tie rod/turnbuckle placement: how's everyone running their links on the 6.6 or rb6 for that matter? Please describe experience and plus/minus. It gets tedious trying out a ton of combos. For me, I drive the Kit setup which has the shorter front link positioned on the outer hole on the front shock tower. I feel the steering was much more precise and controlled with the shorter link. The middle hole for me felt like the buggy had a combo of a lot of roll with a lot of steering which felt erratic. Felt like I was waiting for the buggy to react and when it rolled it was abrupt and erratic...if that makes sense. I also see a lot of older setups like tebo's where the rear link is long and on the outside of the hub on the rear wheel hub carrier. Don't see that frequently with other buggies. This buggy is great but has such aggressive steering I find there are a lot of changes on other buggies don't translate on this buggy. For example I would think the short links up front would be too aggressive and hard to control. Counter-intuitively just the opposite
I've copied this info from the FredSwain tune with camber links thread, which originally references an old RC car action article. As fred goes on to point out it's not a perfect answer but it is helpful to explain the general effect of camber link length.
In general, a short camber link increases camber gain (the amount of camber the tire experiences through suspension compression), and produce more vehicle rotation entering a turn and more traction coming out of the turn. As the vehicle’s weight transfers and the suspension compresses in a corner, the increased camber angle of the tire will increase lateral thrust generated by holding more camber in the heavily loaded outside tire. The tire will have less rubber on the road and more cornering capacity when you add camber gain.
The opposite is true for a longer camber link. Lengthen the camber link by moving to the outer hole on the hub or inner hole on the shock tower, and this will decrease camber gain, which can make the car feel “lazier” and less reactive, while giving the car a more stable feel. Longer camber links are sometimes used on high-traction tracks to prevent traction rolling.
Formula: Camber link --
Short camber link =
+ Camber gain /---\ =
More vehicle rotation entering turns // More traction out of turn.
Long camber link =
- Camber gain \---/ =
“Lazier” Feeling – More stability
@JAE: I would suggest playing with the spacers under the ball stud first before changing links as it's much less tedious. As grip increases I often move the front shock tower ball stud lower (removing spacers) Takes away some turn in, and makes it a little less responsive. Essentially less twitchy when grip is high (slicks)