Originally Posted by
RC.Jon22
Question for for the guys who run their shocks with the 1mm hole in the cap - how do you build your shocks? I'm having a hard time getting the shocks to have the same rebound with the caps drilled. I'm running on a high traction indoor asphalt track (West Coast Raceway) and I'd like to make sure my shocks are performing to their best potential. I know Rick and Steve do very well with their TC6's at WCRC, I'm trying to get my setup that good!
I'm pretty sure Rick builds his shocks differently than I do from what I gather from the last time I talked with him about it... but I think his method might be a little easier than mine.
Generally, fill the shock up with oil with the piston fully extended and ensure that there aren't any air bubbles in the shock... a shock pump is very good for ensuring that you've got as much air out of the shock as possible.
Next, take the bladder and place it on top of the shock and gently press it down so that it seats into the shock... usually I make sure that there's enough oil that durring this step extra oil is displaced by the bladder.
Next, take the plastic shock cap and place it ontop of the bladder... be careful because it's pretty easy to move the bladder around by accident.
Next, carefully slide the aluminum cap over the plastic cap and the bladder and slowly screw the cap down until it's tightened completely.
This should be the easiest way to build your shocks with consistant rebound.
I generally build my shocks in a similar fashion except that before I place the bladder on top of the shock I push the shock shaft up into the shock a bit... with the way these shocks are you can't push it up all the way, so I recommend pushing it up so that there's 3 mm between the shock body and the eyelet... the rest of the proceedure is then the same!
Hope this helps!