Originally Posted by
reenmachine
I built the shocks exactly to the manual. I've only had the car a short while and with Tamiya kits I've found that if you follow the manual precisely you get a solid and forgiving starting setup. It seems they put a lot of testing and thought into that. If you've screwed the shock shafts in to the point where no threads or shoulder show then that's probably too far.
I don't see any need to reduce shock length. You wouldn't want the shocks to be topped out at normal ride height or you wouldn't get any droop.
I haven't checked to see if the shorter springs will fit, but there's probably enough adjustment to the threaded collars to do it. As long as they don't fully compress before your chassis bottoms they'll be fine, but you'll have to experiment to find which spring rate to choose.
The IFS-R comes with 4 red springs, which is pretty soft. I don't run sway bars at all. I'm on outdoor asphalt and have never needed them. We just resurfaced our track and it's way grippy now, so I may try light ones and see what happens, although I'm pretty happy with how the car handles right now.
That's exactly what I did.
I have no thread or shoulder showing. I'll be sure to back off a bit.
Confession time: I just returned to RC after a 2+ year layoff. Despite my best efforts, I have forgotten some things.
My return began October 2008 in a spec class TT-01. Never thought that I'd run a chassis like the TT-01 (snobbery), but I haven't had this much fun in my previous 11 years of RC. It's a blast.
Anyway, I completely forgot about the use of droop in tuning. The TT-01 (non- Drift kit) doesn't do droop.
I'm sure all of that RC knowledge will return. I hope.
BTW, my TA05 IFS-R came with white springs (w/red dots on the bottom). We are very fortunate to have an indoor asphalt track (almost pool table flat) with high grip. I will stick with the kit settings as you recommend.