Originally Posted by
masterhit
My view is probably going to be a bit unpopular but.....
In my opinion, it is a car you have to "want to drive". All other things being equal, the driver of the TA06 is going to have the harder slog.
It will need some work out of the box to compete with your previous cars. On tight carpet tracks it loses a bit too much coming out of the turns to be competitive. So far I have failed after many hours to free up the drive-train to any where near the level of a two belt car.
Larger sweeping tracks will mitigate the issue.
Box stock it is a serious pig and it shows on the track. The easiest solution to that problem is a shorty pack. An instant 100 grams weight savings for about $60 in the US. They give up a bit in the voltage department, (see pic of my packs at 35 amps) but so far I feel that is offset by the weight savings if you do not have time and $$$$ to trim the weight in other ways. Even then it may have benefits as you are able to put the weight were you want it.
It has been beaten to death, but the stock Philips head screws must go, and as mentioned the aluminum turnbuckles are not conducive to an abusive driving style.....
If your racing in-doors a spool is an essential tuning aid (+ big drive-train weight savings) along with a good set of springs (Ride, HPI).
In the end my personal experience was that it took just as much money, if not a little more, to compete with the fore mentioned cars along with a higher level of commitment to the build. But, it can definitely have it's own rewards taking the path less traveled.
Mike
I agree with about 3/4.
It is NOT a chassis to run lower than a 7.5T motor in. You CAN do it, but you will be at a MAJOR disadvantage. This is a chassis that is balanced better than many I have raced, but its balanced the opposite of every chassis I have raced. so there is a definite learning curve. I reccomend racing VTA, RCGT(what I race) and similar 13.5-21.5 turn motors.
I have yet to race against other people, being as how I am still very limited on time and still dialing in the car, but my lap times are within the range for the class. Theres a huge difference in handling with the vertical and IFS setup, and you just need to find what will help you. The IFS bodies(why else would you run the IFSsetup?!
) are not roar legal, which is the main (and only) benefit of this chassis. I am sure the Exotek version will fix many issues (weight, Servo sticking nearly 2" out, felx-but that is solved with the Tamiya carbon reinforced parts)