Originally Posted by
DaveG28
Hi Paul,
Hoping you can help me out a bit with this, I am totally new to 12th but looking to run one soon, with a 17.5 TP motor and lrp sxx tc v1. From the above, do I need to remove any esc wires to the rx or do I plug everything in just as I would a 2s car, but then also run an rx pack, and with the esc switched off? Will this work?
Also, will I be ok with a standard TP 17.5 motor for 1S racing, or does it really need option bits to run?
Thanks,
Dave
Hi Dave. Yes, i run a RX pack with everything the same as without but i only switch on the RX pack, speedo switch always off. The stock rotor should work well in that application. The stock rotor may need to be geared lower than normal BC it is more of a rpm rotor.
Thanks!
Originally Posted by
R3VoLuTiOn
Thanks Paul!
Did you try 2 and 3 hole pistons in the front? Also, what sized pistons did you use and were they drilled out at all?
I normally run standard plastic shocks, those pistons are 1.0 i beleive. with three hole front i normally run 600 or 700 oil. with 2 hole i normally run 400 or 500 in front. I cant honestly tell what the advantage is of one over the other. If you test it i would like to hear what you think.
Thanks
Originally Posted by
Skiddins
It's more that I end up widening the slots and holes in the axle, dog bone and ECS 'casing' where the pins go.
So I end up with lots of slack in the drivetrain. The main problem with that is that we can't buy the axles separately.
Haven't snapped a pin in a very long time.
Occasionally I also bend a dogbone (managed it last Sunday).
This sort of stuff only seems to happen to me when carpet racing due to the close and less forgiving barriers.
I have also seen the same over time with my ECS's, they will get sloppy. mine do last a good while though. It is obvious but important for the life of the assymbly to keep them very well greased. With double the pins and tolerances their is potential for much greater slop than a normal driveshaft. they do sell the "shaft case" seprately pn 305250. i think that over time the majority of your slop will be in that pece if the rest is always well greased.
the bone is also sold serpately but no i dont see the axle sold seprately.
sorry i couldnt be more help.
Originally Posted by
jgraham37128
Paul, I rebuilt my diff and I installed Xray ceramic diff balls along with a Xray ceramic thrust bearing. Now the diff loosens each time I run. I've double checked everything and all is installed like the book says. Am I missing something or why is it doing this?
Also on another note my car is somewhat fast, but it's hard to drive. I would like to take some roll out of the car. When going threw a chicane I want the back end to be more planted. It seems I have to chase it threw the chicane.
Thanks,
JG
Hi. I have seen this once in a while. it could be a few things. Check and make sure that you didn't loose the plastic pece in the back of the male outdrive, it acts as a the back of a lock nut after the threads of the outdrive. I have seen those fall out ocationally.
I suppose that it is also possible that that plastic pece is their but is worn out and not holding the threads of the screw, then i would try to replace it.
The only other thing that it could be is that the thrust is not working properly. if their is some extra drag in the thrust side with the diff screw, thrust washers, and or outdrive it could loosen up do to the thrust not doing its job properly.
You will have to trouble shoot it but those are the only scinarios that i can think of.
Thanks, hope you figure it out. if not PM me and we will take the next step.