OK, just finished converting one of two TC6.2's I have. I'm going to wait to do the second until I see if I like the first. Little bit of a pain, but very doable by an average person. Here are some notes....
1) If you have DCV's, you'll have to dremel out the inside of the 4 degree hard TC5 C-Hub (ASC31557). Otherwise, the front mod is pretty simple. The TC5 Hard Front Arm (ASC31203) drops right in. I left the stock sway bars from the TC6.2 in place. I used a 2mm spacer in the front of the arm (on the inside hinge pin) and 1 mm behind the arm.
2) The rear was a little harder. One thing I noticed that nobody mentioned was the outside pin (hub to a-arm) is too long. I ended up buying TC4 hinge pins (ASC3878). They are slightly smaller in diameter and are the correct length. So I didn't have to drill out the TC4 rear arm (ASC31009) for the hub pin, but I still had to drill the Yokomo Hub to 3/32". I also had to buy some 2-56 x 1/8" Button Head screws (ASC9645) for the hub pin hold down. The ones for the TC6.2 are too large. I also drilled out the hinge pin holes for the long hinge pin at the chassis plate. I used a number 31 drill bit (.120"), just make one pass or the hole will be too large.
3. The bearings and crush washer fit perfectly into the Yokomo BD7 Hub. By the way, there are two Yokomo Hubs, the YOKBD-415R and then a lightweight one, YOKBD-415RG. The RG is only .1 grams lighter, but seems to be a stronger plastic, so I went with those.
4. The rear sway bars are a little more hassle. First I got the Yokomo sway bar rod ends (YOKZC-207S) and the short Yokomo drop links/turn buckles (YOKSD-TB16). Second, you have to drill a new .098" hole in the front of the TC4 arm (ASC31009) for a new ball joint (YOKZC-206SHS). Don't go too deep or you will drill through the inside gusset, no need for that. The new ball joint is to hook the sway bar up to the arm. The last thing you will notice, if you keep with the TC6.2 sway bar system, you'll need to go out and get some music wire and cut some 2.3" long sway bars, the stock bars are not long enough to reach the new hook up location. I got out my spring book and calculated the spring rate of the stock .035" wire. Since you have to go to a longer wire to hook everything up, if you stick with .035" the spring rate will be too low. I ended up using .047" with 2" of active length and it's the same as the .035" wire that had 1.4" of active length. However, since the new hook up location is a little further away from the inside hinge pin, the effective spring rate is a little more than before. I may try .039" wire on the rear bar just to see how it works.
5. You also have to drill a new hole into the TC4 rear arms for the droop screws. In order to not make the arm too weak, I went with a smaller 3mm x 8mm grub screw for the droop screw. The new hole is .098" in diameter for the 3mm screw.
6. The rear arm requires 5mm spacers in front of the arm, I used two 2.5mm spacers from Yeah Racing, part no. YA-0396LB. Then you use 10mm of spacers in the rear, I used three 3mm spacers along with one 1mm spacer. But four 2.5 mm spacers would have worked. You can also buy an assortment of blue spacers from Yeah Racing, YA-0390LB.
7. For the rear, I used 3 dots to the outside for the rear mounts and 2 dots to the outside for the front of the rear arm mounts. The reason is I wanted 3 degrees of toe in and with 3 dots front and rear, I was only getting 2.5 degrees. On the front, I stuck with the stock single dots front and rear. I may go back and go with 2 dots to the inside depending on Steve and Randy's recommendation.
That's it, hope that helps people.
Last edited by glennhl; 01-17-2016 at 06:10 PM.