand paper and a counter-sunk bit and it's sorted.
second step, is basically removing from the FGX the parts that are needed, in effect, thats the whole rear end, although also including the ball joints for the shocks and tie-rod brace.

Second picture is the assembled rear mounted to the carbon bits. I did a dry fit whilst I waited for my parts to arrive. On the camber plates, you need to use some shims to get into the correct position. I find 9mm under the front screw, with 1.5mm under the rear is about right, and gets the ball joint in the right place as the FGX kit camber mounts.
You might notice I stuck with the alloy motor mount. I tried both, and tbh, the alloy one fits better, and still gives the gearing options I need. I'm running a 34t pinion, and reckon I could get a 36 or 37t in there fine (albeit with a 35t spur set on the car), which is more than enough gear for a 21.5 at the track I race on.

Third pic is the shock ball studs, showing how I mounted them up. As the FGX shock stud is small (4mm I think), I used the tamiya 5mm ball nut to give the 3Racing one something to screw into, and used a 6mm M3 countersunk to secure to the top plate. 4mm of shims raises the shock into the same position as the standard FGX. Doesn't look so neat there... but I have changed it out as you'll see in the next post!

Fourth picture is the centre brace, same thing as the shock, needs spacing up. The picture here was actually a best guess at the time, turns out the amount of spacers was spot on, as needed the height to clear the roll bar. 8mm on the front, with 1.5mm on the bulkhead.

Fifth (and last picture for this post) is the dry fitted car and all the parts needed to fit the front end. Obviously, if you have a spare 104, it'll be a sinch, but I didn't so, brought a load of parts seperately. I also made sure to upgrade the front end to the coated piviot balls and kingpins, and the alloy camber plate.

Given some of the other options, I also picked up the following bits;
Sakura tuned gear set (for 35T spur)
Sakura Zero rear roll bar set
Sakura Zero roll bar mounting set
Ti turnbuckles for the steering and rear camber plate.
New mounting hardware (including lots of pink shims! I'm a stickler for matching colours!)
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