Paul L

Hi all, sorry about the delay, i have just been thrashing on WC stuff and had the gas nats last week also.

Hi, I just shimm the shocks iether on the tower or the arm just to get the shock verticle, with the long front wheelbase i run 2.5mms behind the shock to compinsate.
As for the Foam im not 100% sure what it does on the track, in theory it keeps the bladder from colapsing as much threw the stroke and increases rebound a little, i will run without the foam then sometimes with it. now im back to running the foam but i still build my shocks pretty dead.


Thanks!


Exactly, thanks for not going with the obvious rip on that one, LOL.

Thanks.



Hi, .1mm sounds miniscule to me. I have run my car before with much more on one side than the other and have not had a major problem. i wouldnt worry about it atall. i bet what you find on low bite has more to do with the diffs being off center as it is with all cars.
you should be good to go. Thanks



Cool, good job!.

Hi, Thanks!

I did run all the 1 pece suspension mounts on the car. to make 1425 i had to run quite a bit of leas also. for the speedo i almost always run the softest setting, with lipo their is a ton of power, if i ran punch 4 or something i would just spin the tires more. and i did have to dreamel the tower mount to let the ball cup clear. Thanks



Hi Ed, Thanks!. i have been running this link for quite a while now, it just makes the car drive right for me, i feel that it gives steering without making the car super hard to drive. see ya.

I basicly did it because i wanted a super long camber link but didnt want to give up any camber gain, this is why it is shimmed high on the caster block.
Thats about it but i normally use this front link.




I would try narrower front hexes and a longer rear wheelbase by 1mm. both of these should help the car on power and the hexs should keep the entry corner steering. Good luck.

Hi, for the ackermann i always like the post being forward. basicly the less ackermann you have the less the outside wheel turns (loaded tire) this is why the car will have more exit steering with less ackerman, that being said if you dont run lock to lock steering and just adjust the ackermann but measure the outside tire degree and keep that the same i think that you will have a totally different result. so its relly how its applied more than anything.

as for the camber link im not sure, im assuming that the car wanted two things, 1 to roll less which a shorter link will do and 2 being more camber gain and it just worked so thats good.



Thanks Guys.


Honestly im not sure, I have tested it before and thought that the hards gave more corner speed but i have felt the opposite at other tracks also. i dont know that anyone really knows how much caster blocks flex or in what way even.


Ill practice wherever i can, definately winthrope harbor more, but i do a lot of traveling so i think i will beable to stay sharp.

Hi Jack, good to hear from you. Thanks man. im not sure on the race yet. ill do some planning for other races after both worlds are over at the end of next month. See ya

Hi Randy, Thanks! I use the aluminum outdrives with the blades for two reasons, 1 being that the plastic ones can break, especially with 50mm dog bones and the other being that in mod they can wear that little indent in the inside very quickly. i do think that the plastics work slightly better with out the blades but i in mod i would replace them a lot.

I wont have any time to come over their to practice BC i leave in a week and have a TON to prepair still, but id love to if i could.

see ya soon!