Originally Posted by
Xpress
Which one of us is bringing the Sprecher to Florida?
iether you or we can find some while we are their.
Originally Posted by
ByteStream
Hi Paul,
I have a couple of questions ..
1. I've started to see alot of setups that are using the 50mm drive shafts front and rear, what does that do for the car in terms of handling?
2. For the shims that you use for the camber links (hub side front and rear), it seems that the rear always has more shims than the front, is there a reason that almost all setups are this way?
3. For track-width, is there a difference in adding shims to the bulkheads vs. using offset wheel hubs? For instance, in your cleveland setup you have the front shimmed out 2.25 per side as well as using the +0.75 offsets, could you have shimmed it out to 3.0 instead and not use the offsets? or do they address different things in terms of handling.
4. On the T3'11 setup sheets, where it specifies Flex, there is a box that says "ECCenter" with options for "Standard" and "1", what adjustment is that refering to?
Thanks in advance.
Hi!
1: i feel like the 50mm driveshafts make the car more responsive, the 52s make the car smoother. in my poinion the car is easier to drive with the 52's but faster with the 50s. from a theory standpiont im not really sure why, but i think a shorter drive shaft has more bind do to a greater change in angle threw suspension travel and possibly more leverage over the suspension threw power transfer. ?
2: Not really, i just always tune the shimms on the outer link for camber gain, if you only used 2mms on the rear with the L1's you would not have hardly any camber gain. The L1s and H1s put the inside point of the camber links pretty high so more shims need to be added to the outside to complement the inner point being high.
3: yes their is a big difference between the 2 ways of making the car wider for the front and rear.
for carpet i like the way the +75s feel on the front, it allows me to drive the car harder in to the corner and almost slide the front end in. with tuening the hexes you are changing the width of the car but more importantly you are changing the "scrub" or the wheel base of the inside tire VS the outside tire.
example: lets say you have +100mm hexs (lol), then turn the wheels, the outside contact patch would sweep and be out side and infront of the body somewhere and the inside tire would sweep back and be way back somewhere outside of the battery.
4: I beleive that is reffering to the diff height, we have 0 and +1. so we have 4 different diff positions (0's down and up, and +1 down and up. so basicly you are changing your dog bone angle at ride height. i normally use +1high in the front and 0's high in the back. for foam with a very small tire we would use a lower setting to get the dog bone angle back in a good place for that tire size.
No problem, Thanks!
Originally Posted by
Benzaah
Hi Paul. Awesome thread as always. With regards to rebuilding ball diffs and in particular the grease used. Ive watched the Jilles RedRc diff build video but im wondering your thoughts on rebuilding and what you do in particular. In your opinion what is too much and what is too little grease when rebuilding? What parts will you automatically bin? Any tips on running in a fresh built diff? Thoughts are appreciated. Regards Benzaah.
Hi.
For me a fresh diff if rebuilt properly is always better. even if the diff feels good after a few runs it is always best fresh built. The thrust is always key to getting a good diff, the thrust bears just as much load as the main balls and rings and is much smaller so it has the biggest challange in front of it.
when i rebuild a diff i always use a fresh thrust greased with xray graphite grease or associated black grease, the thrust dosent need to have and Grip it just needs to be as smooth as possible and compinsate for diff action.
The balls and rings need to have Grip on eachother, i use 600 to 1000 grit samd paper on my rings, i use the female outdrive and sand each ring untill the previous groove from the balls is gone, best to sand it in circles then a fugure 8 on the sand paper so you will have small grooves running in all directions across the ring from the sand paper. the sand paper is used so the diff balls get better traction on the ring to prevent slipping, the best diff lube for me is the associated stealth lube, it has small particles in it to once again form better traction between the balls and rings. in which i use a small dab on each ball.
All in all the diff needs to not slip under power. For example once i thought i was super smart (lol) so i polished my diff rings and found a really slippery grease for the balls, the result was that i had to tighten the diff so much to prevent it from slipping under power that A it was super tight feeling once i tightened it not slip and B it put so much more preasure on my thrust and it killed the thrust bearing almost instantly.
hope this helps!