Originally Posted by
Cain
thats for the info. So to confirm my understanding, if I go up on the timing on the motor, that should give me more RPM correct? so I can then back off on my gearing to get back the torque I am missing.
Is that correct? More timing increases RPM (does it also drop torque?)
Still learning this stuff coming from a sensorless background.
Yes...more timing increase RPM, however, that will decrease the torque. Like a power screwdriver, you want to turn it to SLOW (low RPM) to drive a screw into a stud wall, same idea....
You cannot have BOTH at their peak...but you can have both with average power, its about balance...you can have high speed on the straight but losing torque at the turns. Or you can have punch on the infield and OK speed on the staight...for me, I would choose the 2nd choice...each track has more turns then the straight, INFIELD speed makes fast lap time, not the straight line speed...
To save you time, do this...
Use 312a software on GT2. Then DRRS (8 or 9) and AMTS set to max (26.26). Your 21.5 of the choice...use the default motor timing (like 10* on Duo2 or 5* on SP V3). That will be your base line setup. Use a spool on the front. No drag brake and set full brake to like 25-50% just for emergency. Start gearing your car @ 4.8 first. Set your limit to 4.4 final drive (by gearing up)...I highly doubt your 4.2 final drive lap time is faster then 4.5 final drive. 4.2 final drive only gives you straight line speed when the straight line might be as short as 75 feet...Try it on the track and compare laptime. I hardly care about how punchy my car is or how fast the straightaway speed of my VTA car except I care about my laptime...VTA is all about corner speed and how much speed you are push for the wholelap....like if you are off the drive line for couple turns, you are .5 sec off the lap time, and you have to that for 8 minutes....thats why even someone with a GTB can be on the A-main along with those who use SPX and RS speedo.
If you are still not happy about 4.5 final drive...then you can try adjust your motor endbell timing by a notch at a time...like 2-5* each time.
Originally Posted by
J@UNE
I'll check the EPA. The sensor wire was checked, I tried three motors and one of them had the built-in wire, The three worked fine on the Tekin. I also tried different lipos wich were all close to 8.4V.
I also tried all the ddrs and timing settings.
Thanks for the answers guys!
Reset your model on your radio, then rebind the speedo and make sure both EPA are on 100%, nothing more..
That happened to me before when I was 1st using the 1.0. The EPA can be at max 120% on GT2, but yours is V1.1. It cannot be set to max. So you must be set at 100% only.
Your problem should not caused by the speedo setting like AMTS or DRRS. I remember that happened to me on 1 of the main. When everyone launched on the starting line, mine was stand still untill the car behind me rear ended me full powered...but once my car was rear ended, my car did move but I cannot use brake or my car will stall again...kinda like my car need a push start or something.
Originally Posted by
lastsun
Hi, I am very new to EP. Can anyone help me with the followings:
1. I am using KO EX10-Helio C2. how should i setup my radio before i bind the ESC (SP GT2 PRO carbon)? ie. throttle hi-point 100 or ???, brake 100 or ???, etc.
2. Is it ture that once i ever had an ECS temp-cut, it will just keep cutting no matter what i do? i running on a Orion 4T with 10.54 on a xray T2'09 and motor temp was at 65deg.c when esc cut at 4 minutes mark. the esc was flashing single green light
3. what esc setup should be run for 4 turn? ie the start mode and timing.
For me...I always FORMAT my current model setting so everything are on DEFAULT on my radio. So I know all the setting are in default setting before I am binding the speedo. To asnwer your question...yes, throttle and brake both 100%.
I don't use temp cutoff, never did, never need that...I can't answer that question.
I ran 3.5T before...gear @ 10 final drive and DRRS set at 6~7, AMTS set at 6 (18.75*) and endbell timing set at default (middle position)