If the anti-roll bar is tweaked on glass... that is, to be sure the two pivot points held down by the screws/washers are on the glass as are both ends of the swaybar... then the bar is "square". If you then make sure the links length are equal (blue ballstuds)... both from the arm to the bar... and from the link mount on the bar to the bar pivot point... then with the rest of the chassis being square through design, then there would be no need to check for "drop" from one side to the next. 1/10 is just like building a bar setup on a 1/1 car. The ability to tweak a setup with anti-roll bars is nil in comparison to a 1/8th twist on a single shock collar with a white spring under it. This is especially true of a thin anti-roll bar... that honestly has little effect when compared to the largest anti-roll bar available for the car.
Yes i went to 45wt with a #3 piston in the front... i wanted a bit more anti-dive control w/o having to do it in the hingepins. It also lets the shock slowly extend (when compared to a #2 piston) when adding power off the corner... giving me more on-power steering w/o using less droop (i.e. 5 to say 6). In theory you can make a #3 40wt feel like #2 50wt on the bench... or static damping, but the #3 piston will always have more control over the oil. It will pack up faster than the #2 ever will. Stabbing the brakes will seem more confidence inspiring... and the car can feel alot smoother in transitions... if you stay on your line. Its all related to shock shaft speed and actual shock extension. If you are on a track that allows little shock travel... then a #3 piston can be used... but if the car is always "busy" and the shocks have to extend and move alot to get the car to work... then a #3 piston can be a hindrance. Again... preference is key. As far as DPink-DPink/Or tires go... the smaller they get the "harder" they get. Any foam is like that actually. The durometer reading goes up with less rubber... simply because there is less rubber. You will notice a difference in the car the smaller the tires get. Sadly, they are really good around 2.25... which is after the majority of the life of the tire is gone. So as they get smaller you may notice the need for a few small changes to the setup. Im glad Jaco reduced tire prices!! Just in time for the winter races. I still wish we did rubber tire racing on a club level here in the US. I guess hobby shops like selling foams too much.
Whats the general consensus of speedos everyone is running? I know you are limited if you are running brushless.
- DaveW