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Old 01-11-2016, 07:38 PM
  #2421  
Steve Weiss
The Evicerator
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 4,161
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Originally Posted by glennhl
OK, I'm in the middle of the TC4/TC5 arm mod and I have some questions. I am using TC5 front arms with the TC5 C-hub. I also have DCV's and they would not clear the TC5 C-hub. I took a dremel to bevel out some material to make it clear. Is this normal?

Also, I went and bought a number 40 drill to open up the outer pin holes on the rear TC4 arms and Yokomo Hubs. That should be pretty close as the pin is .097" as the number 40 is .098". I also got a number 32 bit (.116") for the inner pin holes as pin measures .117". I'm going to set up the parts on a good drill press to make sure I get the holes good and square (even with original holes).

As far as the new holes I have to drill in the TC4 arms, I will put in a .098" hole on the front of the TC4 arm for the sway bar link. I will also drill a new hole for the droop screw, but here's my main question. Should I use the same droop screws from the TC6.2 rear arms? Seems really big for the small area I have to drill the hole. Or should I go with a smaller set screw? And if so, what size should I get. Not sure I have any here. So the second question, where is the best place to buy some smaller set screws that are pretty long?

Thanks,
Glenn

Hi Glenn,

Regarding the TC5 castor block, yes it is completely normal to have to remove material from them to allow the DCJ its full range of motion... Generally opening up that hole to 10 mm and beveling the inside edges does the trick.

Regarding the droop screw hole for the rear arms, we wound up using long 3 mm grub screws for droop adjustment to conserve arm arm material in the TC4 arms.

I want to say 3x8 mm work? Any brand that has them should work.

Last edited by Steve Weiss; 01-11-2016 at 08:02 PM. Reason: incorrect contraction
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