Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

Its amazing how well the high roll centers and no JR link worked with a little chassis flex. It basically brought the car to "life" with crazy response into and out of turns. The most notable change on the car though was the reduction of rear toe which let the car rotate so much faster. That was a fine balancing act to keep the car straight and go fast.

Prolly the biggest achivement for this chassis though was my brothers 1st outing with it at this event. I couldn't 100% duplicate my setup direction with his chassis at this stage but 1st time out and he finished 15th in stock (17.5). Not bad for someone who has raced less than 10 times. I personally belive he had the fastest stock car on the track as I personally did many mid to low 19 second laps with it on the practice day while all the stock boys where trying to figure out how to get into the 19's in the hot weather. His diff held up fine in the dusty conditions running all weekend without a rebuild.

Anyway I need to do a little more testing to find a BASE SETUP for the current chassis config. I'll post it when I have it sorted. Note you may need my upper deck mod to get the best out my setups.

Droop: I measure droop as suspension down travel over ride height. In other words its how far the suspension moves down as you lift the chassis upwards. I don't think its important as to how you measure this (I use setup wheels for droop and ride height and calculate from there) as long as you can measure it correctly. In essence droop "limits" how far your chassis can transfer weight from one end or side to the other. Running lots of droop will allow your chassis to "roll" to a greater degree if sufficient force is applied. Running minimal droop will prevent your chassis from rolling even under large loads with soft springs/swaybars. Like all setup components its up to you to find the settings and characteristics that best suit your track and driving style.