Guys: I appreciate the compliments, but the guy to ask about set-up is really davidl. He's been racing at least as long as I have, but as of late he's done FAR MORE testing than me. I can tell you quite a bit about history, and a bit about overall design, but I honestly have only one or two set-ups that I use. David has done considerable amounts of testing, and is a WEALTH of knowledge.
What I will do is list my setups for you guys, and give you the stuff I do know.
This info is for a Rev. 3, but with a little subtle tweaking would translate very well to a Carpetknife ver. 3.0 or up.
Front-end (Old Skool): Spring .020, caster 2 degree AE shim under the Arm postioned for negative caster, no camber shims of any type, on extremely high-bite tracks I run the Speedmerchant Old Skool arm braces............ If the car feels like it "dives" on the outside front during turn-in, I go up to a .022 spring, If it feels as if it won't "cut-in" during turn-in I'll drop to a .018. On virtually every track I've been to it's an .020 or .022 though.
Rear end: Tubes, med. Hydra Fluid (CK drivers try light Hydra fluid), side springs, generally blue(CK white). On tracks with a ton of extremely fast switch backs, I might go to an Orange with light Hydra or 100 wt. shock oil (CK drivers go with Blue springs and 100 to 80 wt. shock oil.) On tracks with TONS OF TRACTION, and open corners, I've been known to run White Springs (Red on a CK) and thick Hydra fluid. Shock: Speedmerchant Black spring, 80 wt. oil, if the track is bumpy I'll go down to a CRC copper spring and 60 to 70 wt. oil. If there are no bumps, and traction is really high I'll go to a CRC stiff silver and 100 wt. oil. I always run the batteries to the back in the Rev. 3.
If I forgot anything let me know.