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Thread: YOKOMO MR4-BX
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Old 12-26-2007, 05:55 PM
  #289  
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Originally Posted by Francis M.
I have extra electronics sitting around and want to get this Buggy, what do I need for tuning? Is the basic box set up a good starting point for most tracks? I'm planning on running the LRP TC spec with a mild mod in the 6.5 to 5.5 range. Also is there any tricks to building the Buggy. If it helps I am planning on running this buggy a Pegasus hobbies in Montclair CA... Sorry for the multiple questions but this will be my first offroad car in more than 15 years...
The Yokomo is a great car, probably the most durable 1/10th electric 4wd available.

For tuning, pretty much normal stuff like springs (I use associated), shock oil, shock pistons (I use Losi now). I doubt the kit setup will work at your track unless it is really smooth and high bite.

Here is a setup I have been running lately, it changed from what I posted a while ago. Mainly I went to Losi shock pistons and it made a huge difference. This feels like it would work on a variety of tracks, but I haven't had a chance to try yet.


Front: shocks inside tower-middle arm, silver Associated springs, #56 Losi pistons 35 wt losi oil, 0 limiting, Associated shock shafts, camber link inside/top on tower - standard ballstud on carrier o washers, carriers up (pin in bottom hole on carrier), carriers shimmed forward, o* toe, -1.5* camber, diff set pretty loose, ride height arms level

Rear: shocks second hole from inside on tower - inside/bottom arm, green Associated springs, #55 Losi pistons, 35wt losi oil, .138 limiting (associated shock shafts are longer 46.9mm), standard shock tower, camber link middle hole on camber plate - middle hole on hub 2 .030 washers, 1* hubs, hubs forward, arms back, 0 anti-squat shims, 3* rear pivot pointing up, -1.5* camber, rear diff fairly loose, ride height bones slightly above level

Drive train: Trinity 10x1 Shock 16x84 gearing, center one way about 75 locked, belts set fairly loose where they occasionaly skip.

As far as building the car, it goes together easily with no real issues. If you are racing on a dusty track look back through this thread for all the tips about sealing out the dirt. Shadow's diff covers are a great way to seal up the diffs. I race indoors on clay with little dust so I don't even bother.

Even though the car is very durable I have managed to break a few parts. Believe me they were all ones that SHOULD have broken. 2 front arms, 2 rear arms, one rear hinge pin (suggest getting an extra set cause I couldn't find a substitute), I have cracked both shock towers, but have continued to run them for over a month and lots more crashes, and they are fine.
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