Originally Posted by DaveW

The set screw boss needs to be shaved, and the hingepin boss is a little too wide to fit in the front TOP arm. Its nothing too involved, i did the mods at the track with minimal tools. (Micrometer, sandpaper, dremel with reinforced cutting wheel and sanding drum.)

It could stand to be cleaned up a little bit... as im usually pretty anal about my work... but i was just trying to see if it would even fit or make a difference on same track day conditions.

The only thing i see as a negative is the lower shock positions. The outer hole on the front arm is real close to the inner hole on the rear arm... which is what i was using anyways. On a track with more grip, you might have issues.




My issue wasnt the lack of the setscrew in the rear hub... I had that installed as well. My car would seriously just tap a board and crack a steering hub across the bearing race... and/or then the rear of the car would hit and shatter a rear hub. This happened almost every run.

Tony even scratched his head... as he saw it happen more than once. Very frustrating.

If you take into account how much i spent on replacement TOP parts... the XRay hubs are cheap not only to the plastic TOP parts... but the aluminum units as well. I NEVER broke any front or rear hubs on my XRay... and plastic doesnt bend like aluminum. I mean, you plan on buying new hubs before Snowbirds... so that means youre buying expensive aluminum parts twice? How is that inexpensive?

Not trying to debate here but i mean... really? Your reasoning doesnt follow sound logic.