Originally Posted by Shawn Palmer

Hey guys, check this out and see if it works for you.

<whispering> this is the new Supercharger BETA software
http://rapidshare.com/files/36

2493193/Supercharger_Beta.zip

Originally Posted by Shawn Palmer

New settings added:

12) Supercharger Boost Level: This sets the overall supercharger power level. High levels may

increase speed, but always at the expense of motor heat.

13) Supercharger RPM Delay: This controls when the supercharger settings engage. When the motor

RPM reaches this setting, the ESC will engage the supercharger.

14) Supercharger Full Throttle Delay: This setting delays the application of the supercharger

function until after a set time has been reached while holding FULL Throttle.

15) Supercharger Punch: This setting controls timing advance at RPMs below the Start RPM setting.

Lower settings decrease motor temps, and higher settings increase punch and motor temps. (note:

low punch settings are high programming value #s, and high punch settings are low programming

value #s)

Starting from scratch:
1) Start out with a slow FDR (7.0) gear ratio
2) Start with #14 off and #15 at value 8
3) For 13.5 start with #12 at stage 4, for 17.5 at stage 6

A) The first thing to set is the RPM delay/gearing for the straight. Run the car and adjust

#13 to where the boost is kicking in where you want it, and you want to gear it to make sure the

car is still barely digging (accelerating) a the end of the straight. You want it to where it

just barely doesn’t top out.

B) #14 works together with #13. Adjust #14 up from zero one value at a time until it’s

making the kick come in later than it was before – then back it down one value.

C) Now you can tune the punch (#15) for the infield. Leave it alone if you’ve got enough rip

already, or try the car going up one value at a time. This setting has a huge influence on

overall motor heat, so monitor temps constantly when dialing in more punch!

D) At this point, you should be set to go, or fine tune:

Fine tuning tips:
1) Different winds of motors are going to have different tolerance levels for overall boost

and punch. It’s easy to overboost a 13.5 at the max setting. Too much advance will make the motor

slower on the straight and have less torque just like over gearing will. It will also

dramatically increase motor heat just like over gearing. Once you’ve completed the above, you can

experiment with more overall boost. You will most likely find a boost level that does NOT get

faster than the next one lower. That’s the motor’s breaking point for that gear/boost level. Back

down the boost to the next lower setting.

2) Same process for punch – too much, and the motor will turn into a dog in the infield and

overheat quickly – back the punch down.

3) For large sweeping tracks where you can actually use a little boost in parts of the

infield, experiment up and down with both #13 and 14 to find the right values to give you a

little kick where you want it, but NOT where you don’t want it. For almost ALL tracks however -

just have the boost engage on the straight.

IN ALL MATTERS OF TUNING/GEARING/SOFTWARE SETTINGS:
The one and only goal should be faster LAP TIMES, not whether you are getting pulled, or are able

to pass everyone on the straight. Top speed on the straight alone doesn't always directly

translate into faster lap times.

When you fine tune gearing and software settings, always use the clock alone to gauge what's

better or worse!
.
.

Originally Posted by Shawn Palmer

"Value 11" is like hangar 18 - it doesn't exist. If you keep on

looking at it and asking questions, the men in black suits and dark shades will come to your door

to reinforce the fact that it indeed does not exist. If you persist, the little gray

spindly guys with big dark eyes will show up in your room late at night and perform "adjustments"

to your hindquarters and mutilate your livestock. I know it's true - Art Bell has been telling me

so for years.

But seriously - "Value 11" is reserved for some future goodies coming into the software soon.

Time travel, quantum traction increase, levitation, drug free male enhancement - it's all on the

table right now.

Originally Posted by abailey21

It's an option that engages the flux capacitor, if you hit 88MPH you can

go back in time.


Don't worry about that one, it's an old value not used anymore

Originally Posted by Shawn Palmer

You will NOT see the new values show up on anything but your original plastic LED box that came

with your ESC.

Originally Posted by Shawn Palmer

Hi irgo, - finer adjustment on RPM delay:
Have you run the new software at your track and found "setting A" kicks in too early, and

stepping to "setting B" is too late? If so, try adjusting the time delay to find a happy medium.

They work together, so you should be able to find that happy place.

The rpm settings may look like large differences just looking at the numbers, but on the track

the range is much finer than you'd expect.

As for a custom settable function, the possibility is there if it's needed in the future. Let us

know if you get stuck between two RPM settings on the track and we'll add that to the BETA

feedback.

Originally Posted by Shawn Palmer

TRF4:
The 2.1s available for sale right now have the previous stock software on them. This "latest"

we're talking about here has just gone out for beta testing. It will be in the 2.1s when it is

proven and available for everyone in the main software on the SP site.

ronaldo:
10.5 is right on the edge of "OK" to use supercharger settings - be very very careful.
For 13.5 you can use either 230 0r 231.

leonard:
The short answer is LESS than what you can accomplish with ESC settings. If you run mod, the cool

kids are hip to running the larger diameter rotors for more punch and cooler temps (more

efficiency with more magnet volume).

mick:
The Emotions are awesome systems for the Losi minis. I've been racing with them for a couple

years now, and the performance is smooth and fast.
Questions:
1) Do you really want your buggy to be 60mph+ capable? I would recommend the 6900 combo over the

7800 for anything except pure high speed record attempts.
2) Do you plan to run 3s at all, or only 2s?
3s with the 7800 is a recipe for disaster. (but it'll be really fast for those 4

seconds...)

Originally Posted by altreyx

Hello,
I tryed during my freetime to "build" a PDF file where is possible share the setups that we use

on our speedcontrollers.
Is the first time that i try something like that, i hope you like it.
Thank you @Solara / AGNO for their help.

Andrea

Link for to download it: http://www.megaupload.com/?d=WC4EQ0PN

EDIT: now is possible to save the setups as file.

Originally Posted by Shawn Palmer

racingnazy:
This is BETA software. Meaning unproven, only internally tested so far, but being provided

semi-publicly to gain some more feedback on the functions and functionality before being

revised/repaired/released to the public as an officially "safe" and "improved" version of

software. So please don't take the following as rude in any way - If renaming/replacing program

files and having to do a little searching for the beta software is beyond your patience or

comfort zone, I would respectfully recommend waiting for the public version of the software.

Again with no disrespect meant - we purposely make it a little difficult to get and load BETA

software. For those with the time and patience to get it, load it up successfully and spend

several practice days dialing it in and all the while providing feedback - you are SP heroes and

I sincerely thank and salute you. You have made the product better for everyone.

Originally Posted by san.

I'm bit a confused and having problems finding a balance with the beta software.
Need some help understanding the difference between #4 DRRS (Start Mode) and #15 Supercharger Punch. And how they affect and/or compliment each other? Similarly, #9 AMTS (Timing) and #12 Supercharger Boost Level.
Thx.

Originally Posted by Shawn Palmer

With the help from Brandon in MS today, I was able to make some mental connections from a previous call with the SP owner and engineers earlier this morning.

I was told "the software has to be loaded twice for the full effects to take". I initially interpreted that as meaning the new files had to be copied/pasted twice for the new beta software to show up.

After several phone calls with Brandon in MS testing beta software today with no luck, and then an email from him just now saying "I reloaded the software again onto my ESC, and now it seems fine" - I'm putting two and two together. This has now been confirmed from the SP owner and engineers - please "upgrade ESC" TWICE when putting new beta software on your ESC!

So - If you have loaded the new software onto your ESC and observed "little or no difference" to 107/110 - please load it (or reload it, and then) again a 2nd time! (and hold onto your shorts!)

All the feedback we have received (with special thanks to Charlie Barnes and Rich Stidham) so far tells us we are 100% with Tekin on the straight, and eating their lunch in the infield when the settings are optimized. And this is also on a track (in Rich's case) with a 165ft straight!

Also noted from this morning's Skype call - 230 has about 5% more power (both punch and top speed) than 231. PLEASE BE CAREFUL with 230 - many motors have been smoked with too much Supercharger punch/Supercharger boost in testing!

Also confirmed tonight:
AMTS timing is interconnected with the Supercharger function. In Alpha testing (and in general for AMTS) setting 8 gives highest top speed (but lowest punch). Setting 1 give most punch, but lower top speed. Depending on your motor and track, AMTS setting 6 or 7 might be best for you. (lower for lower turn motors, higher for higher turn motors.)

DRRS is still active as well. Generally setting 8 is still best. Lower settings will lower punch and allow higher supercharger and AMTS setings for higher top speed.