Originally Posted by Les Vegetables

If you want to raise the inner ball studs, put the shims of the desired thickness under the plate where it mounts to the diff housing. I know I'm a genius right? If you go with a shim that is more than 1mm, make sure to use screws that are longer by the same amount as the thickness of the shims (the stock screws are 10mm so if you go to a 2mm shim use 12mm screws). I didn't like how the inner ball cups interfered with the plate at full suspension compression if you run the inner hole on the plate so I raised my plate up by 2mm, and added a 2mm shim under the inner ball stud. This gives the ball cup clearance without having to grind away material from the plate or cup.

Also as Gertsch posted you can make roll center adjustments with the hinge pin mounts too.

As for making an adjustment to both the front and the rear of the car. It depends. All adjustments are to change the balance of the car. Sometimes an adjustment may fix one thing, but create another issue. If you have little idea what adjustments do, run the car, make A SINGLE change, then run it immediately again to feel the difference that one change made. I've been in the hobby for 25+ years, I know what changes do what. If my car is that far off, I can usually change several things at once, and get the car to be much better.



While changing which hole the hinge pin goes through on the hub will change roll center, it will also change the ride height, which if he resets (you should always check ride height and camber after any change) will change how much droop his car has, which will effect weight transfer. Also, what if his hinge pin is already in the upper hole?