Originally Posted by zacabrandy

Hi Danjoy,

I read Jun's droop measurement guide and whilst it would be accurate, it is a long way round to get your droop. I've found this to be the simplest way of measuring my droop and you can do it anywhere.

First set your arms to a "droop gauge" so they have equal travel. Do this without the shocks and bars attached. Then to make sure your arms travel equally with the bars attached, re-attach them and then adjust accordingly. Once you have done this, you shouldn't have to do it again at the meet, unless you cop a big hit or have the time to recheck it all. Then once happy, re-attach your shocks, replace you rims/tyres and set your ride height. From this point all you need to do to adjust is the following, so you could do the above at home, then at the track, even if you want to change droop, just do the following. With the car at rest, push down on the car evenly to settle, then measure from the board to the bottom of your chassis in the centre of either the rear or front. Then, lift the car until the wheels just lift off the board, then measure this the same way. The difference between your rest height and when the wheels lifted is your droop setting. Your wheels will always lift equal as you have pre set them via your guage earlier, all you do now is screw in or out the set screw and you can change droop on the fly.

Droop is as it say's, the droop in your suspension arms as the chassis rises. Some call it downstop.

It's not super accurate for those that need to be mm perfect, but it doesn't have to be, no human could tell if your droop was .5 of a mm out side to side, so it is commonly payed much to much attention, just make sure you have even travel and the tyres leave the board evenly. It is an important setting as it can make big changes to handling, but half a mm out is undetectable. This method allows you to quickly make changes to get sets ups and is accurate enough.

Cheers
Aaron