Ybakoff - Yes, just put the brushes in the motor, make sure it works, and put the car on the track. I don't have a scientific explanation as to why it works, but it does.
We use little blue capacitors on all our motors..and make sure you're using a Schottky diode if you have a Novak ESC (that big one that comes with the ESC is also necessary). Having "too many" capacitors won't make it glitch (sometimes people run five or more). The motor could have shorted out; it's not a common thing, but it can happen, and will make the car glitch. Have you tried a different armature in the same can and endbell?
Paul - What's up dude?! We'll catch up on AIM.
Josh R - 180-220 is really an acceptable range for that motor to run at. Don't tune to a certain temperature..turn needles at small increments at a time, giving the engine plenty of chance to adjust to it before making your next change (at least 45-60 seconds). The engine shouldn't idle too long before sputtering to a stop..maybe 20-40 seconds at the most. Adjust the high speed needle first until the truck gathers speed quickly without any blubbering, and will rev out (but not scream too high). After it does that, tune the low speed needle until the truck accelerates crisply. Only use the temp gun to monitor the engine..it shouldn't need to get above 240 to make good power.