Originally Posted by
Takt
Tamiyaracer - you have me confused on how to setup the droop with the spacers. The way I read it, you set up the shocks, then make minor adjustments in droop ... but without taking apart the shocks again, how do you make the minor adjustments? How do you "tweak" the droop to fix the tweak? I don't understand.
Well you have to rebuild the shock every time you adjust droop.
As for tweak:
it is hard to type easy to show.
But in a touing car what I find is that even though you measure your droop and set it exactly you will find if you lift the front slowly you will not get the front tires to lift off of the table at the same time (usually) When you set the droop to the table (Dave Jun method) or you measure from the bottom of the chassis, I always continued to have problems and what I notice (with some help) was that if a car is balanced and weighted properly it will raise of the table squarely. meaning the tires come off exactly at the same time. in a mini that is very difficult. remember it is a molded chassis.
what I also notice if you raise the fron you might notice the rear sink as the weight transfers, you might also notice that the car will also sink further in one real corner than the other. adjust the springs so the rear of the car stays flat, then the front stil won't come off at the same time unless you space each shock indivudually. I know it is confusing, and I wish I could show youin person, maybe I will get a video camera some day and I can show that way.
But what I'm trying to comunicate is as weight transfers in the molded car it doesn't really work well if everything is set the same. the molded chassis is not square. I use the smae method on a TA05 when I have a chassis that is warped, and noticed a night and day difference in performance, cause the car acts square to the track, not to a set up board.