Originally Posted by
thunderbt3
Paul,
Have you been using the new conical springs in your nitro clutches? Do they feel any different from using the traditional spring?
Thanks!
Hi, I have tried them but not recently Xray has now developed the set up for the washers. When i tried them we did not know how many or the order so my success with it was limited. Im sure that we will be using them soon.
Originally Posted by
Mb3195
Hi Paul,
Been reading your thread with intrigue, picking up some handy tips!
I've had my t3 '11 for a few months now, race on carpet with sorex 28jb and am 90% happy with the wa the car is setup. It feels good to drive, lap times are consistent, but I just think I need the car to be a tenth or two quicker.
Your cleveland carpet setup is quite radical compared to what I have tried and see other drivers here in the uk use, however, I am keen to give it a try and will be doing next time I'm on track.
I did notice that your roar carpet setup was slightly different, being that you had the 0.00 roll centres in the front rather than the -0.75mm.
What would you suggest I tried initially? I also always run a gear diff with gum in the front as I prefer the way the car feels, will I need to change any of your setup to accommodate this? I race in 10.5t boosted.
Thanks
Mark
Hi Mark. My Cleveland set up was pretty good but I think that My Roar nats set up from "Timezone Raceway" should be the best one. I would try this or the Cleveland set up, then try the diff and the spool with it.
I do not know what to change from my set ups to make it better with a diff BC i normally like the spool better. too much racing lately and not enough testing lately.
.
If you find anything that you like please feel free to post it here for me and everyone!. Thanks
Originally Posted by
Johnny Wishbone
Hi Paul,
How critical is it to have equal length shocks, left to right? I was setting my car up and made my shock equal length and as I was doing this I started to question why is this so important?
If the shocks are built with zero rebound, and we have droop screws limiting the one area of travel, and we use the adjustable collars to set the ride height, followed by small tweaks to adjust for tweak. The piston in the shock isn't at one extreme or the other in the stroke and the only limit is being dictated by the amount of holes and the size of the holes that are letting the oil pass thru, and the resistance of the stroke in and out feels the same. How does this make equal shock length an important factor in car setup? Where does piston pack come into effect? Especially in a zero rebound shock? If we where using shocks with variable stroke and rebound I could understand it more, but what am I missing here?
Thanks very much.
I dont think that you are missing much. The shock legnth determines where the piston will sit in the shock body at any ride height or droop position, This does make a difference on the way the shock works for sure. If the piston is higher, that shock will kinda have less volume BC of the shaft being farther in than the other one and also work the bladder harder and differently during equivilant chassis roll from one side to the other.
we will tweak the cars droop and everything else which will make the piston slightly off so Nothing is ever 100% perfect and ballanced, But i do make sure that my shocks are the same legnth so i know that i am as close as possible to it being proper.
Hope that helps. and that you got threw all my typo's.
Thanks!