I would take the first 2 tanks at slightly above idle speed. You usually have to do this to overcome the friction of break-in. Then the next 3 tanks you can run a higher idle speed and you may have to adjust the idle screw because it may high idle. From there on, you can run the car, but limit the throttle to about 30-50% in short blips for the next 2 tanks. Then run the next 2 tanks at 50-70% throttle max. Then the next 2 tanks about 70-80% throttle. Remember to keep an eye on temps. Try to maintain a 210-240 F temp. I keep glowplugs of different heat ranges around as the engine starts to break-in. You'll encounter that when then engine is getting close to fully breaking in, you'll have to lean it more and more to keep temps UP and good response. I personally like to run castor based oils during break-in. Castor smokes and gives you a good visual of how rich you're running. Most newer synthetics lubes don't give you that good blue smoke on accel, so the temp gun is more critical when you run these types of fuels. I'm old school and like to see the nice blue smoke plume on accel. Its nice to run the newer synthetics based lubed fuels for more power, but I'm not racing with a sponsorship behind me, so if I blow an engine, I don't have a sponsorship to give me an engine for free. Its out of my pocket. I good break-in fuel to use is 5-10% nitro with about 16-18 oil content. I run Omega 10% with castor based oil. It seems likes much to do, but the engine will last you much longer. Remember nitro is corrosive, so the higher content, the more you erode or wear the sleeve/piston. Try to look up Ron Paris's engine tips PDF. Its an older tip sheet, but its based on castor based fuels like Blue Thunder. One way to know when your full broke in is to remove the glowplug and rotate the engine. If you feel the piston gets stuck or feels scratchy when it gets closed to TDC, you still need to break-it in some more.