Hey Rob and Jonny what's up? Socko now it makes sense why people have been able to run .22's. I couldn't figure it out for the life of me because I couldn't get enough steering and none of the Fast guys seem to run anything but .20's except for McMahon who typically runs .18's and Jeff Brown typically runs .22's. Everyone else seems stuck on .20's normally and with the info you just provided I think I understnd why now. The motors that everyone typically uses on the "national circuit" are 10-8 turns so maybe the cars are just too fast to get steering with those motors. Rob and I also found out recently that a thick chassis plate like the new Trinity car has or like the old LS had will give more steering with .20's than the more flexible L3 and 6 Pack chassis. As a result since you usually have to coordinate the frequency/stiffness of the springs to the rigidity of the chassis it makes sense why I and others like McMahon were using .18's. I think the downfall is that on high bite (black groove sticky) tracks especially tight course layouts the flexible chassis loses corner speed to the stiffer one and want to traction roll more often. Contrary to what most people say I find it harder to take traction out and still have a well balanced good driving car that has corner speed than to put traction in and have all of that. I think we less experienced racers (compared to the top 10) forget that it's not just enough for the car to be easy to drive and to turn into a corner but that it MUST have corner speed THROUGH the corner AND be efficient. I wonder if mod places more of a premium on this than stock where you seem to run up to the corner and turn and as long as the car turns well you're good it seems. I think Dave S said that he gained more of an appreciation for what it really takes to run mod 12th and make it look easy. I would be interested in him or others elaborating on this subject and any others they think of. Good to see you Rob and thanks for the T-bar info especially since he said he can do the graphite with a slot. This type of t-bar will really last and give greater consistency and I need to e-m so that we can set something up. To everyone out there let's take advantage of this info Rob gave us because in case you didn't know this is something that a lot of the top guys do themselves. When you find a t-bar that really locks your car in it is nice to have more of them for when they wear out which can usually be seen I have found out in the last year by the "stress" marks (light areas especially around the "T" part that bolts to the pod. Also, different thicknesses of T-bar I have re-learned are a major source of tuning to help turn-in, corner speed, and traction roll at big races and many will normally run something on the order of an .078-.080 for a t-bar where as normally at home they may run a .073-.074. Is there a real difference you may wonder? Take a .073 and compare it's rigidity with a .075 and let me know what you guys think maybe even try them back to back. Boy, Indy is next week, oh boy, oh boy, oh boy. I still have to get tires, batteries and another Parma body for painting. Then 10 days after that the Carpet Nats in Cali, oh boy, oh boy, oh really big boy.