Originally Posted by
Timmie
I rotated my motor tabs rearward to allow slightly longer wires to allow some flexibility later if I needed to move the motor in/out/forward/rearward depending on gearing and weight balancing needs.
The LP is really tight on space. I imagine a MI4 is pretty tight too. If you did want to move your receiver down to the chassis you can try some of the things I did. I moved the antenna mount over to the battery holder. I took the m3 nylon locknut off and then installed a long counter sunk screw that would screw into the bottom of the antenna mount. Then I also trimmed the edge off the rear servo mount. This gave me a lot more room to work with.
I'm not using a servo saver and so far have not broke a servo. If you run outdoors you'll probably be fine without one. If you run carpet you may want to look into running one.
Anything going into aluminum you want to use loctite. I'm not sure what kind of plastic was used with the suspension blocks for a MI4, but the ones that came with my LP were extremely brittle. I ordered new ones and they are a lot stronger. Appears that they changed the plastic used, the new ones I received are more of a grey finish. The only thing I noticed that needed care when building my car was the sway bar holders that go on the bulkhead. You have to be careful screwing in the little 1.5mm grub screws or the holders may crack.
Other than that the car is rock solid. Really nice ride
Thanks for the pics and tips. Your wiring looks really clean. One thing I'm not sure of is whether I want to put wire in-line with the post on the speedo, or perpendicular. I did my other car in-line, and it was a pain to solder and doesn't feel very secure. I think going 90* to the post, and being able to push some strands down into the notch would make things a bit more secure, but then the routing might not be so clean.
My car is an Mi4 LP, and space is actually pretty plentiful with the reciever atop the servo. I put the front belt toward the battery, so I can actually get the speedo way in under the top deck if I want to. I could move the reciever down by putting it on its side, but then it'd have to hang off the chassis a bit, and the antenna wire mounting wouldn't be quite as clean. As is, the antenna wire comes out the reciever and right up into the tube.
EDIT: I'm gonna buy a couple 48p pinions tomorrow. Any suggestions what FDR I should target as starting points for 17.5 with the Tekin RS on 203, with about a 80x40' track? I'm thinking probably 6.0 or 6.5 as a starting point. I'm more concerned about making sure the motor is cool and trouble-free than getting the max top speed, at least for my first event.
-Mike